3CL clutch replacement
- Thread starter Various
- Start date
Ernesto
Hero member
- Location
- Hamburg, Germany
Are you sure you want to change the springs?
If so, replace only every second one.
Check the steel plates for warpage and if the
bar that activates the clutch is run in, turn it
at least 90?.
Ernesto
If so, replace only every second one.
Check the steel plates for warpage and if the
bar that activates the clutch is run in, turn it
at least 90?.
Ernesto
mauricejota7604
Hero member
- Location
- Victoria Australia
Gday matt there are a number of things to be prepared for while you are in there.
1. Clutch cush drive rubbers (they sit behind a plate that secures the drive sprocket) most likely rivetted on.
2. Primary chain. adjuster slipper (check for heavy grooving) and don't misplace tension spring.
3. Primary chain. (replacement to duplex or 2 singles)
4. Alignment of crank sprockett and clutch sprocket (shimming of drum)
5. Reassembly of pressure plate to ensure correct engagemnr on the inner drum, it will only go on in two positions.
6. Inspect condition of inner splines in the drum.
Good luck.
1. Clutch cush drive rubbers (they sit behind a plate that secures the drive sprocket) most likely rivetted on.
2. Primary chain. adjuster slipper (check for heavy grooving) and don't misplace tension spring.
3. Primary chain. (replacement to duplex or 2 singles)
4. Alignment of crank sprockett and clutch sprocket (shimming of drum)
5. Reassembly of pressure plate to ensure correct engagemnr on the inner drum, it will only go on in two positions.
6. Inspect condition of inner splines in the drum.
Good luck.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Just a further note on Maurice's second point:
Don't be alarmed if you find heavy grooving on the primary chain tensioner slipper. They normally look like that.
The side plates of the chain wear through the rubber (plastic?) until the chain rollers contact the slipper surface. As long as the part where the rollers run against the slipper isn't worn down it'll be fine. Check the thickness of the slipper material against an un-worn part.
If you install a new slipper, you'll find that the chain tension will need regular adjusting until the grooves are fully bedded in, then it'll settle down and only need adjusting occasionally.
Don't be alarmed if you find heavy grooving on the primary chain tensioner slipper. They normally look like that.
The side plates of the chain wear through the rubber (plastic?) until the chain rollers contact the slipper surface. As long as the part where the rollers run against the slipper isn't worn down it'll be fine. Check the thickness of the slipper material against an un-worn part.
If you install a new slipper, you'll find that the chain tension will need regular adjusting until the grooves are fully bedded in, then it'll settle down and only need adjusting occasionally.
All the above, and also....I've just put new Kevlar plates in my 3cl and the clutch does not quite disengage before the actuator arm hits the casing. I have been advised that this is an indication of wear in the actuation rods in the mainshaft and they will need to be replaced as well.
Advice received re the springs was that springs on the minimum length with Kevlar plates would be ok.
Regards, Greg
Advice received re the springs was that springs on the minimum length with Kevlar plates would be ok.
Regards, Greg
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
while you are at it, check also the ball on the Clutch actuation side, the ball between the two actuation rods and the rods itself.
Greg,
Most often the cross-bar that pushes the pressure plate has a neat hole worn in it. Did you check while the clutch was apart? Unless the clutch has been badly abused, wear at the rod ends and the bearing are negligable.
The cross bar/pushrod contact is the least lubed part in the actuating train. Normally, the rod will spin with the cross bar, but if there is the least bit of friction between the rods and bearing, the cross bar and rod will start to rub.
piet
Most often the cross-bar that pushes the pressure plate has a neat hole worn in it. Did you check while the clutch was apart? Unless the clutch has been badly abused, wear at the rod ends and the bearing are negligable.
The cross bar/pushrod contact is the least lubed part in the actuating train. Normally, the rod will spin with the cross bar, but if there is the least bit of friction between the rods and bearing, the cross bar and rod will start to rub.
piet
sfcpiet said:
Thanks for the response Piet. My memory of the crossbar was that it had a minor mark/indent only. Maybe the new Kevlar plates are marginally thicker than oem. I didn't measure them at the time, and I'm not going to pull it apart again for a while.
Motor has to come out soon anyhow. Head gasket leaking oil from the timing chain gallery. Will be checking crankcase pressure, oil breather ect first. Might only be wasps in the breather...
Regards, Greg
D
Davo
Guest
Gotta be careful there Greg. A wasp nest in a pitot tube brought down a Boeing 757.