Series 1 1200 gear selector adjustment

A

andre

Senior member
Wise men (and women?)
In an effort to improve the gearshift adjustment on my 1200, I see there is 12 thou (approx) 'slop' at the steel 'tag' that sticks out at right angle where it goes between the spring. (a picture would help...). The spring is held apart where its legs go over the adjuster and its a little too wide where the steel tag goes thru it.

So, I thought I should bend the spring leg a little to eliminate the 12 thou slop.

Is that the correct 'quick fix'?

It's funny, but the 1200 gearshift action is nowhere as smooth as that on my SFC1000.

Regards,
Andre
 
Hi Andre you will always have some clearance between the spring on the adjusting eccentric screw and the plate that sits between the spring as I believe the eccentric screw is a larger diameter, I am not sure if anyone on here has machined a smaller diameter screw to minimise this clearance but the important thing you can do is centre the forks between the pins by using the eccentric screw.
Your 1200 selector will never be as good as your SFC1K as the gear selector mechanism is completely different.
M.
 
Using a different rubber on the selector( yes I know :D) ie fom a BSA Goldsar can improve the selection a lot.

Shaun
 
???
What rubber is used on the selector?
The only one I know of is on the gear lever. Why would changing that make it easier?
 
I meant the lever sorry,read it on a ride report that a larger rubber eased the selection compared to original,I can understand it --ergonomically better leverage

Shaun
 
Hi Andre,
Laverda themselves advised in their workshop manuals that the spring can be bent to improve the gear selection,so it can be done. However because it's not easy to bend the spring without stressing the part which normally breaks anyway i.e. the bend where the 'leg' leaves the coil I prefer to add a little thickness to the bottom of the tag which sits between the legs (by welding). However I usually find that adding about 1mm is about right and as 1mm is c.40thou and you say you only have 12 thou slop I'm not sure if you have the same problem. Even with a fatter tang there's normally a mm or so free play.
I've only had experience of 2 or 3 gear selection problems but in each case the problem has been that with the eccentric adjusted fully up the selector pawl is not lifted enough for the top hook to sit over the pin in the selector drum (particularly 4th gear down to 3rd)-hence welding a small bead along the bottom of the tag to give the extra lift needed. I have pictures somewhere so if you think they would help I'll find them and post here.
 
Keith machined the eccentric screw on my Jota (though wasn't having problems, as it happens), but it seems even better now, so this must be a known solution...Keith?
Nick7
 
Anything that helps here is ok... either bending the spring slightly, laying a thin layer of weld or re-working the eccentric.  Just depends on the facilities to hand, the outcome should be the same, ie, a decent shifting 'box. 

There may be slight differences in the springs available today, so there's no real telling that the fix will be permanent.  Break the present spring and you might need to start all over again. :D

piet
 
i also did the bending fix years ago, never had a problem with shifting since.

before starting, think over which leg to bend.
In the end you want enough range to adjust in both directions.

Another possible cure might be:
take some material off from the dog, also resulting in a 4-point contact.

Roland
 
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