1974 Laverda 1000 3C

Ex Queenslander, he would come back to Oz to see his old Mum every couple of years. We meet up sometime years ago on a NSW club ride but I forget the details. I think he is a University Lecturer in Chemistry in Florida. He hasn't been around here in quite a while.
 
"a clunking noise"
It's hard to describe a noise. Everybody might imagine
something different.
By"clunking" the first thing that comes to my mind would
be a bearing failure.

Ernesto
 

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Thanks for the info, I will get on it. I will try next week for Wolfgang. My also drop 'sfcpiet' a note as he commented on my previous questions. For Chappo, I am a Florida native and my name is John Windham. Thanks all, Best Regards John
 
sfcpiet said:
If the mileage of the chain is unknown, replace it. Chains are cheaper than crankcases! The primary chains were specified for replacement at 25000km by the factory.

Other sources of clunking/clashing noises are worn clutch drums and hubs, knackered primary cush drive rubbers or loose crank sprockets, all, unfortunately, very common.

Laverda triples are generally hi-mileage bikes and many did not recieve the TLC that they demand.
Click to expand...
Piet, this is John. There is slack between the clutch drum and the large primary chain sprocket attached to it. Is there any way to alleviate that problem ? Could you also comment on where the cush rubbers are to be used at. I know almost mothing about this Laverda but I am slowly learning. I don't know where to learn about "threads" which is where I need info from.. Thank you for any help you can give me Best Regards John
 
johnwindham4 said:
Could you also comment on where the cush rubbers are to be used at.
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Hi John, the bolts* indicated by the white arrow in the attached picture pass through the cush drive rubbers. Number 23 in the exploded diagram.
I have also cut and paste some info I saved when I was changing chains and cush drive rubbers.

Hope this helps, Darren.

*Some models had rivets, not bolts.

primary chain renewal
« Reply #14 on: August 18, 2006, 17:17 »
The front sprocket does not have to be removed...the rubbers will come out and the large sprocket will be allowed enough movement to get the chain off. I've done it and it is a 30 minutes job on an RGS

primary chain renewal
« Reply #15 on: August 18, 2006, 17:36 »
Hi Paul, I never take the front sprocket off to remove the chain.
1/ remove the clutch outrigger
2/ and the tin cover plate with the 6 M6 bolts
3/ pull out the 8 rubbers with a pair of long nose pliers, gently! Watch for the steel shim around them & also note which way round they come out. Very easy....
4/ The chain wheel is then loose, fore & aft & should give you sufficient movement to ease the chain off, without disturbing the front drive sprocket.
Obviously my cover plate has 6 m6 bolts, not rivets and it beats messing up your lock washer on the front.
Regards Rob
 

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johnwindham4 said:
Piet, this is John. There is slack between the clutch drum and the large primary chain sprocket attached to it. Is there any way to alleviate that problem ? Could you also comment on where the cush rubbers are to be used at. I know almost mothing about this Laverda but I am slowly learning. I don't know where to learn about "threads" which is where I need info from.. Thank you for any help you can give me Best Regards John
Click to expand...
As this is a '74 triple, the clutch drum is most likely to still be rivetted and does not have the later outrigger support. Therefore, the Jesus nut will need to be removed in order to remove the clutch drum from the mainshaft. Use the tool of choice for the Jesus nut, my tool of choice is a 1/2" drive rattle gun with a 32mm socket, quick, clean and easy.

Simply driving out the rivets to replace the rubbers is a sure formula to terminally damage the drum, may as well throw everything in the bin and source new bits, fat chance. Proper method; with an angle grinder, grind the rivets from the outside down to the tin plate cover. Look closely and centre-punch each of the rivets, drill each rivet 15mm deep with a 4mm drill, preferably on a drill press. Tap the rivets GENTLY with a 4mm punch down the holes so the plate cover just comes free and remove. Remove the sprocket and rubbers. Tap the rivets back to full protrusion and grind off the protruding parts. Gently and carefully punch the rivets out of the drum, if due care is taken, none of the pillars locating the rubbers will have cracked. Clean/de-grease the whole caboodle. The holes in the plate cover can be taken out to 6.5mm and de-burred. The bores in the pillars will accept an M6 tap, if done carefully the thread will end up quite acceptable. Source 8-off M6x20 hex screws, slip the sprocket over the drum, spray it with a liberal coating of silicone grease and install the new rubbers, making sure the chamfer goes to the base of the pillars. Secure the cover with the screws, together with a drop of Loctite on each screw. Washers are not absolutely necessary, I use Schnorr-type washers (the same process applies to the 750s, NO washers should be fitted in that case, no space for them under the prinmary cover!) . Refit the clutch drum together with the front sprocket and the new chain, do up the Jesus nut with a new locking washer and you're set to button it all up and re-adjust the primary chain, hopefully eliminating most of the clatter.

Sometimes, the drum pillars are cracked upon installation of the rivets, ex-factory. This is of no great consequence, the bike's lasted almost 50 years with these cracks. Cut the threads and leave the cracks as they are. Of course you can have them welded if you're really anal, but it ain't worth the hassle... I've performed just about every imaginable repair on these drums and have yet to have a pillar fail completely. I've found a few completely snapped off, but only in conjunction with other damage, mechanical ignorance is quite widespread.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
As this is a '74 triple, the clutch drum is most likely to still be rivetted and does not have the later outrigger support. Therefore, the Jesus nut will need to be removed in order to remove the clutch drum from the mainshaft. Use the tool of choice for the Jesus nut, my tool of choice is a 1/2" drive rattle gun with a 32mm socket, quick, clean and easy.

Simply driving out the rivets to replace the rubbers is a sure formula to terminally damage the drum, may as well throw everything in the bin and source new bits, fat chance. Proper method; with an angle grinder, grind the rivets from the outside down to the tin plate cover. Look closely and centre-punch each of the rivets, drill each rivet 15mm deep with a 4mm drill, preferably on a drill press. Tap the rivets GENTLY with a 4mm punch down the holes so the plate cover just comes free and remove. Remove the sprocket and rubbers. Tap the rivets back to full protrusion and grind off the protruding parts. Gently and carefully punch the rivets out of the drum, if due care is taken, none of the pillars locating the rubbers will have cracked. Clean/de-grease the whole caboodle. The holes in the plate cover can be taken out to 6.5mm and de-burred. The bores in the pillars will accept an M6 tap, if done carefully the thread will end up quite acceptable. Source 8-off M6x20 hex screws, slip the sprocket over the drum, spray it with a liberal coating of silicone grease and install the new rubbers, making sure the chamfer goes to the base of the pillars. Secure the cover with the screws, together with a drop of Loctite on each screw. Washers are not absolutely necessary, I use Schnorr-type washers (the same process applies to the 750s, NO washers should be fitted in that case, no space for them under the prinmary cover!) . Refit the clutch drum together with the front sprocket and the new chain, do up the Jesus nut with a new locking washer and you're set to button it all up and re-adjust the primary chain, hopefully eliminating most of the clatter.

Sometimes, the drum pillars are cracked upon installation of the rivets, ex-factory. This is of no great consequence, the bike's lasted almost 50 years with these cracks. Cut the threads and leave the cracks as they are. Of course you can have them welded if you're really anal, but it ain't worth the hassle... I've performed just about every imaginable repair on these drums and have yet to have a pillar fail completely. I've found a few completely snapped off, but only in conjunction with other damage, mechanical ignorance is quite widespread.

piet
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Piet, Finally got a chance to reply to you post. You are an absolute Gentleman and I greatly appreciate your help. My son is a great mechanic and takes pride in his work. He can help me with this and will help me when he gets a chance. I spoke to Phil, who has a Italian bike shop in Miami and he is looking for parts. If you have the parts I need, in stock, and the exchange rate is not too bad I would be just as well to get the parts from you. Would that be possible? I have Paypal and a major credit card. Hopefully I will hear from Phil in Miami. Once again, I want you to know I appreciate your help, Best Regards John Windham
 
johnwindham4 said:
Piet, Finally got a chance to reply to you post. You are an absolute Gentleman and I greatly appreciate your help. My son is a great mechanic and takes pride in his work. He can help me with this and will help me when he gets a chance. I spoke to Phil, who has a Italian bike shop in Miami and he is looking for parts. If you have the parts I need, in stock, and the exchange rate is not too bad I would be just as well to get the parts from you. Would that be possible? I have Paypal and a major credit card. Hopefully I will hear from Phil in Miami. Once again, I want you to know I appreciate your help, Best Regards John Windham
Click to expand...
Wolfgang in BC should have everything you may need in stock, possibly quicker and cheaper than shipping from EU.

Failing that, always pleased to oblige. ;)

piet
 
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