SF Set up issues

if the primary chain adjustment is too tight then the primary chain area will make a lot of noise
be careful on the adjustment when you put everything back together

good luck

 
  I Loctite the "Jesus" nut and fit one of my larger O.D tab washers too. I recommend "Fu-----ng Tight" too. I warm up the clutch drum when I remove the rivets to avoid any risk of splitting the cush rubber pillars. I prefer 7mm bolts and use a spring washer under heads - but, as Piet has pointed out, this will require some relieving of the g/box mainshaft support struts. I've got the 7mm bolts if you need them. - regards - Phil
 
phil37 said:
  I Loctite the "Jesus" nut and fit one of my larger O.D tab washers too. I recommend "Fu-----ng Tight" too. I warm up the clutch drum when I remove the rivets to avoid any risk of splitting the cush rubber pillars. I prefer 7mm bolts and use a spring washer under heads - but, as Piet has pointed out, this will require some relieving of the g/box mainshaft support struts. I've got the 7mm bolts if you need them. - regards - Phil
Click to expand...

I have adopted following method;

After grinding off the rivet heads, I bore them down the centre (or as close as I can get) with a 4mm drill to a depth of 15-18mm to relieve the rivet of a bit of its tension.  A slight tap down the hole with a 4mm drift gets the cover plate free, the rivets are then driven back from the inside of the drum.  I then remove the remains of the rivets standing proud of the pillars and gently tap them out.  Rate of split pillars has dropped dramatically!

I have found quite a few cracks in the pillars even BEFORE driving out the rivets.  Obviously the factory often squashed the rivets too far upon installation, splitting the pillars in the progress.

piet
 
Spring on tensionner is OK.
0,2 mm endfloat on clutch is OK but if you have a shim to hand you could take that up.
See if you can rock that big sprocket on the clutch from side to side. If so, rubber dampers are shot.
Like wise, see if you can diametraly rock the clutch, it runs on a bronze bush which wears rapidly, however, quite a bit of play is tolerable.
Make sure the crank end nut is nice and tight.

Do you know what sort of bearing is on the LH end of the crank, ball or roller?
Paul
 
Thanks for all your help on this point.
There is just perceptible "wobble" on the clutch drum, but it's difficult to isolate it from the end float on the shaft.
The visible main bearing is a roller so I'm assuming it's been replaced.
At this stage - seeing no potential catastrophes - I'm minded to put the cover back on and cover a few miles to see how it develops.  Replacing the clutch cush drives sounds a fairly major job that I may have to come to, but maybe not just yet.

Once again - great support guys.  I'm learning a lot!

Derek
 
Glawster said:
Thanks for all your help on this point.
There is just perceptible "wobble" on the clutch drum, but it's difficult to isolate it from the end float on the shaft.
The visible main bearing is a roller so I'm assuming it's been replaced.
At this stage - seeing no potential catastrophes - I'm minded to put the cover back on and cover a few miles to see how it develops.  Replacing the clutch cush drives sounds a fairly major job that I may have to come to, but maybe not just yet.

Once again - great support guys.  I'm learning a lot!

Derek
Click to expand...

Not necessarily.

If it is located by a visible half-ring in the lower crankcase, it may be standard fitment.  Lots of crankcases out there that take either ball or roller bearing.

piet
 
Just to update on this topic...
I decided to put back the primary cover without stripping the clutch and do a few miles to see how things are.
Last weekend I covered about 70 miles.  Still think the engine is noisy particularly just off tickover, but hey ho - let's continue for now.

The adjustment on the gearshift is now correct in that I can select all gears reliably.  The problem I have is that the gearchange is so heavy that it's very difficult to make upward changes.  Downshifts are no problem as of course it's easy to put more pressure on the lever under your foot.
Selecting gears stationary by hand requires around the same force upward or downard.
The increase in pressure is only noticeable when the spring tension has been taken up and the tumbler is turning.
With the outer cover off, the tumber appeared to move freely.
I didn't take off the inner cover to reveal the sprocket, but I do have a new gasket for this so might have a look.
If i understand correctly there are no locating dowels on the inner cover?
Should I try slackening off the inner cover only, break the gasket seal and try to see if the gearshift lightens up?
I'm open to suggestions as the bike is pretty much unrideable as it it.
Thanks,
Derek
 
Nothing to lose by slackening the cover back a tad. Relieve tension on outer cover screws and careful tap with soft hammer prob won't cause a leak. With a std long gear lever it should be very light to snick between gears. You do have a drop of oil on the shaft through the outer cover?, if assembled dry it may take time to get oil up there. Also if the footpeg and lever are adjusted high you may be working against it on up shift.
 
Thanks,
Actually I've taken off the inner cover as well and have then re-assembled the whole thing.  I dont' think it's an issue of the inner cover as the tumbler  moves smoothly, but the gear coming from within the crankcases does not - I'm now more concerned that it's something within the crankcases which is making selection stiff.  Is this possible?
I went to Bristol today (not on the Laverda) and met a couple of the ILOC guys there.  There was a similar early twin belonging to a guy from Bristol and the gear lever action on his was much lighter.  However, he did have the long gear lever and I have the short one.  I guess the first thing to do is to try a long lever to see if this make it workable.
Anyone have one they want to sell?
Derek
 
hi
having problems setting up gear selector on my SF2
found this thread
everything looks as is
with the selector,
however i seem to adjust the can (starting from a visual centre then working up to limit, then back down gradually to limit)
i cant get it to work right
marks are aligned and spring apprears right
adjusting it i would expect it to travel up OR down if not both, but i cant get it to shift either way
any hints would be very welcome
spring is clear of arms on selector, ie not fouling on adjuster cam
also
the bible shows 3 washers (2 large 1 small) on the outer rod of selector arm,
mine only has 2 and both look " made"
what are the specs of the 3 washers?

any hints much appreciated
ive got a fair way from the box of bits but this has got me stumped
 

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earthcore said:
any hints much appreciated
ive got a fair way from the box of bits but this has got me stumped
Click to expand...
You'll need to rock the rear wheel backward and forward taking up the lash while trying to select either up or down. No way you'll select a gear if you have the wheel static. Is the small cover off? If not are you sure the spring isn't getting between the eccentric bolt and the selector limit plate?
 
small cover off so yes can see spring
cheers for hint re rocking back wheel,
and re suspension, thats another story :-)
but for now until i can sort the cerianis theres some fake ohlins on it ive used on a few bikes now :-)
any hints on the washers? is the centre one on the selector fulcrum a washer/o-ring or what?
cheers again
keep you posted
 
I customise my selector washers anyway. I run one under the spring to be absolutely sure the spring can't foul the arm/eccentric screw. I then fit the little cover without a gasket to make sure there will be no binding of the selector pin-wheel when it's fitted with the gasket. The splined selector for the gear lever can be checked once it's all tightened with the gasket in place - should be some discernible play in and out.
 
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