1973 750 SF - Where to sell, recommendations?

[Wyatt]

Hi all,
My other halfs father passed away recently and we retrieved his 'pride and joy' Laverda 1973 750SF.
It was stored in his long term garage as far as I can tell from the last MOT (2002) for the last 20ish years.
Sadly repeated bouts of ill health means he was unable to visit it, and there's a lot of surface rust, the tank has rust in (and a dent) but the bike looks complete with clean oil in, but I know nothing about bikes this old so don't even want to attempt to turn it over in case I cause some damage to the bores. It seems it was sorned just after the last MOT as it covered about 18 miles.

So, ideally it needs a strip down resto but that's out of my skillset as anything pre 1990 is out of my league.
Where would be the best place to sell as is? I feel like it's not an eBay/bike trader job (we're UK based)

 

[Paul Marx]

UK is where the prices are highest.
Try selling on here for a start.
Post some pics.
Paul

 

[smlav]

The market for classics in UK is slowed recently, lots of bikes remaining for sale for ages. Lots of surface rust could be indicative of expensive sorting required. Best to seek buyers from those who know Laverdas, so advertise on here and in various owners Facebook groups would be my first stop. You may not get a high price, but at least it stands a chance of going to who can breath life into it, Put some photo’s up here and you’ll get informed feedback.

 

[Tippie]

You could go either way with this. If you have no interest in it, do not touch it but move it on as indicated here.
Alternative is to see an opportunity to get into Laverda ownership via destiny. Do not fear the bores, if rusted it will either not move or scratch some rust.
I helped a mate with an SF2 which sat dissolving into rust for 20 years in a shed, it looked horrendous. However the motor turned over well by hand and it had compression. Ultrasonic cleaned the horribly corroded carbs, de grunged the points and it fired straight up. The reason for abandonedment was then evident, fatal sounding clunking from bottom end. Quick check showed brand new primary chains, and the loose jesus nut from the chain swap job.

 

[Wyatt]

You could go either way with this. If you have no interest in it, do not touch it but move it on as indicated here.
Alternative is to see an opportunity to get into Laverda ownership via destiny. Do not fear the bores, if rusted it will either not move or scratch some rust.
I helped a mate with an SF2 which sat dissolving into rust for 20 years in a shed, it looked horrendous. However the motor turned over well by hand and it had compression. Ultrasonic cleaned the horribly corroded carbs, de grunged the points and it fired straight up. The reason for abandonedment was then evident, fatal sounding clunking from bottom end. Quick check showed brand new primary chains, and the loose jesus nut from the chain swap job.

Hi tippie,
Thanks for the kind advice, I'd be interested from a project perspective but I already have a couple of aging bikes that keep me busy as is, add a couple of kids into the mix and there just isn't the time (and I don't have a garage to store it sadly) .
I'll be putting some pictures up in a few days after I find some time to at least give it a wash for comparison this is what it looked like in the late 90's

 

[Paul LeClair]

Hi Wyatt

looks like you might be in Surrey just outside Vancouver British Columbia Canada? If so, there are various potential buyers around Vancouver, on Vancouver Island, and where I am in Calgary Alberta.

This looks like a viable project bike. As I am a potential buyer myself for this upcoming winters Laverda project, i won't venture a guess as to value, do your research first then perhaps we can chat.

If you are in Surrey in the UK then shipping and import costs would make it a non starter for me to consider.

Paul LeClair

 

[Wyatt]

Hi Wyatt

looks like you might be in Surrey just outside Vancouver British Columbia Canada? If so, there are various potential buyers around Vancouver, on Vancouver Island, and where I am in Calgary Alberta.

This looks like a viable project bike. As I am a potential buyer myself for this upcoming winters Laverda project, i won't venture a guess as to value, do your research first then perhaps we can chat.

If you are in Surrey in the UK then shipping and import costs would make it a non starter for me to consider.

Paul LeClair

Hi Paul,

Indeed I'm in Surrey UK so those costs would make it unviable for you.

 

[Wyatt]

Hi all,
I have finally got around to giving it a wash so it can be seen in all it's glory warts n' all.
It's being opened up to offers, anyone is welcome to come and look over the bike (I'm based in Surrey KT8) there seems to be some interest from a couple of people so photos will go to everyone and best offer wins.There is also a duo seat (standard?) that goes with it.

 

[Wyatt]

Last ones, let me know if you want to see something specific.

 

[piranha-bro2]

Very original looking SF1, Wyatt - maybe that odo reading is even correct. IMHO you'll impress potential buyers a lot more if you fit the original double seat. That single seat looks just so weird ... as if someone has photoshopped it in but at magnification of 1.5!!

Original euro touring bars, a rear mudguard and tail light assembly and you've got an almost ex-factory SF1. Good luck with the sale.

 

[Tippie]

Would then also need the mudguard and tail light assembly. I agree about the look.

 

[Wyatt]

Very original looking SF1, Wyatt - maybe that odo reading is even correct. IMHO you'll impress potential buyers a lot more if you fit the original double seat. That single seat looks just so weird ... as if someone has photoshopped it in but at magnification of 1.5!!

Original euro touring bars, a rear mudguard and tail light assembly and you've got an almost ex-factory SF1. Good luck with the sale.

Thanks, unfortunately although we found a double seat there's no sign of a mudguard. In line with the original photo this would appear to be as it was when it was first purchased.

 

[Laverdalothar]

Just a hint from my side: remove this seat and put the 2 person seat on. Makes a hell of a difference to the look of the bike, believe it or not... That ducktail seat looks just wrong to me on this bike, it is way to high and dominates the rear...

For the rest, it would be interesting if the engine turns, but don't try it until you have removed the spark-plugs, put some decent spray of WD40 or the like into the spark-plug-holes and let it soak for at least 24 hours... the piston rings might have glued themselves to the liners and if you don't do like the above, they might brake with the first attempt of turning the engine...

If the engine turns, it is most likely more a cosmetic restoration, but if not, a complete overhaul with engine apart is on the list. For a potential buyer, that is 5.000 - 7.000 € difference in cost...

 

[Wyatt]

Just a hint from my side: remove this seat and put the 2 person seat on. Makes a hell of a difference to the look of the bike, believe it or not... That ducktail seat looks just wrong to me on this bike, it is way to high and dominates the rear...

For the rest, it would be interesting if the engine turns, but don't try it until you have removed the spark-plugs, put some decent spray of WD40 or the like into the spark-plug-holes and let it soak for at least 24 hours... the piston rings might have glued themselves to the liners and if you don't do like the above, they might brake with the first attempt of turning the engine...

If the engine turns, it is most likely more a cosmetic restoration, but if not, a complete overhaul with engine apart is on the list. For a potential buyer, that is 5.000 - 7.000 € difference in cost...

I have toyed with the idea of this, there doesn't appear to be an obvious point to crank on to turn it. Happy to follow some guidance.

 

[Jo]

I have toyed with the idea of this, there doesn't appear to be an obvious point to crank on to turn it. Happy to follow some guidance.

Simply remove the rhs cover on the engine (4 m6 screws, no oil behind) - then you've access to the nut on the crankshaft.

 

[Tippie]

Use the rear wheel in 3 or 4th gear. The starter clutch nut (RHS) on the crank is reverse thread. Normally this is used for turning over the engine, but if it is stuck you might be best carefully turning the engine over backwards, or might loosen the nut instead.

 

[Laverdalothar]

I have toyed with the idea of this, there doesn't appear to be an obvious point to crank on to turn it. Happy to follow some guidance.

see guidance from Jo and Tippie. It would make a lot of difference in cost for the buyer, which then could be a good argument for a better price and a broader buyer-base (not everyone is keen on stripping engines, but almost everyone can do a cosmetic overhaul...).

 

[Wyatt]

Thanks all, I'll go and whip the plugs out and send a squirt of oil down the bores

 

[Wyatt]

Happy to report, engine turns over by hand and sounds like there's good compression.

 

[general_piffle]

The engine turning over is great news. This looks like it could make a really nice restoration project for someone.