This bloody bike. 1976 3CE

Hi, just an update, I bought an ignition back plate with pick-ups and coils from Peder and have got the bike running but it is now hunting. I’ve had the carbs off so many times and cleaned them out during this problem solving I find it hard to believe the idle jets are blocked, I’ll have to look for a leek in the inlet side of things. The bike runs cone filters.

Maybe also do with an alternator cover as the one I’ve got needs welding..
 
Right, so it now ticks over pretty well but if I open the throttle it pops, farts, and shoots flames out the back Hope to put a vid clip here.. Air screws 2.5 all round. Slides as equal as I can get - under the adjusting screw and carb arm the sprung damper is fully squashed down.

When I rode it when I first got it it had a hole in the delivery around 4 to 5,000 rpm.

The video file says it is too large.View attachment IMG_3772.mov
 
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Right, so it now ticks over pretty well but if I open the throttle it pops, farts, and shoots flames out the back Hope to put a vid clip here.. Air screws 2.5 all round. Slides as equal as I can get - under the adjusting screw and carb arm the sprung damper is fully squashed down.

When I rode it when I first got it it had a hole in the delivery around 4 to 5,000 rpm.

The video file says it is too large.
Hi Robin

I may have missed something in this thread, but have you tried the default setting; air screws 1 1/2 (original carburetors)?
Br Jesper
 
Hi Robin

I may have missed something in this thread, but have you tried the default setting; air screws 1 1/2 (original carburetors)?
Br Jesper
Hi Jasper, thanks for that. The bike has individual cone air filters, 32 Dellorto and supposedly Jota cams but I have not yet looked under the cam box. If it is “tuned” the carbs may well have been adjusted to 2.5 turns out but I will try with 1.5 turns tomorrow.
 
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Hi Robin. forget about the idle mixture screws - a turn or two will make bugger all difference to the issues you're having here - that is fine tuning - what you need is fault finding. Looking and listening I'd say ignition, but eliminate ANY air leaks between carbs and motor first.
 
Hi Jasper, thanks for that. The bike has individual cone air filters, 32 Dellorto and supposedly Jota cams but I have not yet looked under the cam box. If it is “tuned” the carbs may well have been adjusted to 2.5 turns out but I will try with 1.5 turns tomorrow.
Hi Robin,
" I have not yet looked under the cam box"
I'd check valve clearance and also TDC in relation to the cams before doing anything else with the carbs.
Andy
 
Hi Robin,
" I have not yet looked under the cam box"
I'd check valve clearance and also TDC in relation to the cams before doing anything else with the carbs.
Andy
The bike did run okish at first but things broke brown on a ride on 13 July and it has not run properly since. Everything electrical has been replaced.I don’t think it would be cam timing but the reference to looking under the cam box was to see if it did have Jota cams (S4?).
 
SOME GOOD NEWS. Jiri from Ignitech sent me a new program yesterday and having loaded it on the bike it does run better for sure. No flames.
If I’m lucky with the weather I might get a test ride on Saturday afternoon after MotoGP.
I think any fine tuning will be down to jet sizes and needle position.
 

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That´s certainly good news Robin. Also make sure you run either resistor plugs or resistor caps. Ignitech ignitions don´t like it if you run neither and misfires will occur.
 
AAAHHHGGG! THIS BLOODY BIKE.
I thought I had got it sorted with the replacement ignition backing plate replacing my pick ups and coils and a new program down loaded from Ignitech. It ran in the garage really well.
So, after MotoGP I took it out for a run and it was as bad as ever. Popping and farting and I was lucky to nurse it home.

Monday I will send another video to Ignitech and see what they say about the replacement pickups. If they feel they have failed also I will buy new pickups from them and modify the backing plate to fit them. Whilst I am at it I will swop out the small coils for a big one from the original backing plate just in case the Ignitech control unit needs more volts..

Really getting fed up with this.
 
AAAHHHGGG! THIS BLOODY BIKE.
I thought I had got it sorted with the replacement ignition backing plate replacing my pick ups and coils and a new program down loaded from Ignitech. It ran in the garage really well.
So, after MotoGP I took it out for a run and it was as bad as ever. Popping and farting and I was lucky to nurse it home.

Monday I will send another video to Ignitech and see what they say about the replacement pickups. If they feel they have failed also I will buy new pickups from them and modify the backing plate to fit them. Whilst I am at it I will swop out the small coils for a big one from the original backing plate just in case the Ignitech control unit needs more volts..

Really getting fed up with this.
I have no experience with Ignitech, but if the motor works one day but not the next, I would suspect a bad electrical connection somewhere.

Have experienced something similar. It turned out that too thick cables had been used between the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The cables therefore could not get far enough into the ignition coils and ensure a good connection.

The problem was more significant when I opened the throttle and the vibrations became more apparent.
 
Hang in there Robin. It's going to be something really simple. And you will take it for a spin and come back with a huge grin on your dial.

Red's Ignitech setups seem to be bulletproof. Maybe you should think about his Hall effect setup, new, better coils (Nology) ... dunno. Keith might have Red's setups in stock. I assume you're not running resistor plugs (BR8ES) plugs with those NGK resistor caps? Must only use one resistive segment in your ignition HV circuitry.

I've fitted high output Plasma coils made for FBG in NZ and changed to resistor plugs and high quality insulated leads and straight non-resistor plug caps from same supplier - I noticed an immediate improvement in high RPM running even though the previous setup was working OK. I never thought ignition components could make such a noticeable difference. This was after dumping points for the Ignitech HE TCI-P4.
 
HooBloodyRay! It’s running in the garage, too cold here to go out.

First set of pickups were faulty so I bought a second set from Peder and first start it seemed to run well. Next day - pop fart bang.
Not having it.
Much back and forth chuntering with Jiri at Ignitech and a reloading of the program they tell me I have the same fault with the second set of pickups as I had with the first set. Tried to repair the wiring on the second set and it didn’t work. So too cold to go into the garage, Wednesday saw me rewiring the OE set I got with the bike.
Got the bifold doors fixed this morning and refitted the ignition plate this afternoon.. it runs.
Before I button it up do I tempt fate and fit the second charging coil to the existing plate - or would that be a bridge too far?View attachment IMG_3786.mov
 
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Sounds OK under no load ... fingers crossed. Dodgy ignition parts, Robin!! If that has been the cause all along aren't you tempted to just renew the whole package?
 
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