What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

After a mildly terrifying moment in torrential rain on my journey to Crediton in Devon, UK.
When I hit the brakes I swear I got faster.
Solid discs were in good condition with good pads but with that amount of water nothing happened except the car in front appeared to come at me all too quickly.
Rear brake applied and all was well. Phew!

Follow up.
Some weeks later, Malcolm Cox discs fitted with new pads.
Supplied very promptly and well packaged.
Now just awaiting time off work to bed in and test my new brakes.
 

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After a mildly terrifying moment in torrential rain on my journey to Crediton in Devon, UK.
When I hit the brakes I swear I got faster.
Solid discs were in good condition with good pads but with that amount of water nothing happened except the car in front appeared to come at me all too quickly.
Rear brake applied and all was well. Phew!

Follow up.
Some weeks later, Malcolm Cox discs fitted with new pads.
Supplied very promptly and well packaged.
Now just awaiting time off work to bed in and test my new brakes.
It’s comforting to do that kind of stuff when you’re still at the “near miss” stage!
 
After a mildly terrifying moment in torrential rain on my journey to Crediton in Devon, UK.
When I hit the brakes I swear I got faster.
Solid discs were in good condition with good pads but with that amount of water nothing happened except the car in front appeared to come at me all too quickly.
Rear brake applied and all was well. Phew!

Follow up.
Some weeks later, Malcolm Cox discs fitted with new pads.
Supplied very promptly and well packaged.
Now just awaiting time off work to bed in and test my new brakes.
Charley similar experiences, fitted Malcolm’s discs, carbon ceramic pads and a Hinckley Triumph master cylinder.Big difference..
 
Ref.your statement on rear brake, “rear brake applied and all was well”, my standard rear set up is crap !
When I bought the bike it had not been used enough to iron out a number of bugs. In my opinion.
One of those bugs was the rear brake arm and linkage.
As part of my new ownership maintenance routine I bled brakes and cleaned callipers and checked pads etc.
I also set up the linkage and brake arm to give correct actuation and pedal position for me.
This all made a tremendous difference. Could always be better but for my riding style and level of financial input it works just fine.
I've not changed the rear disc but may do so in the future, just so it matched the front two.
I could of course just drill the rear as I could have done the front but the new/modern material persuaded me to buy new for the front.
 
When I bought the bike it had not been used enough to iron out a number of bugs. In my opinion.
One of those bugs was the rear brake arm and linkage.
As part of my new ownership maintenance routine I bled brakes and cleaned callipers and checked pads etc.
I also set up the linkage and brake arm to give correct actuation and pedal position for me.
This all made a tremendous difference. Could always be better but for my riding style and level of financial input it works just fine.
I've not changed the rear disc but may do so in the future, just so it matched the front two.
I could of course just drill the rear as I could have done the front but the new/modern material persuaded me to buy new for the front.
Yep done all those things and use accordingly.
 
DNA filters fitted - arrived in Oz from Greece in around a week! No stock locally. SFQ was already breathing very nicely with the foam filters once I ditched the direct-to-carb-stack idea and fitted flex to the 'remote' intake area under the seat. Reckon these DNAs should be as free-breathing as can be had without resorting to no filters at all.

Last week I fitted super duper 0.5ohm coils that Fast Bikes Gear in NZ has manufactured by the people who make Nology's kit, with top notch leads, non-resistor plug caps and a switch to NGK resistor plugs (BR9ES). All traces of intermittent high-RPM misses are gone - combined with the improved breathing it's been a win-win. Back on the dyno soon.

Also checked laden and unladen sag figures; seem to be within acceptable range, just needed to add some preload to the rear Nitrons, which will quicken it up a little up front - 110-120mm front fork travel and 110mm rear wheel travel. Damping and spring rates to be checked and changed as nec. Snobs Creek-Jamieson run with the Vic club on Saddy ... should be a fun test track!
 

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Well yesterday, did a valve clearance check,
inlet .20 .20 .18
Ex. .23 .23 .21
Now all bang on .20 and .25.
Today's job is to fit the 520 sprockets and chain.
Hoping it will give me clearance with the rear tyre. The 150 tyre measures 162mm and with the 530 chain was in contact with the tyre.
 

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The countershaft sprocket was quite loose on the spline. The spline is showing quite abit of wear. Is there a solution to tightening the fit somehow without having to replace it. It was a good 2nd hand one I replaced the worn original about 15000 kays ago when I last had the gbox apart. The original had done 170000 kays where as this one lasted 15000.
What causes it to wear?
I remember along time ago I fitted a new sprocket that seemed too loose to me. Can understand a sloppy fit would cause wear but the last sprocket was an interference fit.
 
You might be right there Hooksie, I fitted that spline when I did the rebuild, Reds crank and Pistons.
She's definitely a goer
🏍💭🍻
Fitted a brand new 19T 530 cut down to 520 sprocket to the Q and was not happy that it's a loose fit on the spline. Just doesn't seem right to me. I'll be keeping a close watch on it. Much rather fit a new sprocket than split the cases and fit a new 5th gear output.
 
those gearbox sprockets have been made too tight by many suppliers for a long time, maybe a worn out broach in use?, I would bet you now have one that is too loose, not good it must "fit" just right, if it needs warming in boiling water to get it on, then that is just perfect.
CLEM
 
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