750 SIDE PANEL SCREWS

Your 26xx S frame would have had m6 0.8 both sides based on the frames I have in same number series so apparently somebody already modified right side to accommodate an available later mounting bolt and probably best to drill and tap original left side to m7 1.0 and get matching bolts else you'll go crazy trying to match them up each time panels are taken off and get one cross threaded and have to do it all then - the snug rubber plugs behind the panels generally do keep the bolts with the panels when panels are taken off but Murphy says they'll get mixed up sometime.
Your option 2 assuming of course that it's OK not to be totally restored to original spec - I do hope you're not that far OCD :)
Yes on my GT I have a rubber washer between the screw head and the cover, on the backside of the cover I have a thick, almost a cork, rubber disk. So the screws never come out off the covers. In fact it takes quite a bit of effort to unthread the disk from the screw. I would do the same for the S. As for my level of OCD that depends on the phase of the moon. My previous work supervisor always called his OCD as CDO to put it in the correct order. ;)
 
IF, i'm making, it's just for europe, too complicated for me, the us, and australia, sorry guys.
 
We could make it worth his while, Iā€™ll have a set as well.
Doesn't matter how many he makes, he doesn't want to send outside EU.

Anyway, he's not the only bloke in the world with a lathe. It's a pretty simple job. I could make them, but I don't want to. Any engineering shop could do it.

If you don't wanna fork out big bucks to an engineering shop, you could just buy something like this on line:
 
Doesn't matter how many he makes, he doesn't want to send outside EU.

Anyway, he's not the only bloke in the world with a lathe. It's a pretty simple job. I could make them, but I don't want to. Any engineering shop could do it.

If you don't wanna fork out big bucks to an engineering shop, you could just buy something like this on line:

Yeah, but they have no joining nut:rolleyes:
 
I can't see a way around that problem Chris. Your bike is fucked. You may as well cut your losses and get out of motorcycling altogether. I'll give you $100 for what's left of your bike.
 
I've still got the pair I bought from your last batch Phil - not selling them! Although i could lend them to you Marty. Think I went M8 thread - M7x1 just too fine and easy to strip. And a breeze to tap out to M8.
 
you need a milling machine too.(y)
best for you is to do a series in australia, and share.
Not necessarily. I've cut slots in big flat head screws like that before using only the lathe. Did about 60 of them a couple of years ago for a bloke who was restoring an old wooden boat. He needed them to bolt the portholes in and they had to match the existing ones that he was able to salvage. Admittedly they were brass, but the same technique should work with any material if you take fine enough cuts. It's labour intensive, but if you're only doing a couple it's not too bad.

I did it by locking the chuck so it wouldn't turn and using multiple passes with a tool in the cross slide to cut the slots. The cutting tool was a piece of parting-off tool stock, ground to the width of the slot and mounted sideways in the tool post.
 
yeah but the slots are concaved
To mate with a 20 cent coin! I guess you could use an angle grinder and go in laterally to get the slotted curve with the screw in the chuck and locked. I have a jig that lets me mount the 100mm angle grinder onto the tool post so I can do simple grinds and cutoffs. Also use it to 'machine' custom rubber grommets.

But getting someone else to make them sounds bloody good to me!!
 
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