Adjusting Andys Primary Chain

V

Vince

Hero member
I do this so infrequently I forget how. From memory, the tight till it wines and back off till the sound stops doesn't work on Andys chain. I seem to remember Cam worked out the adjuster bolt thread pitch and gave a tight then back off turn number. Anyway, I have searched the forum for an hour and found nothing. Any tips.
 
Thanks, I will take the spanner and stubby screwdriver tomorrow in case I stuffed it. It sounds better now.
 
FWIW, Vince.  Gives you a choice, anyhow .. :D

"RGS Primary chain adjustment

1.  Keith?s way:
Cold engine. Wind the adjuster in until it?s finger tight, then back it out a turn and a quarter.

Keith Nairn
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2.  Wolfgang Haerter's way:
Cold engine. Turn adjuster until it's snug against the chain.  Loosen, then snug again, then back 3/4 turn and lock.

Chain runs quiet, appears to give proper adjustment judging from the sound and apparent lack of any issues whatsoever. I've been doing it this way for the past few years on my 83 RGS with twin chains.

Richard (Kanvaslaverda)"
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I insist, if you're running twin chains, they need to be looser because of uneven wear.
Around 1 and 1/2 turns back.

Paul
 
After what's said: I place the bike on the center stand. Start her up and place her in 1st or 2nd gear. Rev her up and feather the rear brake and listen - If you hear the Primary Chain wine or rattle - Loosen or tighten the tension a bit until you can barely hear it.

Last thing you want to hear is a persistent wine or slapping. Either way, if you do not adjust the primary chain properly you are sure to wear out the Teflon slide adjuster and possibly wreck either the crankshaft main end or transmission casing bearings.
 
or you could get one of these.....
for sale at 125GBP or with pleasant turned and welded in alloy access cap, then properly polished all over, 350GBP
 

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CLEMTOG said:
or you could get one of these.....
for sale at 125GBP or with pleasant turned and welded in alloy access cap, then properly polished all over, 350GBP
Click to expand...

I can't believe more than one person has done that!!! I worked on an SF1 where some complete dolt had done that - absolutely beyond belief. Just shows you what a minefield a second hand Lav can be - if you are a complete greenhorn and no nothing about them.
 
the access door is probably not a bad idea, but this one is badly executed, the lock wire tells a story, there shouldn't be any positive pressure for one thing, and also the rubber plug is glued in with what looks like red Hermetite, a good find for twenty quid or so, and maybe one day I will return it to stock, the early ones with "1000" are getting hard to find, or maybe (more likely) I will do a better job in metal work.
CLEM
 
Regarding Wolfgang’s method, when you say ‘snug’ does this mean tighten the adjuster until it won’t tighten any further/all slack has gone, then back out 3/4 turn?
 
I'd suggest that the word 'snug' implies tightening the adjuster until positive resistance is felt, indicating that all chain slack has been taken up. So bulging veins and Popeye muscles definitely not required!
 
That was the way I read it as well. Tighten until slack has been taken out without applying undue pressure, then back off.
Many thanks.
 
Rob said:
I'd suggest that the word 'snug' implies tightening the adjuster until positive resistance is felt, indicating that all chain slack has been taken up. So bulging veins and Popeye muscles definitely not required!
Click to expand...

That's my interpretation too. I screw the adjuster until I feel resistance, then back it off a turn.
 
It takes a bit of hand effort to take the sag out of the chain, especially with a short screwdriver, that's what confused me the first time I did it, so it's not just touching the chain but as said a few posts back it's not eye popping pressure either.
 
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