1981 1200 in Spain

Well. I am about to repair the leaking bleeder "housing" and surrounding cracks in the casing. The aluminum solderer I know has said is doable, and should be OK after the repair.

My big question is if the kits for re-drilling and replacing the fitting are still available, and if anybody knows a good source for them. I see Red did them, and Wolfgang had them, but I was wondering if there is a closer source.

Regards. Carlos
 
Well... I wanted to keep the hydraulic clutch  :D

The explanation Red gave years ago in that thread (drilling and an insert) sounded like a brilliant, inexpensive and fast solution. I could even try to machine the inserts locally, if I had the measurements of the actual insert (I?m talking about this:)

24139-fittings.jpg


 
Carlos,

I do have those two parts, waiting to be fitted to my Mirage clutch cover.
I'll dig them out of my parts box, take some measurements and post these later today.
Just one thing:  the parts don't replace the bleeder nipple, but provide a modified clutch hose fitting.

Tom
 
Tom, thank you for the info, regarding the parts, so I can get them machines locally. Yes, I understand the bleeder nipple is a different story; I just want to address all issues in one go, so I don?t hace to go back there in a while.

Actually, measurements based on the picture would be awesome; for machining easiness

Thanks again!
 
Just a bit of an update, in the middle of the clutch cover nightmare...

I got the cover back, thoroughly soldered, and with the bleed nipple housing reconstructed. I?ve not yet been able to get the hose adaptor parts done... but I have trial fitted the cover, and I?ve now realized that I have a slight leak from the clutch cylinder housing. I guess the heat from the soldering has affected in some way the cylinder housing insert... What choices (apart from a new cover) do I have?

Can the insert be extracted and reinstalled?

New insert?

JBweld all over the insert joint?

Starting to get anxious not to be able to use the old lady, now carbs were tip-top (thanks to Piet!).

All advice is welcome. 
 
Well... I realize it has been a long time since last. Last post I mentioned that the clutch cover, after being welded for an exploded bleeder, had somehow distorted, and it was losing fluid from the "hydraulic piston insert" joint. I considered more soldering, or other options, as I was already thinking of a new (Keith?s cover) or even a cable conversion. However, I decided to give it a try with a similar product to JBweld, but with metal properties (Nural 21, not sure if it exists outside Spain). In any case, while it is not pretty, it?s working quite well, as it holds pressure really well so; no more leaks, and clutch pressure again.

Here?s a pic of how it looks like (I?ve now sanded the insert top face, so it won?t interfere with clutch action):



There are still some issues, though...

1.- I?ve been trying to understand why would a washer not fit under my gear change lever cover, as both Grant and Piet said. Well... I?ve now found why. My bike?s previous owner, for whatever reason, installed a non-standard gear spring (it?s a lot wider than the width of the shaft) and a circular contraption, to compensate for such a large spring. See the picture of what my spring looks like:



And this is how it should look like:

selec2.jpg


I guess I have a non-original spring, unless the 1981 1200 laverda used a "special" spring... but it doesn?t seem to be the case, as the fit is awful!

2.- I am having some dragging from the clutch. Actually, I?ve not been able to use the bike yet. I believe the system is completely bled, but I?ve found that my "external" clutch rod is slightly (concave) rounded, and I?m wondering if it will not be a case of "shortened" rod, or even stuck clutch plates.

Whenever I press the clutch, I get a soft "clonk" coming from the clutch area. Occasionally I also get a lone mini-air bubble in the clutch liquid tank.

Comments? Ideas? I?ll keep fighting :-)

Cheers

Carlos


1.-
 
Carlos, Paul will also want you to convert it to points ignition...

Firstly, you can't be certain that your bodge repair has worked perfectly.

Secondly, the wrong spring will affect the gearchange action perhaps, and as you say it is wider, meaning that you can't fit the shims/spacers normally used.

Even with a perfectly working cable clutch the gearchange can best be described as agricultural compared even to Jap equivalents of the era. But maybe it isn't possible to fully bleed your system due to the Nural fix.

The cover you have is very rare, as it was only used on the 1981 and 1982 models (1200TS, Jota, 120 Jota) as far as I'm aware. There will be many more cable type covers available out there if you want to replace.
Alternatively some folk offer conversions to a modern (Aprilia?) slave cylinder mounted where your slave cylinder is, but it would be machined off to make way for the new one, thereby solving your initial problem completely and likely giving a lighter clutch action as well.
I don't know costs but it might work out cheaper than a new one, or a replacement IF you can find one.
 
and of course the first (1200 Anni) of 1979 and 1980 models most types
could even be all 180's from 1979 plus the 120 jota.
CLEM
 
?
79 and 80 were cable.
Anniversary as you say was hydraulic from the start, but how many of them were made (or survive).
I already mentioned the 120 Jota.

Any 79 or 80 triple otherwise was cable unless retrofitted by a DPO.
 
Thank you Grant. The reason I believe my bodge has worked is that it keeps pressure without leaking. I?ve bled and will keep on bleeding the system, including moving the master cylinder around.

Is there a clear way of knowing if clutch drag is caused by:

1.- Clutch not correctly bled
2.- Sticking clutch plates
3.- "shortened" / damaged clutch rod/ball

I will go for one of the Keith?s covers once I can afford one... My bodge is a consequence of my poor finances...

Cheers.

PS: Paul, I?ve located a cable cover, just in case, but I rather keep the hydraulic :-)

Carlos
 
Hydraulic clutch was first fitted to 1200 from VIN #2200 (starting with the 30th anni), these had a 35mm piston.  From VIN #2568 (1200TS by then), piston size was changed to 30mm.  1000 triples were supplied with hydr. clutches from VIN #7277 (30mm).

Knackered ball or rod shouldn't be the cause for clutch drag, unless it has shortened itself enough to let the piston cant/jam in its bore.  But even that wouldn't really be noticed, until the slave cylinder is removed to reveal the ensuing mess.  O-ring condition is vital for a smooth piston action.  Badly worn clutch drum or hub will not allow the plates to move sufficiently to free the clutch, there will always be a couple of plates dragging.  Warped plates can cause similar symptoms, but would also cause a lot of slip under power.  Other possibility is insufficient piston travel, ie, air in the hydraulic system.

piet
 
You were both right again, air in system. After quite a few lever actions, a few bubbles, and a couple of nights with a tied lever, the clutch is now engaging. There is still a little drag, but I can already move the rear wheel with my hand when 1st is engaged and clutch is pulled.

Getting ready again! Thank you!
 
Funny how I keep posting (only) whenever I need help, forgetting so many times to post the good times, which would never take place without all your help and support.

Here are some recent pics, showing the final result of the work done. Bike runs really well, and despite a slight oil leak from the primary cover, everything seems to be cool. The orange has become a complete head-turner. Yesterday we went to Cercedilla, a small town in the mountains near Madrid, with another Laverda, and everybody would stop to take a look.

Here are the pics:
Both Laverdas sitting in Cercedilla:
b0b37151c2a5d5e70475558133491950o.jpg


Standing in Navacerrada...
d1ea5c75f3e35875d56240026266fcd6o.jpg


Contrast! Both are Orange!
bad7c82f6ce8423e2abe8b0b64fd727do.jpg


The day it finally got its MOT (ITV)
ad5675f35cebc5b8ee4055bb8bbf4e7do.jpg


A happy camper I am... nevertheless, I will keep asking questions.

Thanks a lot!

Carlos
 
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