1982 Jota 120 switch gear

rbpjenkins

rbpjenkins

Junior member
Location
Oxfordshire
I gather from archive posts that the switches are Suzuki GT switches. Mine is having digital ignition fitted and apparently the innards of the switches are very worn, especially the kill switch. I can see old GT switches likely not to be just as knackered or ‘new’ but bonkers money (£250) for LH switch. I’m not constrained by original wiring so, what’s consensus on a good solution? Not going to be picky about absolute originality as long as they look in keeping and ideally benefit from being modern innards. Thanks
 

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Know the ND switch gear well, came on my new 1973 Kettle, dismantled and refurbished more than the odd ones, for the 5 Laverda triples at one time. The actual spring material and contact are robust, the compression coil springs can fail or deform, replacements can be fabricated. Unless you have plastic deformation to contend with, the mechanicals can be restored, not sure that helps...j
 
rbpjenkins said:
I gather from archive posts that the switches are Suzuki GT switches. Mine is having digital ignition fitted and apparently the innards of the switches are very worn, especially the kill switch. I can see old GT switches likely not to be just as knackered or ‘new’ but bonkers money (£250) for LH switch. I’m not constrained by original wiring so, what’s consensus on a good solution? Not going to be picky about absolute originality as long as they look in keeping and ideally benefit from being modern innards. Thanks
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What has digital ignition got to do with it?

Paul
 
It can be hard to find a left-side switch block with lights on and OFF switch, most modern switch blocks don't have that with compulsory lights on all the time. Push-to-cancel blinkers are nice to have as well.
 
There out there Vince, you just need to take time out from fiddling with suspension settings and find them like I did😀
Tom
 
The guy doing the electrics (Rupe's Rewires, quality work) sent these pics of replacements he's done in the past: first 2 are Yamaha, 3rd one Kawasaki, available new as good quality reproduction parts for about £70 for the pair. Personally I prefer the Kawasaki look, more like the original but I'm not precious about originality in this department: it's not like the switches were Italian works of art in the first place!
 

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Mine was Serlocked, you need to decipher the original bike wiring to the completely different bar switch wiring, probably 20 years ago with a headlight on-off switch and push-to-cancel blinkers. The biggest bike wreaker in NSW where I found the bits to do that I discovered a couple of weeks back closed for good during Covid, Metropolitan Spares in Silverwater. Without the bits doing any of this is very hard to do. BTW one of the most common mods to USA model KTMs is buying and importing European versions of their left switch block because the Euro version has a headlight on-off switch. It's all good Tom, I can chew gum and walk at the same time.
 
be aware that not all Suzuki switches or Laverda fitted ND are the same, even if they look the same, some can be altered to suit, with normally open circuits converted to normally closed (or vice versa, by simply unsoldering one of two wires ending at a three tag point, and soldering it to a previously unused tag,(or was that the Lucas ones on SF1?) but the difference between 180 triples (single phase alternator) and 120 triples, (three phase alternator) is that the light switch brings in the third coil of the alternator for a direct feed, this doent happen on the 180 triples, so the switches are different.

Did Roger sort out the leaky clutch slave? which was mystifying him a bit
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
be aware that not all Suzuki switches or Laverda fitted ND are the same, even if they look the same, some can be altered to suit, with normally open circuits converted to normally closed (or vice versa, by simply unsoldering one of two wires ending at a three tag point, and soldering it to a previously unused tag,(or was that the Lucas ones on SF1?) but the difference between 180 triples (single phase alternator) and 120 triples, (three phase alternator) is that the light switch brings in the third coil of the alternator for a direct feed, this doent happen on the 180 triples, so the switches are different.

Did Roger sort out the leaky clutch slave? which was mystifying him a bit
CLEM
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noted and thanks. and Roger found a very elegant solution to the clutch issue: " I have resolved with the help of the engineers (JDM) who rectified the crankcase of your Laverda. They engineered (micro engineering) the fitting of a "Timesert" into the bleed nipple hole, recut the bottom of the hole to 45degrees and refaced the nipple to effect a perfect seal. I then obtained a new clutch lifter piston to replace the corroded one, obtained and fitted an "O" ring with a larger section than original, plus made from EPDM spec material." images attached
 

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update on the wiring work but shows the replaced switches which I think look in keeping: is the yellow lettering OK on a red and green bike or should I get the painted white or red :)
 

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