Frame crack

  • Thread starter Thread starter Davo
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Davo

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So I finally get a day cool enough to work in the shed. Aim is to pull the forks off so as to replace the blown seals and then fit the new Racetech  emulator adaptor and fork springs. Pull the tank off to find the frame has cracked.

The question is, can the have the gussets welded in just by stripping all parts in proximity and without removing the engine or am I facing a complete strip down.

 
More space to work and easier to turn the frame around to weld all the angles with a bare frame.
 
Grant said:
More space to work and easier to turn the frame around to weld all the angles with a bare frame.
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That's what I f'n thought. FFF
 
scrman said:
asbestos blanket over the donk-a good welder should be able to nail the job-id give it ago
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Make sure you give the asbestos blanket a really good shake before you use it.  Get all those asbestos particles off the blanket and airborne.  Don't want them ending up in the donk! ::)
 
My focus is on how it got there in the first place?
To my eyes the weld at the origin of the crack is incomplete., allowing stresses and strains to concentrate at a pinpoint both sides and thus crack(s).
If that is correct then I reckon a neat weld run from one end - through the dodgy bit and to the other end is in order. TIG weld with pre- heat to minimise distortion.
Clem?
 
If it's the downtubes leading from the steering head it's a very common problem on both 120 and 180 triple frames.
Braking forces allied to long forks.
Do a search to find owners solutions to the problem.
Here's mine:

 
Yep. It is RHS down tube at the bottom of the "brace" that has the tank mount in it.

Your solution looks like it would survive a front on with a tank  :o I will probably go for something simpler, maybe a blend of Rob and Red.
 
I did mine with the front end stuff removed and all the associated wiring pushed away.
Also removed both steering head bearings and fitted a bearing sized spacer in the bottom of the head, this to prevent distortion.

Tom
 
Mine's really stiffens up the handling like you wouldn't believe.
It also has braced swing arm pivot and extra frame bracing though.
No more 'hesitation' when the bend tightens up mid corner and you have to throw it right over.
Also means it doesn't need a fork brace as the lower yoke is 60mm closer to the front axle.
 
Fairly sure this has been posted before...but here you can see Keith's handiwork.  Engine in frame - stuff removed / stripped back out of the way
 

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SimonR501 said:
Rob, I seem to remember Keith also put something inside the steering head to stop the bearings being pulled out of shape with the welding.
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Indeed he does. A great slug of steel bar in the bottom housing
 
These might be useful:

http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,84340.0.html
http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,89255.msg268383.html#msg268383
 
Im intrigued, this is keith's work on my frame but only has the bracing from the down tubes to the steering head yet others show another bracing behind the head stock. Any ideas why only the one on my frame?

Im
 
Referring to mine?
Different requirement.
Steering head extended 60mm, with new steering stem fitted.
In addition to bracing the crack I wanted improved performance.
 
padlock said:
Im intrigued, this is keith's work on my frame but only has the bracing from the down tubes to the steering head yet others show another bracing behind the head stock. Any ideas why only the one on my frame?
Click to expand...

Because it was not yet cracked... maybe, perhaps? :D

piet
 
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