SF1 rear wheel

Just look at the drawings. All rear Laverda brakes until and including SF1 show one ring, only the SF2 shows 2 rings.

Marnix
 

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chrisk said:
Can't help you cause mine isn't standard, but one of those magnetic laser chain line gizzmo's would be of help.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Profi-Laser-CAT-Laser-Chain-alignment-tool-Line-laser/302298211383?hash=item466260a437:g:YDYAAOSwjqVZAsME
I did mine by straight edge.
Click to expand...
Got one last week, Chris. I paid $71 with shipping. It's not magnetic, but doesn't matter. It's been very helpful, mainly confirming my straight edge calcs. The only downside is that the laser on the measuring plane exits around 4mm from the surface being checked, so need to take that into account.

Noone has chipped in with the measurement I wanted to double check, but I've done some more in-depth calcs on chainline if anyone's interested.

The middle 6mm stud at the rear of the crankcases is dead centre of the motor. The chainline from centre using that as a ref is 85-86mm (some variation for the bearing ring groove, but I'm calling it 86mm if you set up the output shaft to clear the inside case.

Swingarm OLD (a bicycle tech term to 'over locknut dimension' ... the width of the wheel assembly or inside edge of the swingarm or chain adjusters) ... is 234mm with adjusters in place (240mm without). Centre point of the OLD is 117mm, subtract the chainline of 86mm and you get 31mm from drive side chain adjuster to sprocket mounting face on cush drive.

This is the exact measurement I got from an SF3 cush drive I have here and that's luckily what I calculated my custom rear wheel(a modified Triumph 900 TT Legend disc) to be. My Kwaka Z1000 disc wheel that's been on for nearly 40 years was set at 29mm. Not sure if it is a reason, but I have always had what I felt was unreasonably rapid chain wear.

Checking frame alignment between front and rear wheels is VERY tricky without a jig; the rear chainline has to be perfectly aligned with the gearbox to ensure the wheel is pointing dead ahead, then front and rear wheels have to be checked for straight tracking. Then factors like are the outer edges of rims/tyres exactly true (ie no runout).

To ensure the swingarm is straight, wiith the axle bolted up I ran the laser from a flat edge at the 117mm centre line (allowing for the extra 4mm!) and it looked spot-on in ref to the centre stud on the cases when cush sprocket face was dead true to the gearbox sprocket face on the output shaft

BTW, my SF1 never had washers inside the spacer on the rear wheel and I am positive it was std. Apologies for the long thread - was a late night in the workshop playing with this stuff!
 
Did the same a few years back with the one and only local Computrack bloke, expensive way to find mine was straight. Yes, doing this manually is very very far from easy. Seems the bloke who invented the Computrack System used to race Laverdas for the Melbourne based Laverda distributor and has a hand in GP2 frames. Some bloke called Greg McDonald.
http://gmd-computrack.com/about-company-profile.html
 
Vince said:
Seems the bloke who invented the Computrack System used to race Laverdas for the Melbourne based Laverda distributor and has a hand in GP2 frames. Some bloke called Greg McDonald.
http://gmd-computrack.com/about-company-profile.html
Click to expand...

Ausbean will probably know him then.
 
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