I'm told from a very reliable source, kick starting a velocette is a 7 year course, 4 years of study, 3 years as an apprentice.
Does Woody still have his Velo?I'm told from a very reliable source, kick starting a velocette is a 7 year course, 4 years of study, 3 years as an apprentice.
yep, have been left standing in the air on the kick starter of my Norton a few times, and I'm on the wrong side of 100 kilos.My mothers sister married a Pommy bloke, he and his brother were both Triumph and Norton mad.
They had the knack of kick starting, the hard to start bikes, into life first kick.
The Commandos accompanying us started first kick.yep, have been left standing in the air on the kick starter of my Norton a few times, and I'm on the wrong side of 100 kilos.
Certainly a technique and proper timing.
the fork comes apart by unscrewing the chrome seal housing. I used penetrating oil, then considerable heat. When that did not work, then as I was re-chroming the housing anyway, put the fork leg in a vice and used a large chain wrench. I got a fork seal kit from a seller on eBay USA. I just saw your post. I probably shot photos of the process, I will see what I can find and then further respond. Happy to chat directly regarding any aspect of the Gilera rebuild. I replaced all engine bearings, used a VAPE 12 volt ignition and charging system with a home made wiring dirgram drawn by a forum member here, went with a modern Mikunio carb, adapted a piston, made my own push rods, and on and on........,Hello Chaps, I've just joined your forum, not because I have Laverda (unfortunately) but because Pauls thread appeared on a Google search for Gilera Sport 150, that I DO have. Its a recent acquisition apparently restored for show some years ago, I'm going through it and getting it ready for road registration.
Paul.... after reading these 40 pages, I noted that you replaced the fork seals, but I didn't find HOW you did it! I ground a tool from a 27mm socket to engage the three depressions in the spring cover/seal holder, but no joy there, the rings appear to be silver soldered into the end of the can. The old seals don't have a metal body and could be extracted, Replacements all seem to have a metal outer and won't therefore compress to refit. I ended up by boring out the end and fitting new seals with an extra nylon covering 'washer'....how did you do it!
Drive chain looks really tight, maybe that’s where your grunch is coming fromI've just got mine started after rewiring, new fork springs ,wheel bearings and tyres..... seems to run well, but when I took it for a road test, there's a horrendous racket coming from the engine, probably transmission, so now it's a full stripdown.