Wheel bearing spacer tip

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bob

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I'm probably teaching my granny to suck eggs here so apologies if this is old hat to some of you.

I changed the wheel bearings on the Atlas a couple of days ago and noticed that the bearing spacer has a couple of helpful grooves cut into one end presumably to provide a purchase for a drift. These grooves are probably commonplace nowadays in spacers but I must confess I've never come across them before. The make bearing removal very simple. If, like me, you've sometimes struggled to remove wheel bearings the next time you have your bearings out and the spacer on the bench it might be worth spending five doing this little mod to your spacer.


wheelbearingspacer_zps4395b702.jpg
 
I'd say that the grooves also aid to remove the bearings if the spacer has no side-way movement when in situ. You'd have a notch to insert a very slim (brass) drift sideways to drive out the bearing.

good post :D
 
Noticed something similar when changing my Aprilia RSV bearings. In practice, you only need 1 notch, as you can rotate the spacer and inner bearing around, this worked better for me than trying to relocate the punch into the other notch.
 
I think the 'Drift" is like a T, with one end longer that the other, long end in first, centre the T so it goes through other slot, grab hammer and belt the Bjesus out of it. That's why there's two slots. I used to do the same with two drilled holes, one was drilled on an angle, so the long end would slip in easier, similar pricipal.
 
Good tip Bob, only 2 days late as I just reassembled the front wheel with new bearings!! Will do the mod on the rear rim before reassembling though.
 
I haven't see that but I have seen a packer around the outer middle of the wheel spacer that    allows the
wheel spacer end to rock out of line with the bearings once the axle is out.Not having done a lot of these I thought that was a good idea to allow access to knock them out.
 
Sorry Vince, I don't understand, "a packer around the outer middle of the wheel spacer that allows the
wheel spacer end to rock out of line with the bearings once the axle is out" .......... please explain?
 
The packer,bit like an O ring, around the middle outside of the spacer makes the spacer rock a tiny bit like a see saw inside the hub after the axial is pulled.When it rocks out of the axial line slightly when the Axel is pulled you get assess to a shoulder on the back of the  wheel bearing.Don't know if this a typical detail but I found it clever
 
Thanks, but the problem is usually, that the bearings are forcing the spacer in situ (given that the bearings aren't totally fucked), a decent prise with a long rod/screwdriver can move it, out of the way enough to get a drift onto the inside edge of the bearing. Interesting.
 
I just finished replacing the bearings in both wheels and no way could you move the spacer enough to get any purchase. I had done them a dozen years ago or so but don't remember how I did it, although when I got them out this time it looks like I only did the rear wheel and cush drive last time.
Anyway, after searching this site tried the Rawl bolt solution and piece of piss - although front took a fair few goes and contsant tightening.
I could certainly see how a couple of grooves would help with drifting out.
 
The rawl bolt tip has got me out of trouble in the past. Nowadays I apply heat as a matter of course before trying to remove any bearing from an alloy casting and life has become much simpler! I think having a plumber's blowtorch in the armoury is as almost as important as having a decent vice.
 
bob said:
The rawl bolt tip has got me out of trouble in the past. Nowadays I apply heat as a matter of course before trying to remove any bearing from an alloy casting and life has become much simpler! I think having a plumber's blowtorch in the armoury is as almost as important as having a decent vice.
Click to expand...

Nothing like a good vice.
Paul
 
When replacing wheel bearings and you find it difficult getting purchase on the opposite bearing with your drift, give one bearing a good whack on the inner race towards the other bearing.  This should shift a bearing just enough to loosen up the spacer a bit and afford just that much extra needed space for the drift.  Don't be afraid to hit the bearing hard, after all, you're replacing them 'cos they're knackered, aren't you?

A hot air gun directed to the alloy imediately surrounding the bearing also helps loosening things up a bit.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
When replacing wheel bearings and you find it difficult getting purchase on the opposite bearing with your drift, give one bearing a good whack on the inner race towards the other bearing.  This should shift a bearing just enough to loosen up the spacer a bit and afford just that much extra needed space for the drift.  Don't be afraid to hit the bearing hard, after all, you're replacing them 'cos they're knackered, aren't you?

A hot air gun directed to the alloy imediately surrounding the bearing also helps loosening things up a bit.

piet
Click to expand...

That's a great tip, thanks. I've always tried to stay away fron the inner race, but you are right, it's being replaced so WTF?
 
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