Shindengen 538-12 connections

[carlitox33]

My 1981 1200?s rectifier seems to have gone south, getting only yellowish lights, duck sounding horns and 11,70 volts at the battery when running (idle or higher RPM, no difference). Funny enough, my red "gen" lamp will light at idle, but turn off as soon as I rev it up (however polimeter shows virtually no change)

I?ve found an old Shindengen SH-538 12 lying in the garage, and I?m willing to give it a try. I don?t care about the red light.

Despite searching for 2 days, I cannot figure out how to connect the Shindengen thingy. All I?ve found was at the LaverdaMania?s web page, this:

The Shindengen It has 1 connector with 3 yellow cables and one connector with 4 (?) red and green cables.

Can someone help with the wiring?

TIA.

C.

 

[Dellortoman]

The SH538 has 7 wires coming out of it. 3 x yellow, 2 x red and 2 x green (or black)

The yellow wires connect to the AC outputs from the alternator - 3 phases.
The red wires go to the battery positive. Either at the battery or somewhere else like the starter relay.
The green or black wires go to battery negative or a good earth somewhere.

There is no separate voltage sensing connection. It gets its DC volts control input via the red wires.

If you're wondering why the red and green wires are doubled up. I presume its simply to carry a reasonably high current (probably around 30A max). One thick wire is less flexible and possibly a little harder to thread through a wiring loom. They both do the same thing.

 

[Rob]

The preferred connection for your Bosch alternator is as shown on John Wilson's diagram for two phase four pulse. Together with Cam's explanation of colours, you should be able to get the Shindengen wired up.

For anyone keen toast retain the red Gen light, Ignitech can supply a suitable reg/rect for Bosch alternator equipped machines. The part number is R82

 

[Dellortoman]

Hi Rob

Do you have any technical information on Ignitech's R82 rectifier/regulator? All I can find on the Ignitech website is a price for it.

Cheers,
Cam

 

[Rob]

Hi Cam
Yes I do, but will have to wait until I get back to the UK Dec 14th. That's unless Clem can post a copy of Ignitech's drawing for me.

 

[Dellortoman]

Thanks Rob. No rush. I'm just curious. If it's a 3 phase RR with a charge light output, it'll be the only one on the market as far as I'm aware.

 

[carlitox33]

Thank you! I?ll give it a try with your feedback. You guys rock.

Cheers

Carlos

 

[Rob]

Thanks Rob. No rush. I'm just curious. If it's a 3 phase RR with a charge light output, it'll be the only one on the market as far as I'm aware.

It's not! Only suitable for single phase / 2 pole PM applications.

 

[Dellortoman]

It's not! Only suitable for single phase / 2 pole PM applications.

Damn! I'm still waiting for someone to make a 3 phase one.

 

[carlitox33]

OK. Here we go. My shendingen 538 has 5 cables, 2-red (&white), 2-green, 1 black. Looks like this:

https://subefotos.com/ver/?28919ceec25e0c85661bfb79b9abdda7o.jpg





]https://subefotos.com/ver/?28919ceec25e0c85661bfb79b9abdda7o.jpg]


I?m looking into my loom, and this is what I see




I see the yellow, and yellow black.

Yellow/green is earth.

What is black? Where should it go? (in the Shindegenden)
What is red/blue? Where should it go (In the Shindegenden)

Sorry, but my electrickery abilities are extremely limited.

Thank you!

 

[Grant]

Red/blue is for the generator warning light on your revcounter and can be ignored.

 

[carlitox33]

Thank you Grant. Which should the black in the shidengen go to? (to ignition switch +12 on John?s diagram)

C.

 

[carlitox33]

Ok. I just tried the shindengen connections, and it doesn?t work very well.
I am getting only up to 13,9 volts at 5000 rpm. I tried again the original RR, and get similar results.

I guess my generator is toast? Tried to check it, but if I connect the voltmeter to the yellow & yellow and black cables I get nothing.

Any ideas from here?

 

[Dellortoman]

Voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5, so 13.9V is quite OK. The size (Amp hours, not dimensions) and condition of the battery will affect the voltage that you measure at the battery terminals, as will any voltage drop in the wiring.

To test alternator output at the yellow wires, you need to put your meter on an AC Volts scale. DC Volts should read nothing. I wouldn't bother though. If you're getting 13.9V at the battery, your alternator is working fine.

 

[carlitox33]

Thank you. I?m going to replace most lamps for Led lamps, and try to avoid cruising below 4000 rpm. That should make it fun!

Thanks again.

 

[Rob]

13.9v may be ok, but it is insufficient to fully recharge a lead acid battery. So keep it topped off with an occasional session on a charger.

 

[carlitox33]

Is there anything I can do to get a higher output from the alternator?

 

[Paul Marx]

Is there anything I can do to get a higher output from the alternator?

Adapt one from another make of motorcycle.

Or belt driven car alternator.

Paul