Triple Primary sprocket nut

Laverdalothar

Hero member
Location
Germany
Gents, just to be sure I am not mixing something up:

The nut on the crank, primary side of the engine, that holds the primary drive sprocket is a standard clockwise thread, right? So - to unscrew it, I need to go counter-clockwise I suppose?

2nd Question: found 56 - 59 ft lbs /75- 80Nm as the torque setting - correct?

thanks
 
There are 2 x left hand thread nuts on the right hand side of a series 1 180.
 
Thanks to both of you and no worry, Ernesto: can't count the situations you corrected me on 750 information, 'cause I'm a triple guy...  :D (who obviously does not know/remember everything anymore these days even on those bikes...  :-[ )
 
It's easy to remember. If the shaft turns anticlockwise, thread is clockwise and vice versa.
Imagine an anticlockwise thread on a shaft turning anticlockwise, shaft rotation will be trying to unscrew nut.
Paul
 
I recall hearing that series 2 alternator bolts can be right hand thread OR left hand thread.
 
Grant said:
I recall hearing that series 2 alternator bolts can be right hand thread OR left hand thread.

If the bolt head is embossed in any way, it is standard RH thread.  If the bolt head is plain machined, it is LH thread.  Apparently no LH threaded bolts available from their normal suppliers, so the factory had to make their own.

Because it is only a M10 thread and the bolt head quite small, it is less effected by inertia than a large nut.  That way they got away with a RH thread.  Wise to apply a drop of Loctite anyway.

piet
 
Folks - you could really have told me to be carefull to remove the little "half-moon" insert that holds the ignition rotor in place... I rattled the crank nut off with a 32mm deep socket on the rattle gun and almost ruined the thread...  :o

Now, the distance piece that goes into the larger bearing in the primary cover, sitting on the crank, does not come off easily... do I need a puller for that or is it unusual that it sits that tight (e.g.: did I ruin something?)  ???
 
Laverdalothar said:
Folks - you could really have told me to be carefull to remove the little "half-moon" insert that holds the ignition rotor in place... I rattled the crank nut off with a 32mm deep socket on the rattle gun and almost ruined the thread...  :o

Now, the distance piece that goes into the larger bearing in the primary cover, sitting on the crank, does not come off easily... do I need a puller for that or is it unusual that it sits that tight (e.g.: did I ruin something?)  ???

You didn't ask... :D :D

Remove the key from the crank and then the primarycover.  The sealing spacer will come off with it.  If it is loose enough, pull it with a magnet.  No other chance without destroying the spacer.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Remove the key from the crank and then the primarycover.  The sealing spacer will come off with it.  If it is loose enough, pull it with a magnet.  No other chance without destroying the spacer.

piet

What a load of utter bullshit... :D  Guess the pain-killers are playing a bit of havoc, sorry.

The key needs to be removed, then the cover.  The sealing spacer will stay in place and will come off when the Jesus Nut is undone.  If it doesn't fall off completely, do up the nut a bit and pull the spacer with a 2-, 3-, or howmany arm puller of your choice.  Good idea to insert a small button head screw into the end of the crank to protect the internal thread.

piet
 
Rattle guns!....<Shakes head and wanders off>.....Great for tyre changing shops I guess.
 
Ernesto, that wasn't meant to serious, I am responsible myself, as I warned myself several times but simply did forget when the "I need to try my new rattle gun toy"-fever set in...  :-[ I think I stopped early enough to avoid serious issues, will see once I have everything come off.

looks like someone has kind of glued everything together, there was no chance to open the nut with anything else than the rattle gun, tried it with a blocking tool and a long lever before, the lever bent...  :o
 
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