3CL DID chain. 530VX or 530ZVM-X

Haven't lubed a chain since '95 on any chain drive bike I've owned, the O (X) rings keep the lube in, the rollers roll and I occasionally clean the chain with WD40. Bike stays clean and chain/sprocket life is great. Any lube just attracts dirt/road grime to create a grinding paste IMHO.

Stu
 
I'm with Andy on this one; Been running the same KIWI "O" ring for 20 years on my SF. Rather heavy and does slow down shifts but with Diesel Fuel with Detergent and Air plus Silicon Spray has lasted me over the years with minimal stretch. Very dependable and doesn't hurt the sprockets
 
Mmmhhh - Looking at the video again, DID defenitely recomends a SLIGHT oiling/greasing also on the X- and O-Ring Chains. Andy, that was not a pic, it is a video. Take a look at it, please, the DID technichian describes how to clean and service a chain, including X, O and Z-Ring sealed chains.
 
Dellortoman said:
Yeah, it kinda goes against everything you know about metal to metal contact to let it run dry.
It's a mental thing, like eating fried spiders. There's nothing wrong with it but the programming in my brain won't let me do it  :D
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Yep. It's a mental thing, obviously. Like having sex without pjur bodyglide (pjur.com for those that don't know).

So, I'm trying to get this straight in my head.

Wash the chain with diesel engine oil, not diesel, every 500klm, or after a wet weather ride. And that's it? Say I'm going to do a 2500klm ride soon. Will it last? What maintenance during that run?

No spray on lubes like the Motuls and Castrols ect ect that we have all used for eternity? So how do I get them off the chain??

Definately not water blaster. CT18 watered down, hose and rag, plus of course the toothbrush?

I'm glad I'm putting a new chain on the 3CL, but now I've got a couple of "red eared donkeys" ( love that reference) and a couple of KTM's to reverse the process with.

Maybe I should rub the chains with bodyglide. It's silicon based....I think.

Regards, Greg

 
I like to lightlty lube with a thin oil. To cushion the roller-to-bush sufaces, quitening the drive take-up. Also, whilst its true that there is little relative movement between bush>roller>sprocket, this is only true when the geometry is perfect (and the sprocket especialy is well machined, to correct tolerances). Once a bit of wear takes hold there will be more and more relative movement. Whilst the movements are slight, the forces are high.
 
ghwallice said:
hose and rag, plus of course the toothbrush?
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Last time I tried to clean a chain with a toothbrush, I had the bike idling in gear to keep the chain moving while I scrubbed with the toothbrush. I went a bit too close to the countershaft sprocket while doing the bottom run of chain and the brush went between chain and sprocket. The idling engine dragged it around the sprocket and spat chewed-up  bits of toothbrush out the other side. I had to buy a new toothbrush so I could clean my teeth. 
 
Whilst I can't fault the introduction and general positive attributes of o-ring chains (and their subsequent derivatives) I have to admit to being disappointed tins of Duckhams chain grease aren't available any more.. It was something of a monthly ritual to split a chain; connect to an old one whilst running the chain off; hang it from the shed roof and rub it down with a wire brush; rinse with Paraffin and allow to dry whilst warming up the Duckhams on the stove whilst granny was down at the shops :o ; simmer for ? hr whilst attending to the oil/air filters and associated changes; rehang in the shed to drain the excess and cool (checking tyres/spokes bulbs/horn points etc) and then refit.. Have never been persuaded that spray on lubes do anything other than make a mess and shift wealth to the spray manufacturer... hey ho. ::) ::)
 
After fitting new chain and sprockets, riding to Sydney (950Klms + Putty Rd, in rain most of the way and half way back to Brisbane, the drumming type vibration from the bike was driving me crazy ............. pulled in at a servo, bought some chain lube and before reaching top gear problem was fixed. This no lube on a chain is poppycock.

Although, look at Jota pictured in March in this years callendar. That nylon rear sprocket was the quietest and longest lasting sprocket/chain-set ever. Chain ran dry most of the time, and it got a hammering too.
 
chrisk said:
That nylon rear sprocket was the quietest and longest lasting sprocket/chain-set ever. Chain ran dry most of the time, and it got a hammering too.
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I put a plastic sprocket on my Kawasaki Z1 many years ago. I was sceptical but the salesman offered a money back guarantee so I gave it a try. It was the lightest, quietest, longest lasting sprocket I ever had. Never wore the teeth at all. It eventually failed after many thousands of km by developing small radial cracks. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat but haven't seen them for sale for decades.
 
This thread prompted me to have a look at YouTube.  OMG what a collection of videos describing all manner of lube systems!  Many are hilarious and would do Rube Goldberg proud!
I'm convinced a bit of oil on even an O-ring chain can be a good thing.  However, I must admit I don't quite understand the value of diesel oil.  I can understand high detergent motor oil can be useful with deposits from combustion.  But surly a motorcycle drive chain is far removed from combustion by-products.  Wouldn't any oil do just as well for the periodic swipe after riding?
I had a look at the DID video.  DID says chains are harmed by ultraviolet light?  Isn't that a bit over the top?  :o
 
Probably talking about the O-rings, that's what did in Plastic house guttering and made most roof sealing products UV resistant. With the Laverda chain guard you can hardly see my chain so I doubt that's happening much even in extreme  OZ sun
 
andychain said:
Andy

Putoline do the same wax
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Andy, I very much like the idea of a non-O chain for my bikes. What do you recommend as lube for them? And do you think a non-O IWIS in 520 will be adequate for a bombed up Laverda SF?
 
Quentin,

I've been using an o-ring-less #520 on my triple for several years.  Lasts just as long (or short, depending if you're an optimist or pessimist...) as the previously used #530.  Never been a fan of o-, x-, z- or whatever-ring chains, always seem to be knackered prematurely and never hold up to the makers claims of longevity.

Normal chain spray and a clean now and then, works OK for me.  I don't expect it to live forever...

piet
 
Pirana

Should have stayed with 530, the iwis is very narrow 19.5 mm and 20.9 at the connector
compare against jap 520 and Oring.

Iwis do not do 520 so no chromised pins available.

Also light at .95 kg/mt.

Andy
 
I was thinking that maybe a chain oiler is really a sprocket oiler i.e. it's purpose is to stop the sprocket wearing as opposed to the chain. I totally agree with Andy (who supplies all my chains) that a sealed chain doesn't need lube but then maybe the worn sprocket knackers the chain so should be lubed to slow this wear rate down?

Worse thing I did was to clean an o ring chain with paraffin on a regular basis (I remember MCN recommended this) - washed all the lube out, chain snapped and put a hole in the crankcases!

Nick :-(
 
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