Slave cylinder lubricating

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scotman

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I have some rubber grease and 5.1 fluid. Have read here the grease should go under the rubber dust seal. Anywhere else - like inside the piston rear (no spring on mine)? Should the whole piston surface be lubed too, and if so with what?

And for the new o-ring have read to lubricate it beforehand ? rubber grease or soak it in 5.1 for a while?

Thanks - trying to do a belt and braces job.
 
Hi Scotman - use the rubber grease to lube the lower part of the piston and bore that doesn't come into contact with the brake fluid.  Idea is to stop the alloy bore corroding.  You can put a thin smear over the o-ring, but I prefer to wipe a bit of brake fluid on it before fitting.  No need to soak - it won't (or shouldn't!) absorb anything.  Don't get carried away with the grease - you don't want it contaminating the hydraulics.  Quite a few folk have blocked m/cyl bleed holes through being too generous (tho' problems with clutch operation shouldn't occur).
 
Thanks Brad, I put the slave cylinder back together lubed that way and the clutch cover back on. Looks like it may not be the problem: there's fluid in the master cylinder but it won't create pressure even after pumping for ages. Bleeding doesn't push through fluid either. And I can engage 1st or 3rd without resistance.

Does this lead to me a master cylinder repair kit anyone? I always thought that was on the cards too... Ta, Charlie
 
Hmm - I always found that the clutch primed itself with fluid running out after opening the bleed nipple on my RGS!  You probably didn't want to hear that...  ::)

Guess you've got a big air lock somewhere; possibly an obstructed / collapsed flexible rubber hose bore ....or a blocked master cylinder.  You could try elevating the clutch slave cover above the m/cyl to see if that persuades the air bubbles up to the highest point.  Perhaps less messy to do that by tying the clutch lever to the handlebar grip and leaving overnight.

Otherwise, check the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir is clean and the fine drilling into the piston bore is clear of crud - very easy to miss - see pic in this thread.  Apparently can take a lot of prodding to shift the blockage in some cases.
http://laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,40234.0.html

Good luck
 
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