RGA Starter Clutch

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Retroman

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Can anyone advice how 'freely' the starter clutch should spin on an RGA before I put my rebuilt starter back in and if necessary how hard is it to take the bugger out and service it etc.
Looked on historic threads regarding this but can't find anything.
Mine moves around in situ with some drag with moderate finger pressure but does n't spin around of its own accord?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
I have never tried to spin one with my finger. Spinning it won't tell you the condition of the plungers and springs. It is a one way clutch, using springs behind small plungers, the plungers grasp a hub but in one direction only.

If the starter needed to be rebuilt, I would expect the starter clutch likely does as well. They are simple to service. I would obtain a rebuild kit, which is just new springs and new rollers. The reason I would just rebuild the starter clutch is that if it is not working properly it will destroy your freshly rebuilt starter.

In any event, the only way to determine the condition of the starter clutch is to take it apart, if you take it apart you might as well install new springs and plungers. In terms of level of difficulty, I would say relatively low, other than one issue, which is putting it back on.. Take it out, take it apart, clean it, grease up the new plungers and springs and install, put it back together and put it back in. The only real "trick" to the process is putting the starter clutch back on over the hub, the plungers will be sticking out too far to allow the unit to slide back on, you need to press it against the hub firmly, then slightly rotate the assembly to cause the plungers to retract enough to slide onto the hub. Others have posted in great detail about using wire or zip loc ties to force the plungers to retract, which has never been necessary for me.

Paul LeClair
 
It should only turn one way if it is turning both ways then it is defiantly shot.

As per Pauls advice it is a good idea to check it even if it doesnt appear shot as if one of the cover plate screws for the rollers is loose and decides that it want to work itself out then destroying the new starter may be the least of your issues if it happens at speed.

There are a lot of articles about it just that the search function is a bit tricky sometimes.
Best to go to the search tab as apposed to the search at the top right of the page.
In the search http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php?action=search
put in what you are lookin for eg: Starter clutch RGS
I get 14 pages worth
here is one of them which should help with some links off it.
http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,92213.msg313038.html#msg313038


Also try searching under starter freewheel as well as starter clutch.

Over on JLO's site he has some overviews of the starter clutch, it covers most models but the same basic's apply

http://www.laverdamania.net/fichetech20gb.htm
 
Grateful thanks guys for the advice.

I bought new springs and rollers recently from Motalia thinking they fitted in the starter itself!!

You can now guage my level of expertise once you have stopped laughing.

Now I know where they go I will consult a copy of a workshop manual I have been gifted and commence surgery on the next rainy day.

Its a no brainer given that Aiden at Cox Engineering has found that the coils were burnt out and the full rewind and service is costing?160.00.

Do I need an special tools to prize it off or will a normal puller suffice.

Thanks again.
 
Buy a new alternator cover gasket so you can replace it when you the cover off... not critical but if its been there for a while better to freshen up with a new one.
Doable without special tools however a compressor makes life easier and light work.
A couple of Allen keys, a 32mm socket and a M16 bolt ( to use as a puller to get the alternator off...
( at a pinch you could use one of your axles ( we did one of these on the side of the road once with the basic tool kit and a big shifter ( crescent for the yanks, adjustable for the poms )
Once you have it off then should check the hardening of the ramp as on RGS's in particular for some reason they seem to suffer and get chewed out... then comes the issue of obtaining a replacement, hard to find but can be found.
Oh and remember the flywheel nut is a leftie...  :D
 
Brett said:
Buy a new alternator cover gasket so you can replace it when you the cover off... not critical but if its been there for a while better to freshen up with a new one.
Doable without special tools however a compressor makes life easier and light work.
A couple of Allen keys, a 32mm socket and a M16 bolt ( to use as a puller to get the alternator off...
( at a pinch you could use one of your axles ( we did one of these on the side of the road once with the basic tool kit and a big shifter ( crescent for the yanks, adjustable for the poms )
Once you have it off then should check the hardening of the ramp as on RGS's in particular for some reason they seem to suffer and get chewed out... then comes the issue of obtaining a replacement, hard to find but can be found.
Oh and remember the flywheel nut is a leftie...  :D
Click to expand...

For Mk II/120? normal RH thread if the bolt head is embossed in any way.  If head is plain, it will be LH.  Puller is M16x1.5mm.

Starter clutches suffer most when battery condition falls below par.  Good quality Mk II/120? clutch internals available from OCT.  However, due to a slight production glitch, it is necessary to send in the rotor and clutch housing to fit the ramp thingy correctly.

piet
 
Many thanks Guys.
I will be operating this coming weekend as last weekend's weather was too good to miss and this weekend looks a wash out.


 
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