Laverda Jota Ownership, second time around. (ramblings)

Its a Bushman bracket with a Kawasaki ZX6 stand I would say..........you will need to mod the foot on the centre stand in some way to make it work if you bolt it straight on.... some clever chappies here have made a modded bracket so you dont need to bugger up the centre stand. Jotajoe on the forum here used to sell them send him a line he might still have some brackets.. then you just got to find a stand and bobs your uncle.
http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=91629.0

With the horn/horns yep wire in a relay definate good plan... two fold the horns will work better as now all the current for them aint going through the button and if one for some reason parts company with the bracket the wire wont then short on the exhaust and cause the bike to die.... good ole Laverda and minimum fuses... :eek:
Use the search function and you will a wiring diagram for this.

Plug leads I use dynatek silicon with copper core  wire cut them to length, fit termnals and boots to coil end and screw on the caps to tother
... though if you go to one of the local motor factor stores who specialise more in performance vehicles you should be able to pick up some 7mm copper core plug wires with right angle coil ends, cut them suckers to length  ... a set of new NGK caps XB05 caps and bob;s your uncle.. 

 
Thanks Guys, without multiquote function ita hard to reference everyone directly.

I have messaged Joe, will go pickup New HT leads today, and will definitely get someone to help me fit the horn correctly. Happy days.
 
4500km away. Home soon.

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New Ikon springs fitted.  New HT leads on.

Quick test ride up the coast. Springs working fine but nay still need some adjustment, haven't put any spacers in yet, will give them a few days to get used to it, then will give the spacers a go. I seem to remember that a spring with very little preload can feel firm because the spring is at the wrong part of the springs compression.

Old springs on the left, new Ikon spring on the right.

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Stripped one of the threads holding the handlebars on, removed the bolt and made up sometihg to do the trick but think I should go buy some more nylon nuts and use new ones next time I take the bars off.
 
You will need preload spacers Carlo. Front end must be a bit saggy without them, especially since the new spring looks a bit shorter than the original one.

Measure how much the suspension sags with both wheels on the ground and you sitting on the bike with your feet on the pegs (may need a second person to help hold the bike vertical take the measurement). I usually measure between the bottom of the lower triple clamp and the top of the fork slider.

Sag is the difference between full fork extension and where the suspension sits with bike and rider weight on the wheels.  Around 35mm is optimal.

The proper way to measure sag is to compress the suspension, let it rise slowly to its rest position and measure. Then pull the handlebars up to extend the suspension and let it settle slowly to its rest position and measure again. Take the average of the two measurements, subtract it from the full extension measurement and that's your sag.

Incidentally, the difference between the two measurements is an indication of the amount of stiction in your forks. Less than 10mm is good.

I suspect that you'd be somewhere around 70 mm sag without any spacers. Once you've measured it, subtract 35mm from that measurement and that's the required spacer length.

I use orange electrical conduit to make my spacers. I trim them to length in the lathe to make sure the ends are square. Well, OK, they're still round, but you know what I mean  ::)

Happy to make up a pair of spacers for you once you have figured out the length required.

Cheers,
Cam
 
cbertozz said:
Stripped one of the threads holding the handlebars on, removed the bolt and made up sometihg to do the trick but think I should go buy some more nylon nuts and use new ones next time I take the bars off.

:eek: 
Not a very bright idea! :D

Do hope it's just a typo...

piet
 
Greg sent them with the springs. About 1" in length.

However, I just measured the front sag and its at 38mm, call is 40mm with gear, which is about right for a road bike. I put a small washer inside when I installed them which would have given me an extra 3mm or so but no more. So I got lucky.

To be fair when I took it for a ride today it felt good, not wallowy at all. Good under brakes and in the tight and more sweeping turns.


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Dellortoman said:
You will need preload spacers Carlo. Front end must be a bit saggy without them, especially since the new spring looks a bit shorter than the original one.

Cheers,
Cam

Gotta remember it has emulators fitted so probably had too much preload with the original springs.
 
You do need at something solid between the springs and the preload tube so either bear nicely,don't dig into or eat each other up if you get my drift. A nice thick washer with a small hole is fine.
 
Need to cut the spacers into shorter lengths. Typically on a modern sportsbike one full turn of preload is equivalent to 1mm but that's with upside down forks. Are the normal telescopic forks less sensitive? Otherwise it seems like I'd be better adding a 5mm spacer first.

Need to invest in a proper work bench and a bike lift to secure and work on the bike.
 
That's a bit harsh Ron.

Considering the flux of his post in this forum, it's highly unlikely he's real.

I've tried to help him out over his various issues but it's as if our input falls on deaf ears as he always changes the topic. Perhaps he is a Motorcycle Moron and should pay a Motorcycle Mechanic.

Something is not adding up for me.

You know damn well our Breganzies are not perfect and demand attention and usually found in the hands of seasoned Motorcyclists.

What's more, to days Mechanics know absolutely nothing about maintaining, rebuilding and tuning carburetors. It's all about reading codes, resetting the ECM in EFI Fuel Systems and I doubt one could even clean a TBI unit without bolting a new on.
 
Laverda SF said:
Considering the flux of his post in this forum, it's highly unlikely he's real.

I've tried to help him out over his various issues but it's as if our input falls on deaf ears as he always changes the topic. Perhaps he is a Motorcycle Moron and should pay a Motorcycle Mechanic.

Something is not adding up for me.

You know damn well our Breganzies are not perfect and demand attention and usually found in the hands of seasoned Motorcyclists.

What's more, to days Mechanics know absolutely nothing about maintaining, rebuilding and tuning carburetors. It's all about reading codes, resetting the ECM in EFI Fuel Systems and I doubt one could even clean a TBI unit without bolting a new on.

Thanks SF, little harsh ;) I'll wager **you're** a grumpy old fart (is that what you mean by seasoned motorcyclist?) who talks about riding more than actually riding.

So far I've managed to fix a number of issues thanks to the input on this forum, and I've acknowledged that with thanks. If I'm posting a lot it's becuase there's a lot of issues to sort out but you're free to ignore my ramblings on this thread, which is why it's labelled as such.



 
To be honest early on I was suspecting some trolling but now I don't. I like the fact he asked some basic,to long term owners,questions. It's good to go back to basics and generate some activity here,at least it's better than see this bike for sale posts,that seems to be all that's happening lately. If that's all that happens people get bored and piss off. If you don't like it don't read it or get involved,easy fix. It's good to see someone invest in and RIDE a Laverda and look at fixing shit.
 
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