1000 3c Valve spring question

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Geezer

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Ye Ye, know, all newby questions  :) :) With my 1000 3C I also got a few boxes with parts. In a bag I found this, are these valve-springs? I've found three longer one and three shorter ones. So I think either way I have to buy me some new ones  :D Who can tell me if these springs belong to a 1000 triple, and why two sizes??
The long ones are 46 mm long, 22.7 mm diameter and have 2.7 mm thickness. The small ones are 31 mm long, 22.0 mm diameter and have 3.0 mm thickness.
 
Hi - The long ones are the correct ones - the shorter ones were used with the 1980 model triples. Make sure you have the correct collet retainers - the ones you neeed are more deeply dished than the flatter 1980 ones - if you have both you can compare - if not put up a photo of yours to confirm - HTh - Phil
 
the long ones at 46.0mm probably come from Motali and will be crooked
stand it on end and see if it is straight or not
I bought 4 complete sets (24 springs) from Ralph a few years ago aand found they were all around 46.0 mm and all but 2 where crooked, threw them all in the rubbish bin

correct units are 43.0 mm +/- when new

you should carefully store the short 1980 springs in your rubbish bin
 
I bought a set from Phil a little while back...maybe he has some left? Revs sooo sweetly now it pings off the Red/Sachse limiter at 8k when it feels like there is a whole lot to come (probably out of the exhaust if it were not for the limiter, eh? :D)
Nick7
 
Hi Nick

personally I would raise the limiter to at least 8,500 rpm, or even 9,000 rpm, you are right there is a lot left still to come above 8,000 rpm. I would be interested in a knowleadgeable opinion, but these motors in good condition with fresh valve springs seem safe to at least 9,000 rpm to me.........

Paul LeClair
 
The waranty is void after 8000rpm.  ;)

The 120's will rev and rev, long ago before I put a Witt on my RGS I regularly wound it way past 9k it would just kept pulling hard sounding wilder with every turn of the crank.... just couldn't stop meeself your honour.

Recon an old 180 will shake the shit out of itself at them sort of revs, why don't you try out first it on your motor Paul, do let us know the results.....  :D :D


   Keith.
 
No Keith, the 180's smooth out. When I was an unfeeling young chap years ago I never even realised my clutch was slipping on a motorway trip (doh!) the bike was revving at 9000 rpm for a fair few miles and it seemed sweet ha ha! Lasted for donkeys years too.  :D
 
I don't see a 180? motor going to much above 8 1/2 grand, mine goes to 8600-8700 (Veglia Competitizione) if I push it, but nothing much happens there anymore!  Best to change up a gear.  Mechanical ND tachs aren't neccesarily precise over their entire range. 

120s just keep going, possibly due to the even firing sequence and resulting exhaust efficiency... Gay? Ha ha... :D

piet
 
My orignal racing Mklll Saxon/Motodd - 1200cc - 180 degree - used to make max power @ 8000rpm and hold it to 8500 - then it would drop off rapidly - Regards - Phil
 
"Mechanical ND tachs aren't neccesarily precise over their entire range."

Well that must be obvious I would say going from my experience and from
other peoples knowledge ha ha!

The one on my Jarama goes backwards when it reaches the red-line  :D

 
sfcpiet said:
I don't see a 180? motor going to much above 8 1/2 grand, mine goes to 8600-8700 (Veglia Competitizione) if I push it, but nothing much happens there anymore!  Best to change up a gear.  Mechanical ND tachs aren't neccesarily precise over their entire range. 

120s just keep going, possibly due to the even firing sequence and resulting exhaust efficiency... Gay? Ha ha... :D

piet
Click to expand...

Wonder how that would look like if you would a) use a F1 Cam profile re-phased to 180?, b) change the exhaust setup accordingly and c) remove the rev-limiter in the DMC...  :D
 
Whatever happens to Paul's engine, I ain't fiddlin! Its a testament to the lovely new bits including ignition, and the way  its been put together  that it spins so nicely. I was thinking of having the clutch drilled/balanced etc, but if i do that and eliminate all vibration It'll ending up feeling like my VFR used to and defeat the point of it all...
Nick7
 
Laverdalothar said:
sfcpiet said:
I don't see a 180? motor going to much above 8 1/2 grand, mine goes to 8600-8700 (Veglia Competitizione) if I push it, but nothing much happens there anymore!  Best to change up a gear.  Mechanical ND tachs aren't neccesarily precise over their entire range.  

120s just keep going, possibly due to the even firing sequence and resulting exhaust efficiency... Gay? Ha ha... :D

piet
Click to expand...

Wonder how that would look like if you would a) use a F1 Cam profile re-phased to 180?, b) change the exhaust setup accordingly and c) remove the rev-limiter in the DMC...  :D
Click to expand...

Better to re-phase the crank to 120 instead of the cams.... :D :D

piet
 
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