Odd Charging Question

Not only the early Laverdas, my RGS has the same set-up.
Guess whatever floats your boat, I've tried both configurations without any noticeable difference so decided to return to standard.
When I had recent trouble with my R/R I did some searches on here looking for possible other causes beside R/R failure. I cannot for the life of me find it now but I found a post from John Wilson who mentioned that having the wiring routed through the switch could cause voltage drop due to ageing wires/connections which could potentially also cause the R/R to allow overcharging of the battery. (At least I am sure he said something like thato_O)
Perhaps the extra circuit is not really necessary but doesn't cause any trouble till it does?!
 
Fit relays and forget running any current higher than an instrument bulb through your switches -0 definitely forget about running everything through the ignition switch.
 
I know I'm chirping in late here (and haven't read every post) however doesn't the 3rd +ve from the reg/rec only go straight to the ignition so that the european regs. for parking lights is followed?

Only wondering, I'd suggest that regardless of AC in (any no. of phases) (yellow) there is really only a need for one black or red (fused if you like to the lights etc.) and direct (if you like) to the ignition.
 
No idea, haven't done anything to check. That East Coast Low has arrived, blowing a Gale and pissing down.
 
Finally got back to Western Laverda Central after the bad weather, we tried 3 Regulators. 2 Shindencos that did exactly the same readings, 14.5 at 4000, turn low beam on and 15.2. And a Hitachi that looked promising on Bretts Multi but heading home read 16.2 at 4000 and 14.4 with low beam on. At least it went down with more load.For now it will turn me into a permanent Headlight runner till its sorted. So the brains of the outfit has a theory and proposed a little competition as to What's Up With Vinces Regulators. Best correct answer wins the Aclame and 3 solid Cheers. Apparently its a bit of an odd one if his theory is right.
 
A reg/rect 'sees' system voltage either via its positive /negative battery connections or separate sense wire. Some types rely on their case being earthed.

The regulator then controls that voltage by dumpling excess output to earth.

Since you have swapped reg/rect, the varying voltage can only mean that there is a connection with high resistance which drops the sensed voltage. The reg/rect then compensates by increasing its output.

So you're looking for a poor connection or partly broken wire. I'd try a different battery to rule that out (possible broken internal connection)

In all cases, measuring system voltage anywhere other than directly across battery terminals is potentially (sorry) misleading.
 
I was going to say something similar to what Rob said above. If your RR is sampling (and controlling) the voltage at one location in the wiring harness, and your voltmeter is looking at a different location, then you'll more than likely get screwed-up results. Try connecting the voltmeter to the same connections that the RR uses for voltage sensing.
 
HINT
Added to the other thread, hope it actually works when done.

And I checked how the latest Regulator was going, still need to keep the headlight on so it stays under 15 volts, there is a fix but I need the brains trust to fit it, my attempt had the starter relay fuse blow immediately. There is a hint as to the FIX, almost plug and play if you wire and plug the ORIGINAL Shendenco in correctly.
 
I just did a Google search on what was said to me and Rob is from my DULL knowledge close to the issue. Hope this works out in the long run. It's WAY past my comfort zone technically.
 
All fixes, heading out to Blacktown with the Hitachi regulator fitted it hit 16.1 volts at 4000k and 14.7 with low beam on at the same revs, heading home after Brett after refitted my original Shendenco regulator wired in differently it now reads 14.5 volts at 4000k and 13.7 with low beam on at the same revs. Good to have it fixed before next weekends ride to Walca.Forgot to add I had 5 regulators with me in the tankbag in case they were needed, none were. 2 from Marty, 2 from me, and 1 from Brett.
 
Shindengen first choice for me after much research. Mosfet design more efficient. Run cooler. Japanese made. At least the ones fitted to their higher end models. Sure helps if the wires are in the right place...
 
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