Refill Oil Capacity 180° Triple

The Sock

The Sock

Hero member
Location
London
Just changed the oil, in mine, and it occurred to me that this might be worth sharing, particularly with newer, “ I finally achieved my dream!” owners.
The sump capacity is listed as three litres but, when I’ve done a simple oil change, the most I can get in it, before it’s up to the top mark on the dipstick, is slightly less than two and a half.
After a filter inspection change, it takes slightly more but three litres would still overfill it, learned the hard way after my first change in ‘76.
Longer term owners, have you found this, too, or is it an oddity of mine?
If not, newer owners check level after adding two litres and top to the dipstick!Laverda Oil Check 101.jpg
 
It's the same as my 3c, the primary holds appox1/2 a litre and it transfers very slowly in early models via 3 small holes. So the crankcase holds 2 1/2 approx. There is also some in the oil cooler. Later models transfer the primary to the crankcase much quicker so they do need 3 litres.
 
Vince said:
It's the same as my 3c, the primary holds appox1/2 a litre and it transfers very slowly in early models via 3 small holes. So the crankcase holds 2 1/2 approx. There is also some in the oil cooler. Later models transfer the primary to the crankcase much quicker so they do need 3 litres.
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Cheers, Vince.
 
Suggestions from the ILOC Forum:

"In early motors the chaincase needs to be drained also at oil change time due to different internal drillings. They all take three litres." Keith Nairn

"Certainly agree with Keith, the "Wall" between the primary chain case and the crankcase is (as he says) different in early or late models, and more than one change as well, I remove the chain adjuster to drain it, with a short 2" x 1" under the right stand foot and mine is later (1980) , I have an exactly 3 litre stainless jug for oil measuring, and this is always used, it all goes in, the jug has no other function and is stored with a clear plastic bag over its top to keep it clean, have to keep it out of sight of the kids though!

It always fascinated me why Ricardo Oro always removes the outer gearbox triangle and loosens the inner, he has a shaped aluminum sheet which hooks onto the lower frame rail, to direct oil into his catch pan,and that's how he does an oil change on a triple, he doesn't even touch the drain plug, a pain in the arse, but always worth getting the sump strainer out every few oil changes, maybe once a year at season start."

So, although I was following the Factory recommendations, I've been doing it wrong for forty-five years. No wonder my bike hasn't lasted well.
 
Exactly the same with mine Hamish. The only thing I don't quite understand is that after the oil change and a run, the oil on the dip stick remains perfectly clear when I would have thought it would be contaminated with the residual half litre or so.
 
Perry said:
Exactly the same with mine Hamish. The only thing I don't quite understand is that after the oil change and a run, the oil on the dip stick remains perfectly clear when I would have thought it would be contaminated with the residual half litre or so.
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That's my experience, too, Perry. The oil, on the dipstick remains clear for hundreds of miles.
 
breganzane said:
Oro has probably been caught more than once with a sump plug previously stripped or tightened till it went soft. He removes the plug and the thread comes out with it, fixing it becomes his problem.
Click to expand...
A block of something under the LHS of the centre stand or another alternative to lean the bike to the RHS. Loosen the out gearbox cover, allow old to drain...
 
Early triples had 3 tiny holes in the case that oil transfers through from the primary to the main case. It takes a while for that to happen. Later triples have a much more open design that allows primary chain area oil to freely flow across to the main case. Early triples relyed on the chain splashing oil about. Later bikes had a positive pressure line aimed at the primary chain. The primary chain area holds approx 1/2 a litre and doesn't drain in an oil change unless you pull the primary chain adjuster in early bikes, later bikes don't need this to drain ALL the oil. I thought I had posted all this in the first 3 posts in this thread.
 
You did Vince, but a 1200 is a late triple and Rob's takes 2.5L while Sid's (whether old or new) takes 3L. And are the holes so tiny that oil is basically sealed in there and the only way to get it out is to pull the primary tensioner bolt??? I'm just making the point that if you wait long enough for oil to drain when emptying and then for new oil to settle, surely all triples take the same amount of oil to hit the top mark on the dipstick ... unless of course, one has the dipstick screwed in and the other not?!
 
Glad I posted this one.
Seems that the fallacy that this Laverda, that engine number/year, this result, is exploded.
No wonder the rivet counters have nightmares.
 
Well there you go, to me 1200s are a definite subset of Laverda. You apparently cannot lump them in with my 1000cc experience of seeing your typical inside architecture of Laverdas
 
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