Jota fairing mount

Bradcl said:
Well , that’s my fall back if the aggravation is too high. I have all the parts for that approach. I just really like the looks of the faired bike. I need to make the decision now since everything’s disassembled so I’m trying to figure out the level of difficulty and the odds of success while it’s in bits.
Click to expand...
Obviously a man of impeccable taste 👍Go for it I say 😎
 
Getting each lug aligned to, and distance apart from, the other is easy - a flat piece of steel or alu with the holes drilled the right distance apart and that's taken care of.

Then the trick bit: vertical alignment could be ensured by using the headstock as the vertical ref. If you could mount a central all-thread into the headstock that was centered by the bearing journals you could use this as your vertical ref and have your flat steel/alu lug-holding piece attached to this with a long straight edge running parallel with the centreline of the bike front-to-back. I didn't go to this much trouble, but it would definitely give you an accurate fit.

Alternatively a cross-piece from the flat lug holder could be ref'd to a long set square type of arrangement. The longer the fore-aft ref the more accurate the result. You could even mount straight edges off the swingarm pivot axle running up to the headstock and the lug plate. Don't give up, just nut it out.
 
That’s very helpful - I like the cross piece on the lug holder and the long squares. Thanks for the encouragement as well. I figure if they could do this in production a simple jig could be fashioned.
 
Bradcl said:
That’s very helpful - I like the cross piece on the lug holder and the long squares. Thanks for the encouragement as well. I figure if they could do this in production a simple jig could be fashioned.
Click to expand...
and wouldn't it be relatively easy to have a long(er) dummy bolt screwed into the lugs prior to tacking? That would definitely be the start of a 'jig' and be a good eyeball.
 
Someone as clever as Cam could work out the wonkiness in mm if the left or right angle of the bosses was wrong. Length of bracket to headstock is about 280mm. OK Cam, get ya Engee calculator out.
 
Yeah, I know. I did have a Ducati 250d (yellow) that had an aftermarket fairing and that’s how it connected to the headstock. Didn’t work well, of course. Sorry I even mentioned it.
 
I used a Big U shaped car exhaust clamp around the headstock and 1 bolt welded on for a while but it would fail regularly way better now with 2 welded connections a good starting point is to use a spirit level on one of the front disc brakes and shim the bike plumb off the centrestand that way you can easily plumb and check tha fairing mount as well
 
Probably better to use the spirit level on the rear disk because the front disks are only in the vertical plane when the steering is perfectly centered.
These little magnetic Stanly 2 bubble levels are good for that sort of thing, but they're a bugger to keep clean. The magnet picks up all sorts of shit off your bench (or in your pocket) like filings and bits of welding slag. Any bit of crap on the magnet will throw it out of plumb. I keep mine stuck to a steel column in my shed so it's out of the way of swarf and other magnetic crap that seems to be everywhere on the bench.
www.ebay.com.au

STANLEY 2-VIAL MAGNETIC POCKET SPIRIT LEVEL WIH BELT CLIP | eBay Australia

Stanley Part No. 0-42-130. Experience old fashioned friendly service and advice. We look forward to serving you! Pocket size for easy storage. Strong molded plastic casing for durability.
www.ebay.com.au

Horizontal and vertical references, and centre-lines on a bike frame are not always easy to find. You could put a spirit level across the top frame tubes, but who knows whether the frame is assembled with millimeter perfection?

On bikes with hollow swing arm pivots you can slide a bar through and use that as a horizontal reference. That works on my bevel Ducati, but it's not a lot of help with a Laverda.

PS: That's a lousy price for the Stanley level on the ebay site above. Total Tools Australia has them for $13.95
www.totaltools.com.au

STANLEY Magnetic Pocket Level 0-42-130

STANLEY Magnetic Pocket Level 0-42-130 is available at Total Tools. Low Price Guarantee and Free Delivery on orders above $99.
www.totaltools.com.au www.totaltools.com.au
 
Last edited:
It's a drum brake rear on mine so that's why I said front with it pointing straight ahead it still works ok I have or did have a clampable manually rotatable laser level you set with a plate bubble that sets a laser vertically or horizontally handy gadget for this stuff
 
Don't get carried away with accuracy. Even the factories get it wrong - frequently.
I saw a story which illustrates this....Steve Baker on receiving his works Yamaha OW31 TZ750, noticed the front fairing mount was slightly out of true...they heated it up to tweak it straight, it wasn't moving. Oops, it was Titanium.....And those things were hand built and cost megadollars....
If it's straight enough to pass the scrutiny of a group of Laverda owners, that's good enough surely.
 
If you are going to the effect you might as well try and make it a reasonable job of it it will be stareing you right in the face
 
Good god, I thought I was paranoid when doing my first ones. I made up a brace to hold the lugs apart the correct distance. Tapped a thread in the centre of a brace, ran a die down about a mt of rod, screwed it into the brace, bolted the brace to the lugs and lined up the rod with the centre of the frame. Tack, tack….. bzzzzzzz, bzzzzzz Done
 
  • Haha
Reactions: T.C
I would do it in the same way as Chris. How are the tolerances at the end of the mount? 0.05 mm or 5 mm? Just weld it in line with the main beam of the frame.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top