Screw cap

Hello JezB,

since you want to do an oil change, you can do something good for your 3CL and install an external oil filter.

It cleans the oil better and the oil change is only necessary every 5000 km. And it's not expensive, you just need the holder and an oil filter.

I have attached two pictures for your information.

Kind regards, Rüdiger
 

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Schwabenteufel said:
Hello JezB,

since you want to do an oil change, you can do something good for your 3CL and install an external oil filter.

It cleans the oil better and the oil change is only necessary every 5000 km. And it's not expensive, you just need the holder and an oil filter.

I have attached two pictures for your information.

Kind regards, Rüdiger
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That oil filter thread is another can of worms.
Paul
 
Graham said:
Some know the price of everything and the value of nothing. Ignore the Job’s Comforter’s and enjoy your new machine. In my view the 3CL is a good choice with its softer A11 cams and lower compression, 3CL= ‘thinking man’s Jota!
My 3CL was orange when I got it and I got sick of folk thinking that it was a Jota. I painted it green and now the tyre kicker’s leave me alone. If anyone asks me what the difference between my machine and a Jota is I say “£5000” . I would imagine that you bought the bike with your heart and not your head so you can safely ignore any negative remarks! -Ride it like you stole it 🏍️
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Exactly Graham.
 
I started the original thread on this bike in the hope that no one would pay daft money for the bike. The only original part seems to be the frame and that looks badly repaired. If you are happy with your purchase that's great and you didn't pay a lot for it but whoever paid £11500 was robbed and that is what we try to help people avoid.
The engine number must have been changed to con prospective buyers, there is no other reason to change it.
 
pf1 said:
I started the original thread on this bike in the hope that no one would pay daft money for the bike. The only original part seems to be the frame and that looks badly repaired. If you are happy with your purchase that's great and you didn't pay a lot for it but whoever paid £11500 was robbed and that is what we try to help people avoid.
The engine number must have been changed to con prospective buyers, there is no other reason to change it.
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I couldn't agree more. like I said, I paid £5500 for it and I'm delighted with it. Started on the button and an initial nip round the block revealed nothing untoward. Moto Strada sold the bike.
 

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welcome to the mad house and congratulations on buying your bike at the right price. I have one piece of advice for you, change the oil, as you have suggested, to do this properly it meanns dropping the exhaust and removing the strainer from the underside of the crankcase (the door for which has 3 unequally spaced bolts), clean it in petrol until it sings. put everything back and (of course) fill with any good quality 20/50 preferably suitable for diesels, then do NO MORE than 150 miles and repeat the process, if you see any fluff on the strainer gauze, you have done youreself a favour and discovered that your choice of new oil is not compatible with the unknown brand that is in it, and prevented cam seizures, when you fill with the second amount of fresh oil you will have nothing to worry about (oil wise) if you dont see any fluff after the 150 mile change, then you have proved that all is well with your new oil, as it will be in every case that you do a second change, (does that equate to waste? I think not) then stick with that brand, but if you decide on a change, repeat the process.
CLEM
250,000 kilometre 1200TS and no external oil filter! owned by me for 43 years
 
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CLEMTOG said:
welcome to the mad house and congratulations on buying your bike at the right price. I have one piece of advice for you, change the oil, as you have suggested, to do this properly it meanns dropping the exhaust and removing the strainer from the underside of the crankcase (the door for which has 3 unequally spaced bolts), clean it in petrol until it sings. put everything back and (of course) fill with any good quality 20/50 preferably suitable for diesels, the do NO MORE than 150 miles and repeat the process, if you see any fluff on the strainer gauze, you have done youreself a favour and discovered that your choice of new oil is not compatible with the unknown brand that is in it, and prevented cam seizures, when you fill with the second amount of fresh oil you will have nothing to worry about (oil wise) if you dont see any fluff after the 150 mile change, then you have proved that all is well with your new oil, as it will be in every case that you do a second change, (does that equate to waste? I think not) then stick with that brand, but if you decide on a change, repeat the process.
CLEM
250,000 kilometre 1200TS and no external oil cooler! owned by me for 43 years
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Wildo Clem - that makes perfect sense.
 
JezB said:
Wildo Clem - that makes perfect sense.
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Clem you are the only person who has ever mentioned this mysterious 'fluff' so far as I am aware...I am no chemist, but dont think it can be caused simply by different oils. Maybe someone with more knowledge will come along...hey, an oil thread!😁. What was the consensus on whether to drain the primary drive cover..I lost the plot with the thread on that...
 
Oil. JASO MA or JASO MA2 testing specification. This spec oil covers wet clutch and shared gearbox lubrication. Turbo deisel capability oil is a good idea, IF,,,,,,you can find a 20W-50 viscosity,,,,,there is no such thing available in my region of the world.
 
Just to clarify,Clem’s mysterious fluff has been witnessed by me on an RGS that passéd through my hands a few years ago. Cylinder no1 had grey alloy paste around the exhaust cam bearing indicating a lack of oil. The oil strainer was completely blocked with fluff and also had metal particles in it.
Tom
 
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