Stripped thread in primary cover - RGS

[Chappo]

Hello all, I have stripped the thread in the primary cover on my RGS, where the primary chain tensioner bolt goes. When I took the bolt out, one turn of thread was on it. I thought that doesn't look good, and when I put it back, most of the remaining thread came away.

What would be my best option for repair? A Timesert? There is a place close to me that is a distributor for Timeserts, if I took the bolt to them, I expect they would be able to determine the pitch of the thread and sort me out with a kit.

I've fitted helicoils before, and there are links to instruction videos on the distributors website for fitting Timeserts, so I feel confident enough to have a crack at it myself.

Other than trying to buy another primary cover, what other option do I have?

Any advice and tips would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[phil37]

  Timeserts or helicoils should do OK although thread isn't as deep as i'd like. A bespoke flanged bush of maybe 14mm fine thread by the 10*1.5mm thread that the adjuster is may be a better option. New chaincase is not cheap! - Regards - Phil

 

[2622]

What would be my best option for repair? A Timesert? There is a place close to me that is a distributor for Timeserts, if I took the bolt to them, I expect they would be able to determine the pitch of the thread and sort me out with a kit.

I've fitted helicoils before, and there are links to instruction videos on the distributors website for fitting Timeserts, so I feel confident enough to have a crack at it myself.

Other than trying to buy another primary cover, what other option do I have?

Any advice and tips would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Best Option is;
Take the cover off send it to Red and get him to sort it ....that way you know it will be spot on !

To get a helicoil kit ( yuk I hate them ) would be cheaper than a time sert kit but still hard to find either the correct length so you would have to bugger around.

Or if you are stuck then PM me and maybe I can pick it up as am up that way next Monday then will sort it for ya

 

[Chappo]

Thanks Phil and Brett.

I've had a look at the Cross Tools website (the Timesert distributor near me) and they have quite a few different depth kits for M10 x 1.5. They list: 9.4, 11.0, 14.0, 20.0, 22.0, 24.5, 30.0 and 40.0.
http://www.crosstools.com.au/time-sert-thread-repair---helicoil-alternative.html#mfrsspecial

I haven't taken the cover off yet, to measure the depth of the hole, but I reckon one of the above lengths will do the job.

I just watched this video, and it seems fairly straight forward.
http://www.crosstools.com.au/video---how-a-time-sert-works---how-you-install-one.html

It seems having a brass bush/insert made up and threaded in (is that what you mean Phil?) would be similar to a Timesert. Are there any advantages over using a brass insert to a Timesert?

The motor has been out of the frame for about four weeks, the frame is away having the head stock mod/repair done. I drained the oil and removed the adjuster bolt, before I removed the motor, because it looked like it would be easier to lift the motor across onto a stand with the adjuster bolt out.

Last night, I decided to put oil back in while waiting for the frame to come back (it's taking longer than I thought) so I could turn it over, to keep things lubed.

Now I have this problem to sort out before I can get some oil back in it.

 

[stevepm2011]

Red can Timesert it, recommended!
You can do it yourself, but the kit is expensive and not justified if doing only one...
Regards,
Steve

 

[sfcpiet]

The problem with fitting a larger flanged threaded bush is that the lock nut will most probably be tightened against it.  When un-doing the lock nut, you risk loosening the bush.  Even if the bush is Loctited in place, care would be required if the lock nut is to be disturbed on a warm motor.  Loctite loses its locking properties with heat.  A bolt won't un-thread itself, but it is quite easy to break the adhesion and remove when hot.

A slender Timesert insert fits beneath the case surface, the lock nut is tightened against the case proper, no danger of having the insert coming loose.

piet

 

[2622]

Which ever way you choose to go please make sure that you keep the tap straight and parallel to the original threads.
Oh and good luck with it. 

 

[phil37]

It seems having a brass bush/insert made up and threaded in (is that what you mean Phil?) would be similar to a Timesert. Are there any advantages over using a brass insert to a Timesert?

  Yes but no cost if you have the facilities - can use any metal -  done a few in mild or stainless steel - never had one turn itself out - always Loctite them after a thorough de-grease. - My own own one in my 750 I did in 1986 and it's still there! - Regards - Phil

 

[Chappo]

After weighing up finding someone local, or sending the part away for repair, against buying a Time Sert kit from eBay for $145.13 (AUD, delivered), I went with the eBay option. It took about one week for the kit to get here from the US.

The hole depth is 16mm, so a standard 14mm Time Sert kit was the go. (The next size up insert is 20mm).

I set up my Black and Decker milling machine. I put the bolt in the hole to give me a look at getting the hole upright.

The drill did not go through cleanly, it kept snagging. I started off with a slow drill speed, tried a bit faster, but still it kept catching. After it caught about four or five times, I was through.

The counter boring and tapping was straight forward, and putting in the insert.

The hardest part of the job was running a die along the bolt, to clean the thread up. It got real tight about a third of the way along. I had to lock a couple of nuts on, and work it back and forth a lot to get it through.

It is all good now, and I don?t have any oil leaks? so far.