280mm front discs from my 3CL vs EBC Discs

Laverdaton said:
Is there any difference between the standard 280mm front disc and the EBC pattern ones?
or, what advantage do the EBC's have over the standard discs?

Andy
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Standard ones are probably worn thin, new EBC ones are much meater in comparison to your worn out ones.  :P
 
Andy,The main benefit is they won't leave red rusty streaks all over your polished fork legs... the downside is they are a bit heavier than the standard discs.
 
the downside is they are a bit heavier than the standard discs.
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Are you sure about that?  The o/e discs are the heaviest things made by man.  Probably.

And didn't we just have a discussion about EBC discs?  Anyway, to answer the OP, the EBCs work better, especially with HH pads and especially especially in the wet.  That said, I think using organic carbon pads in Brembo four pots with the o/e discs is the best upgrade, and a deal cheaper than buying EBC discs.  This set up on my RGS was luvverly.
 
Reggie3cl said:
Are you sure about that?  The o/e discs are the heaviest things made by man.  Probably.

And didn't we just have a discussion about EBC discs?  Anyway, to answer the OP, the EBCs work better, especially with HH pads and especially especially in the wet.  That said, I think using organic carbon pads in Brembo four pots with the o/e discs is the best upgrade, and a deal cheaper than buying EBC discs.  This set up on my RGS was luvverly.
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Reggie

Your wrong about the original discs being the heaviest things made my man.  It's actually the thick web cast wheels, their made from lead with some sort of heavy lead filling!
 
Well my feeling is that the original wheels and discs should be for display purposes only... :o
 
Quite sure! In contrast to the thick web wheels Laverda's thin web wheels are surprisingly light, same weight as an Astralite in fact. The OE discs are so heavy it masks how light the original Laverda thin web wheel is. I seem to recall the thick web is almost a kilo heavier. Of course the the thin webs are also a bit malleable which is the downside. They work great on a 500 track bike but I wouldn't be so keen clattering over potholes on a big 'ol Jota with them.
 
Do you use the rear Jota thin web on the 500 Bob? I'm asking because that was the plan of the guy who bought a rear wheel from me.
 
Hi Pat,
Yes I did, but there was a bit of buggering about to get it to fit, I can't remember exactly what but I seem to recall the bearings needed recessing by about 10mm and the cush drive needed modifying. There were two reasons I wanted the thin web for the 500, the first was weight and the second was it enabled me to fit a 130 tyre on the rear wheel -the 3C thin web is slightly wider than the 500.
As it happened Avon then introduced a cantilever wall 130 tyre specifically for fitting to narrow rims but I probably would have done the conversion anyway in order to save the weight.
Early 500s had thin webs but I've never seen any for sale so I presume they're quite rare.
 
I used to have  cast iron disc rotors made to replicate the early triple/750 ones from roundels of a special continuosly cast bar. They worked well - but one customer said he took them off as, in the rain, the rust splattered onto the front of his motor  >:( >:( - Regards - Phil
 

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phil37 said:
I used to have  cast iron disc rotors made to replicate the early triple/750 ones from roundels of a special continuosly cast bar. They worked well - but one customer said he took them off as, in the rain, the rust splattered onto the front of his motor  >:( >:( - Regards - Phil
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The sort of client who shouldn't be riding in the rain.
Paul
 
phil37 said:
I used to have  cast iron disc rotors made to replicate the early triple/750 ones from roundels of a special continuosly cast bar. They worked well - but one customer said he took them off as, in the rain, the rust splattered onto the front of his motor  >:( >:( - Regards - Phil
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Disc-braked Triumphs in the 70's solved this by using chrome-plated discs.

My experience of them (T160 Trident, single disc each at the front and rear) was that any semblance of braking performance disappeared at the first sprinkle of rain. In traffic i would start braking a couple of hundred metres before red traffic lights, and be checking the gaps between the cars just in case I couldn't stop in time. Decided it was safer to turn around and go home instead (then have the chrome plating removed by my friendly machinist).

Cheers,

bazzee
 
bazzee said:
Disc-braked Triumphs in the 70's solved this by using chrome-plated discs.

My experience of them (T160 Trident, single disc each at the front and rear) was that any semblance of braking performance disappeared at the first sprinkle of rain. In traffic i would start braking a couple of hundred metres before red traffic lights, and be checking the gaps between the cars just in case I couldn't stop in time. Decided it was safer to turn around and go home instead (then have the chrome plating removed by my friendly machinist).

Cheers,

bazzee
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For those of us who did not take the option of machining, we progressed from no brakes in the rain to something that felt like ABS as the chrome wore off half the disc and the cast iron bit every half turn..Then to no chrome as it completely wore off, which gave us the brakes back...... which is where we started  :-X  
 
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