Torque specs.

W

wdietz186

Hero member
Location
Va. USA
Finally I am able to start assembling the engine of my free 3CL. Having the Green book and armed with an Italian only parts book I am lacking torque values for the starter clutch nut,ign. flywheel, and primary sprocket nut.Any info beyond snug, tight,  and effing tight would earn my eternal gratitude.Also what is the preferred method of locking the crank to achieve the effin' spec. without twisting the crank out of true? The barrels are off and I was thinking of just blocking the crank cheek adjacent the side being tightened or is a bar through the small ends against the case a better solution?
Thanks
Bill
 
According to the Manuale di Riparazione:

Crankshaft primary drive nut ? 10 m.kg (100 Nm)
Alternator rotor nut ? 10 m.kg (N.B. Left-hand thread!)
For the starter clutch nut, the manual simply says ?Lock the crankshaft with tool 61808033 and tighten the nut firmly? Note that this is also a left-hand thread.

If you?re curious about tool 61808033, it?s a collar with an internal taper the same as the alternator rotor, but with a long handle welded to it. It fits onto the shaft in exactly the same manner as the alternator rotor, but the handle allows you to hold the crankshaft while doing the nut up. I?d be wary of locking the crank at the primary drive side and applying torque to the ignition side because there?s a small risk of twisting the built-up crank out of phase.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Thanks Cam, I had too much other stuff to attend to yesterday otherwise I'd have responded sooner.I found an old Ducati primary gear with a taper that may work [Damaged from a spectaular blowup,crankpin sheared at 9000rpm blew pri cover off and 60ft.away] with a lever welded to it.If not, with the cyls.being off I can block the outer crank wheel and tighten it.

Bill
 
Bill,

You can wait till you've assembled the cylinders and then use a rattle gun to tighten the buggers.  Check your rattle gun specs before you go at the nuts at max. setting.... :o  Have relied on this method for ages, never have had anything loosen in service!

piet
 
You'd need a deep socket on the rattle gun to reach the starter clutch nut. There's about 70mm of crankshaft sticking out (that's a guess - haven't actually neasured it)

Cheers,
Cam
 
Yeah, to get it off I cut a 36mm socket in half and welded a piece of Ceriani 38mm fork tube between the halves. Impact gunned it off but I prefer to torque the big  important nuts by hand. I got the right side nut torqued and went to install the ign. rotor,found that I evidently have an early crankshaft which doesn't have the indent for the setscrew.Some careful eyeball/straightedge and Dremel work has resulted in a divot within a degree or two of the old cranks location.Only took about 3 beers worth of effort.On to the other side and lining up the clutch plates without a tool.

Thanks to all
Bill
 
wdietz186 said:
Yeah, to get it off I cut a 36mm socket in half and welded a piece of Ceriani 38mm fork tube between the halves.
Click to expand...

Something like this........ only I used a bit of H-D stanchion.
 

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wdietz186 said:
Piet, That would explain why it vibrates and leaks oil when you use it! Plus you have to deal with the attitude.
Click to expand...

Bill,

The donor bike is dead..... no attitude left! :D

piet
 
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