1972/3 SF1 - seems to be missing copper washer on ceriani fork drain screw.

aircooled1

aircooled1

New member
Location
Concord, CA USA
I had noticed sometime back that Right fork of 1972/3 SF1 was dripping fork oil. 
So today I followed the instructions for fork fluid replacement and have a few questions:
1. The top fork nut is like 36mm. I have no socket or wrench that big. What do you guys suggest I get? Socket or wrench?
I decided NOT to improvise and do the right thing. Right tool for the job in this case and not scratch things up.

2. Upon removing the fork drain bolt (as you know a screw) and I notice there is NO copper washer that green book mentions should be there. Hmm... Maybe that is why it leaked in the first place. So I ask - it must be copper I assume to resist breakdown? I will try to find one at a hardware store/autoparts store (that would not know a Laverda from Laverne and Shirley most likely) unless I hear that I should source it elsewhere. :)
 
36mm, either or. You may be able to source a flat metal spanner with a 36mm hex insert. From memory the rear cush nut is 36mm; what do you use to undo and tighten this every time you adjust chain tension?

Definitely need the copper washer - it's a seal, so that's why it leaks. Good idea to anneal used ones by heating to cherry red and dropping in cold water.

Sounds like there are a few issues with your bike - have you recently purchased it? If so, and it were me, I'd be doing a full-blown check of everything on it. A bike prepped for sale will often have had loads of time spent on cosmetics and the mechanicals can be simply awful.
 
PB2 beat me to it, but seeing as I've typed this up, I may as well post it ?


No need to confuse anyone with Laverne and Shirley. The little washer is not necessarily a Laverda part, or even a Marzocchi or Ceriani part. It's just a copper washer. It has to be copper because it's soft and will squish to seal up any gaps. It's The bolt (plug) is M6. Go to a hardware shop and ask for a copper washer to suit a M6 bolt. A washer for 1/4" (6.25mm) is near enough. But before you put the washer on, heat it up to dull red hot (butane gas torch or a burner on a gas cooker will do it) then drop it in water. That anneals the copper so it's soft enough to do its job.

You're right about the correct tool for the job. An adjustable wrench, or even an open end spanner could easily burr the corners off the hexagon of the soft aluminium fork cap. Either a socket or ring spanner would be preferable. I guess a socket would be cheaper, but that might depend on what kind of socket set you already have. A 36mm socket will most likely be 1/2" drive. If you have a 3/8" set, you'll need an adaptor, or a 1/2" handle which could end up costing more than a 36mm spanner.

 
Put a thin T-shirt over the fork as well, whatever you use will be a sloppy fit and damage the hex. Dig in deep, those copper washers can hide well.
 
Thank you all for tips on this. Will proceed in the AM on it. I had not thought of annealing the washer. I will see what I can find for a thin 36mm closed wrench. Until that time I may have to settle for a 1/2 drive 36mm socket. But not too much room next to the handle bar.

I have had the bike for some years but admit I may have missed the broken spokes. Or possibly broke them on a ride and didn't realize it - but I always ride it gently. I have not had any other issues with it. Starts right up and purrs like a tractor.  At some point I want to ask the forum if anyone knows it's history.
 
A socket is definitely the preferred tool for fork caps, if there is any preload on the springs it can be tricky to get the thread to take. I use a socket on an extension and a T bar. Normal handlebars will have to be moved out of the way.
The drain screws on my Cerianis had a thin fibre washers from new. The damper rod  allen bolt (accessed with the axle out from underneath for forks) had the copper washer which must be annealed or it will sweat. The drain screw fibre washer is not a normal plumber shop size, I got some from a Vespa workshop.
 
SF1 has a 36mm fork cap. Yes, bars must be removed. I thought from memory the damper rod allens were M8, Cam? Could be wrong. I know it's a 6mm allen key, which is generally std for M8.

As Vince alluded to, the copper washer can be stuck in the actual slider after the allen bolt has been removed - make sure it;'s not in there before you go sourcing another.
 
Before attempting to remove the stanchion cap, loosen the top yoke clamp for that stanchion a little.  The yoke  can effectively clamp the cap in its thread, making removal next to impossible without damaging the cap.

piet
 
My trip to Ace hardware today was of mixed results. I was glad to find a Craftsman 36mm socket for 9.99 but did not have good results finding copper washers of the M6 size. They had one little plastic case of copper washers (American sizes) that were not right and I pictured drilling out the inner or grinding off the outer of those to achieve the size I wanted. Expensive too! 75 cents each.

I bought some in case I wanted to pursue that but alas at home realize I can buy real M6 copper washers on line and as a last resort (I like to support local shops) will do so.

I will say - some of the helpful replies you all gave assumed perhaps 2 different bolts.  I intend ONLY to drain from the horizontal drain screw and am not intending of removing the lower vertical bolt (allen head I guess) that ascends upward into the fork. 
One of you has advised I think that the horizontal drain screw takes fiber washer and not copper while others earlier were saying it taks a  copper washer.  Hmmm.. I don't see it plainly stated anywhere other than Green book that does not mention the washer. Only the removal of the drain screw.

Thoughts?  I am planning on ordering copper washers either tonite or tomorrow AM. Now the long pole in the tent is the Borranis anyway before I can ride again.  So may as well do it right.
 
My comment about diging deep for the washer refered to the vertical bolts that remove the lower fork legs, my error. I don't think there is much difference between copper and fibre other than copper is reusable.
 
Don't get confused by all this talk of copper, fibre etc ... there are two things being chucked about on this thread - the important slider securing bolts and the drain screws.

If it's only the drain screw, I agree an o-ring does the trick.
 
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