removal of the primary transmission cover

sfc28

Junior member
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voici comment retirer le couvercle sans endommager le joint et le boîtier.
enfiler 2 trous opposés à 7mm et visser juste en tension et avec un coup de maillet doucement et ainsi immédiatement.
 
Tapping a couple of cover bolt holes to M7 and using jacking screws is a clever idea. But you wouldn't want to put too much force on them because it could damage the M6 threads in the case.
 
The grot gathering at the thread entrance says a lot... :rolleyes:

A solution in search of a problem? Not convinced, sorry.

I spend many hours reclaiming/cleaning engine side cover threads... purposely damaged ones? Life's too short.

piet
 
Couldn't you just put a thin blanking plate over the M6 thread in the case - then the M7 pushes against that and no damage could result.
 
put a very thin and sharp blade (razor blade, Stanley blade) between the THICKNESS of the gasket in three places and cut it as far as you can go without other items like the frame getting in your way, then try the starter motor trick, if it fails, get some PLASTIC wedges as used for spacers in fitting house windows, and tap very gently, if it doesn't move something else is wrong, use very little force, it must come off the crankcase absolutely parralell, as their are two needle roller bearings in the outer case, and they wont go wonky without complaining.
CLEM
 
Couldn't you just put a thin blanking plate over the M6 thread in the case - then the M7 pushes against that and no damage could result.
If you have a gap you can slide a plate in to, you've already broken the seal. Generally easy-peasy from there.

You'd need at least 3 such screws to push the cover off squarely, there are no fixings on the cover centre-line. Safer to pull it off manually, or use the skew of the crank to wobble it off. ;)

piet
 
I wallop with a rubber mallet to create a parting, then lever it off with various blades.
And then reuse the gasket.

Paul
 
OK, let's get real. Get a hose barb with an M10 thread. remove the primary chain tensioner bolt and screw in the hose fitting. Blank off the crankcase vent, hook up an air hose to your fitting in the primary case and blow air in at about 100psi. Stand clear when you open the air valve.
 
I’m thinking it’s going to be ugly inside if it’s that hard to pull off. The picture shows 5 or 6mm of movement, then no go. It’s already past the difficult point, should just pop off now.
 
Piet is right, just put in tension , after the mallet , 7mm for 6 is right orput a 5mmaxis in it
The important thing is to take it off.Then there are other tools to take off
 
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I just put my fingers the best i can in the gap at the bottom and tap the rear off the cover forwards with a rubber mallet while pulling the bottom outwards they also need to be tapped back on
 
putting the cover back on, slow rotate the motor crank/gearbox shafts while equal hand pressure on the primary cover. Forcing the needle bearings on a non rotate shaft, stopped doing that after the first time...shudder... also works for removal once gasket seal is disturbed, use a couple of long handled 5m/m allen keys as lever handles in the vacated M6 holes of the primary, needs two people for the above operations, not always possible. HTH j
 
I can feel the blokes frustration, there was a couple of times when similar happened trying to get my head off. The alloy would pinch under the head nuts stress. It takes so much time jiggling slowly and not doing damage. Such a pain when this happens
 
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