Starter Clutch Stuck Peg

[SandPebbles]

Yesterday I turned my attention to overhauling the starter clutch on my '74 3C as I get this bike back together ever
so slowly.  While I found a few springs broken, I also encountered two pegs that were stuck in their bores.  One finally
came out with a combination of lubricant, gentle tapping and prodding the top of the peg.  The spring behind this peg
was naturally broken.  The second peg has become more of a challenge.  It will not budge.  It does rock back in forth in
bore (think a worn piston rocking in cylinder).  I tried a little local heat with no success.  I have read at least two
forum members have encounter this problem.  Any tricks or insights to solve this problem would be appreciated.

Next question involves the thin metal cover over the starter clutch.  Mine is still riveted on.  I believe it was Reggie3cl
who has found this item in pieces upon opening the cover.  Is it common practice to drill out the rivets and replace with
nuts and bolts? Tap the hole and use a screw?  Suggestions on hardware to use? 
The rivets for my starter clutch cover do appear to be tight...

 

[phil37]

Have a look at this thread - the layout of triple s/m clutch internals is virtually the same - you may need rivets - can't remember if I managed to squeeze in screws last time I did one.- regards - Phil

http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,90276.msg283281.html#msg283281

 

[markQLD]

can be drilled into through the back of the peg housing.
the trick is how good a guesstimate ya do with the start point and angle. 

& good to know a bloke with a mill & how to use it.  thanks Redax. 
we used a 2.5 mm drill. i wouldn't go any bigger in drill size.
recently, i had to push out 2 stuck pegs on me SeFFie.  worked out good.
cheers,  Mark

 

[redax5]

only works out good when you have a bloke from da canefields doing the marking out

 

[sfcpiet]

Marks/Reds solution is one option if the piston thingy doesn't eventually drop out by itself.  Otherwise, the clutch can be disassembled by drilling out the rivets, removing the tin cover, removing the key at "PM" and drifting the inner a few degrees radially.  This allows you to drift the inner part out through the rivet bores.  The inner has through-bores, allowing the pistons to be pushed out with a 1mm punch.

Although screws can be used, rivets are a lot better.  The correct ones will thicken and positively locate the sprag inner when bashed tight.  I actually don't hammer them, I press them flat on the hydraulic press, gives a nice factory-looking finish.  If cared for, you won't need to open it up for decades to come, so ease of disassembly doesn't really count...

piet

 

[CLEMTOG]

stab a welding rod on the end of the piston and get it to "stick" then use this as a lever (once shortened)to wiggle the thing out of its bore., clean everything up with a rifle bore cleaning brush from a gunshop (bent 90 degrees) so as to polish the insides of the clutch bores and then replace springs, plungers and rollers, lubricate liberally.
CLEM

 

[SandPebbles]

Gentlemen, thanks for all the replies and proven ideas.  My next step may follow Clem's route, but without a
welder on hand, I have thought about using a dab of epoxy or liquid metal.  If that does not work, my next step will be
Piet's advice and remove the tin cover and attack the problem from that direction.  Last resort will be to drill as per
Mark...just must remember to mark out the starting point and angle before my evening Gin & tonic...

Busy week at work so may not get to it till Friday...I will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again,

Keith

 

[SandPebbles]

While I was cleaning up the start clutch assembly, I slide one of the removed pegs back into a bore without the spring
just to see how far it can sit below the hole.  This peg also hung up and did not slide out easily.  Therefore I decided it best
to remove the tin cover and thoroughly inspect and clean the bores.  I drilled out the rivets without any issues.  I did have to tap
out the remains after removing the flared heads.  After removing the cover, I noticed two cracks in the inner ring.  The square key
also tapped out easily enough and it was easy to evenly pry out the inner ring.  But this is what came out.

How available is this item?  I checked on-line with Andy Wagner's site and he has some (a bit pricey).  I read elsewhere on the
forum that Wolfgang is away on vacation.  Anyone know when he will return?  Anyway, the disassembly wasn't too bad and when I am done I will feel confident the starter clutch will be reliable....

Oh, I did get the original peg out, but had to drill a small hole in the outer surface of the ring behind the bore.  An exercise
in futility as I will replace the ring anyway.

 

[rowdypat]

Was advised to remove riveted cover when replacing pegs and springs on my 750 starter clutch.
Just as well, as it was cracked through in two places.
Not sure what they sell for, but picked up one a good one through club connections with new springs/rods for $200

 

[sfcpiet]

How available is this item?  I checked on-line with Andy Wagner's site and he has some (a bit pricey).  I read elsewhere on the
forum that Wolfgang is away on vacation.  Anyone know when he will return?  Anyway, the disassembly wasn't too bad and when I am done I will feel confident the starter clutch will be reliable....

All necessary bits are available off the shelf from OCT.    octeam@gmx.de

piet