Brembo master cylinder rebuild

[Laverdalothar]

you may add the "how to overhaul brake and caliper masters" PDF from me if you like...  

http://laverdaforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11278/Repair_Guide_Clutch_and_Brake_Master.pdf

 

[noodels]

Hi thanks for the How To/hints. Q does this method apply to rear master repair laverda 500 ?
thanks in advance 

 

[Laverdalothar]

I think it is similar, but not 100% the same. can only talk about the fronts, as I only did them as of yet.

HTH

 

[Davo]

There is an excellent section on Brembo brakes in the book "Guzziology" by Dave Richardson. Covers all aspects of servicing and rebuilding calipers and mastercylinders as well as compatibility charts for brake upgrades.

Obviously copyright so you would have to buy a copy.

 

[noodels]

Thanks  look much the same thanks 

 

[Spyder31]

you may add the "how to overhaul brake and caliper masters" PDF from me if you like... 

http://laverdaforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11278/Repair_Guide_Clutch_and_Brake_Master.pdf

That was really useful, many thanks for sharing it

 

[Laverdalothar]

Great if it was of some help to you, so it was worth making it ;-)

 

[MarkT]

Maybe a bit late in this post, but thanks for posting the Instructions - very useful and very helpful!!

 

[Laverdalothar]

thanks for the feedback, glad if it helped. It is a fairly easy overhaul (well - if I can do it, almost everyone can), maybe easier than most people think.

 

[sideshow]

Thanks a bunch.  It?s a great document

 

[Laverdalothar]

Thanks. Next time I have a set of carbs in my hands, I will make one for overhauling them... ;-)

 

[Mactriple]

Thanks for that. How do you get the plastic reservoir off if it won't move?
Ian

 

[Legs]

Thanks Lothar,
I believe you have posted this before; got the instructions up in the shed and used them when I rebuilt my m/c years ago.

 

[Laverdalothar]

Thanks for that. How do you get the plastic reservoir off if it won't move?
Ian

if you have removed the screws and the metal plate, it should come off with a bit of gentle force. Not to much, please. All it holds in place is just maybe some mud

 

[Mactriple]

Lothar,
It was mud. A couple of sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner loosened it up nicely. Thanks.
Ian

 

[Dellortoman]

That bloody mud in the hydraulic fluid is a bit of a mystery to me. I dunno where it comes from, but it seems to contaminate all hydraulic systems after a few years. Brake and clutch hydraulic systems are closed, so I very much doubt it's dust that gets in from outside. It doesn't appear to be metallic so it's not from cylinder wear. It must be some chemical change in the fluid that causes particles to precipitate.  Are there any clever people out there who know the answer?

 

[Laverdalothar]

I suppose it is a mixture of water and wear. The piston f.e. has a coating, maybe that wears off a bit and builds up that mud together with some water (Any time you open the reservoir to top-up the fluid, it comes in contact with air and might drag some humidity out of the air into the system)

 

[Laverdalothar]

Lothar,
It was mud. A couple of sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner loosened it up nicely. Thanks.
Ian

(cheers)

great it worked out to be just mud and now you can re-assemble the sucker again. Be careful after re-building it, make sure it really holds together and is tight and sealed correctly. Better test the brake with slowly riding several times and check the fluid reservoir stays full.

 

[CLEMTOG]

surely its the degradation of the black seals?

I notice on TOG that the fluid is nice and clear in the (see through Ducati) master cylinders, but that it changes to dark then black over about three years, by which time the fluid should be changed anyway., Seals maybe after six years, leaking or not, we all do that don't we?
CLEM

 

[Mactriple]

(cheers)

great it worked out to be just mud and now you can re-assemble the sucker again. Be careful after re-building it, make sure it really holds together and is tight and sealed correctly. Better test the brake with slowly riding several times and check the fluid reservoir stays full.

I will get the parts re-anodised and go from there. is the o-ring a special one?
ian