38mm Ceriani correct length?

[T.C]

Can someone please tell me what the factory length of 38mm Ceriani fork tubes on a 74 3c was?
I have searched and cant find a definitive answer. I have two different lengths from two people both of whom I would believe, however they cant both be right.
I have a set of NOS that are 608mm long and haven't yet pulled my original forks apart to measure.
Thanks in advance.
Tom

 

[Paul Marx]

It is given as 595mm.

Paul

 

[Gravelroad]

AFAIK the 608mm are for a Ducati.

 

[2622]

What you didn't believe me or was it you didnt like my answer.  595 for your bike it aint no Ducrappy

 

[Vince]

I expect there are 2 fixes, cut them down and rethread. Or shock horror, clip-on handlebars and let them poke through.

 

[CLEMTOG]

we are only talking 13mm here!
poke 'em through!
sell or swap.
3 alternatives.
CLEM

 

[2622]

we are only talking 13mm here!
poke 'em through!
CLEM

Not with stock bars can ya but you could always then put Ducati bars on aswell and may as well drop off a pot whilst your at it.
Or you could always have 1/2 an inch machined off them 

 

[laverdas]

we are only talking 13mm here!
poke 'em through!
sell or swap.
3 alternatives.
CLEM

clem, 13mm to some girls is bliss.

 

[chrisk]

clem, 13mm to some girls is bliss.

Clem said length, not girth.

 

[T.C]

Thanks for that guys, Brett you know its cause I didnt like your answer not that I dont trust you :-*
will probably cut them down but not until i measure the existing ones.
alternatively I could just buy a Ducati : :
Cheers
Tom

 

[Vince]

You're going to need a big enough Lath to pear it off, but can you cut an internal thread with a lath or do you need a massive tap of the correct thread. Striping that thread has always scared me silly.

 

[motoddrob]

Hey Vince, I'd a thought you'd cut it off the bottom then only need to machine a groove for the circlip  rather than the thread on the top.

 

[Vince]

Good point, whats the critical dimension that needs to be kept re damping rod.Bottom to the damper or top to the damper.

 

[Tippie]

Hey Vince, I'd a thought you'd cut it off the bottom then only need to machine a groove for the circlip  rather than the thread on the top.

And increase the depth for the damper valve insert.

 

[motoddrob]

And increase the depth for the damper valve insert.

Nothing is ever easy!!

 

[Dellortoman]

And increase the depth for the damper valve insert.

Still a much easier machining operation than extending the thread on the top end.

 

[breganzane]

Thread cutting is not rocket surgery, you learn it in 1st year apprentice school.  If the machinist you select (including yourself) can not cut a thread he probably shouldn't be cutting the groove either.  The circlip at the bottom is the only thing holding the whole shebang from popping off the end of the fork when exuberance strikes. 
And besides, it's debatable which end is better to shorten remembering you'd be cutting through the chrome layer.  The top is exposed to weather but on the other hand the bottom is the most highly loaded point on a sliding linear plain bearing with very expensive bushes (the fork legs)...
Might be a case where flogging them and getting the correct part is the best option.

 

[Dellortoman]

You could avoid messing with the circlip groove or the thread by taking a piece out of the middle.

 

[motoddrob]

                                                                  "Might be a case where flogging them and getting the correct part is the best option."

Given my experience with after market stanchions available I'd prefer to mod the NOS item.
A marzo one that I brought had imperfections on the bottom edge that would bind in the leg. when I put a dial gauge on it it wan't even round.
4000 kays later and very little rain use I just noticed that the chrome had pitted in places in the exposed areas that slide in the fork seal.
Very poor quality IMHO