Rear wheel removal Jota

Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond

Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond

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Location
Cotwolds
a few questions before I get to replace both tyres

Does the rear caliper have to come off to remove the rear wheel for tyre change ?

Anything else to come off

Looks a tight fit to get an allen key in without compressing the suspension to remove the caliper but it must be possible

On the Marzoch forks what is the bolt for that goes front back in each fork end ?   

Thanks for advice
 
Leave the caliper on the carrier and just wiggle it past the left shock as you slide the wheel out.
Almost impossible to remove these 2 Allen screws holding it on to the carrier.
The axle should clear the silencer on a Jota.
On the RGS for example you have to remove a silencer.
The chain should be taken off the sprocket and left hanging off the lower right shock bolt for safekeeping.
The wheel and sprocket carrier can then be removed and wiggled past the mudguard and numberplate.
 
I need some packing under the centre stand to get the wheel past the rear guard.25mm or so.Dont know if this is typical.Mine has some mods
 
Thanks Grant I assume when the bolt on the carrier is loosened and the axle is removed - you can move that carrier about to get the wheel past

Cheers Vince -The bike will be raised on a stand of some type - down the tyre bay

Dumb question - its an endless chain by the look of it ? so I assume I can hook this up as you say 

and that bolt through the front forks on each side - seems to do nothing except stooping the forks legs from spreading at the bottom ?
 
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond said:
Thanks Grant I assume when the bolt on the carrier is loosened and the axle is removed - you can move that carrier about to get the wheel past

Cheers Vince -The bike will be raised on a stand of some type - down the tyre bay

Dumb question - its an endless chain by the look of it ? so I assume I can hook this up as you say 

and that bolt through the front forks on each side - seems to do nothing except stooping the forks legs from spreading at the bottom ?
Click to expand...
When I take mine off (which I just did again last week) take axle out,  loosen torque arm, pull caliper & arm off disc and move it away into space in front of shock over swingarm. (Mine is a Series 2 with rh brake so plenty of brake line to allow movement.) Sprocket carrier can then be wiggled out of wheel and rested on ground without disturbing chain. Wheel can then be taken out past left of mudguard. All done on standard centre stand. Replace in reverse  - all easy and 10 min job.
Now, replacing the tyre that's a whole different story......................... 
 
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond said:
On the Marzoch forks what is the bolt for that goes front back in each fork end ?   
Click to expand...

They're pinch bolts that clamp onto the axle. The axle is retained in place by the axle nut, so why the pinch bolts? A lot of other breeds of forks don't have them.

The axle is a slight clearance fit in the fork legs so it's easy to slide in and out by hand. Tightening the pinch bolts removes the radial clearance and makes the connection between fork sliders and axle more rigid. It also makes the system more fail-safe. A kind of "belt and braces" design.

Nip up the axle nut firmly to clamp all the bearings and spacers together (remove any axial clearance) then tighten the fork pinch bolts to remove radial clearance. Do a final tighten of the axle nut and you're good do go.

Having said that, I forgot to tighten mine up once. They rattled out and I lost them. I didn't notice any difference in handling.
 
Long ago, is a far distant galaxy I left the pub and started up the 1200.
Went to ride off but the end result was no drive, and a lot of things exiting the rear wheel area.
Turns out someone had nicked one of my rear axle nuts and the chain driving caused the cush rubbers to spray out the back of the bike.
I gathered them all up and refitted them, then took the nut off the front wheel spindle and used that on the rear axle.
The fork pinch bolts held the front axle in place to allow me the 15 mile drive back home.
 
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond said:
a few questions before I get to replace both tyres

Does the rear caliper have to come off to remove the rear wheel for tyre change ?

Anything else to come off

Looks a tight fit to get an allen key in without compressing the suspension to remove the caliper but it must be possible

On the Marzoch forks what is the bolt for that goes front back in each fork end ?   

Thanks for advice
Click to expand...

Adam,

If you want to come with me to Tyre Link Tamworth, we can take the wheels off there and they will fit the new Tyres. I've been using them for years as they do a great job and in the time they are fitting the tyres I get to check my brake pads and clean the swing arm etc..All the tools are there and they give a good deal especially if you buy two tyres together.

I always have a laugh there too as they know how to take the mickey and provide tea and coffee so long as I make it !

Up the Fosse..A5 to Tamworth..nice ride out..Give me a ring if that suits you ..07875 299281  I'm free tomorrow and next week ..

cheers

joe
 
Grant said:
Long ago, is a far distant galaxy I left the pub and started up the 1200.
Went to ride off but the end result was no drive, and a lot of things exiting the rear wheel area.
Turns out someone had nicked one of my rear axle nuts and the chain driving caused the cush rubbers to spray out the back of the bike.
I gathered them all up and refitted them, then took the nut off the front wheel spindle and used that on the rear axle.
The fork pinch bolts held the front axle in place to allow me the 15 mile drive back home.
Click to expand...

I bet you pinched a few buttons off the seat that night Grant  :o
 
I just didn't like being the Laverda spare parts department for some other dude.
It was all cool and it didn't stop my 'progress' on the way home.
 
Not a nice feeling when someone uses you as a spare parts department. I once had someone nick the master cylinder cap off my CB 750. I used a boot lace to tie a bit of plastic bag over it, which got me home. I now carry gaffer tape - fixes a multitude of missing parts!

I remember when I was a kid and my dad went to back the car out of the garage. As he was getting into the car he noticed something unusual - there were no wheels! Someone had slunk into the garage during the night and removed them. The car was left sitting on lumps of firewood.
 
The whole family was on a trip once,we were heading 600ks in the night to relatives and about 100ks in the car broke down.The towy took the family to a petrol station and my Dad went home for the other car.Ne got back 2 hours later to find some prick had stolen the battery out of the broken down car.That was between 10pm and midnight up the back of Kurrajong with nobody around.Theres fuckwitts everywhere
 
The pinch bolts anr not belt and braces on the Laverda. If you look and the front axil assembly carfuly you will see that the axel flotes free throught the first fork leg then the land on the axil pulls up against the speedo drive the speedo drive pulls up on wheel bearing through the compression tube in center of wheel other wheel bearing then spacer (size of space sets wheel in center of forks) spacer pulls up on inner saide of fork leg. Nut on out side of fork leg pulls this all together.
The fork leg you first went through is still free to float along the axil. Bounce front wheel to nutrilise slider on fork tube.DO UP PINCH BOLTS, as this is the only thing stoping the first leg moving along the axil.

For people that have reversed the calipers by turning the forks around as the wheel is still the same and speedo drive on the original side now on the axil nut side it is now seting the position of wheel in forks. It is not the sams thickness as the spacer you need to shim to get wheel back in the center.

Jugs
 
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