4 Piston brembo calipers ?

Davo said:
bob said:
Having read this I went on to the Bevel site to double check, at ?135 [?80 quid give or take] the complete FO8 calipers sound like a bit of a bargain, in fact I'm going to order a pair! Why pay $113 for a rebuild kit when you can have a complete caliper for another $20, or am I missing something?
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Depends how "genuine" you want the look and whether you have Ceriani or Marzocchi forks as these calipers do not have 10mm threaded mounting holes or twin bleed nipples.
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You're right about the twin bleed nipples for the rear caliper, but it didn't worry me too much as I think you'd have to be what the poms call "an anorak" to worry about that.  The rear caliper does not need the threaded holes, because on the Jota at least it bolts through to the threaded carrier. 
I elected to recondition the fronts, as it meant I didn't have to go to a longer bolt and retaining nut (or a helicoil or similar solution).  Each front took me about 30 minutes, including farting around hooking up the master cyclinder to pump the pistons out - no compressed air available at home......
 
I was tossing up sticking with the original look, but since Red is breathing hard on the engine and it will have non standard carbs and air filter, and already has non standard shocks, in the end I thought stuff it. More power needs better brakes even if I don't ride like a 23yo twit any more. I'll eventually get kits and do up the F08s and stick em in a parts box in case future generations decide they want the original look.

I never intended the bike to be concourse standard anyway and have never owned an anorak :D
 
Davo said:
I was tossing up sticking with the original look, but since Red is breathing hard on the engine and it will have non standard carbs and air filter, and already has non standard shocks, in the end I thought stuff it. More power needs better brakes even if I don't ride like a 23yo twit any more. I'll eventually get kits and do up the F08s and stick em in a parts box in case future generations decide they want the original look.

I never intended the bike to be concourse standard anyway and have never owned an anorak :D
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Dunno why you'd need more brakes......  My brother, whose Jota I am restoring, once stood the Jota on its front wheel in a panic stop at about 150kmh on the reoad between Gawler and Two Wells, near Adelaide (South Australia).  It was a hot day and he and our mate Stewie were out for a fang when a farmer chucked a right hand turn in front of Marty.  This would be in the mid 80's.  Stewie was a bit behind on his Suzuki, and it was the first time he had ever seen a 'stoppie'.  We didn't stop hearing about it for some time.
Had Pirelli Phantoms on it at the time I reckon.
 
PO8s are powerful enough if you can crack walnuts in your bare hands, but 4 pots give more power for less pull and loads more feel.

 
Reggie3cl said:
PO8s are powerful enough if you can crack walnuts in your bare hands, but 4 pots give more power for less pull and loads more feel.
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You're right about that!  Got Brembo goldlines on my Guzzi with aftermarket wave rotors and it's a one-finger job even when slowing from high speeds.
But the muscular F08s grab plenty well, and there's a lot to be said for having the best combination of calipers and master cylinder.  IMHO the role of the master cylinder often gets overlooked when people go looking for more stopping power.
 
Yeah, though it seems to me that the ratios are easier to correct at the caliper end.  Change to a 13mm bore m/cyl and the PO8s have power and feel to spare, but the lever travel is definitely on the long side, whereas the standard m/cyl and 4 pots gives a nice compromise.

Perhaps using a later design m/cyl (radial type maybe) is the answer to improving things without ditching the calipers.
 
Hi Reggie and all,
that is exactly the point: the ratio of the 16mm Master with the F08 does not work. A 14mm would be ideal (just as on the hydraulic clutches it would be the best compromise between actuation force and travel, at least on the RGS and SFC). Wonder why there are no 14mm available, just 13, 15 and 16mm ...  >:(
 
Funny thing is, the brakes on my RGS are a fair bit better than they were on my 180 when I was running the same o/e setup.  I haven't touched the calipers on the current bike, the ones on my 180 were rebuilt as was the m/cyl.  Only difference is the discs are drilled on the RGS, which shouldn't make any difference.

Remembered now; 14mm m/cyl is available from Nissin.  I had 16mm Nissin on the 180 with the 4 pots, looked fine, but then I'm not an originality freak. First good reason to fit the Nissin was the span adjuster on the lever.  http://www.fwr.co.uk/ster&br.htm

16mm Nissin:

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Still going to throw it all away and put GSXR wheels, discs and Brembo 4 pots on.  It's the only way to go. :D
 
you can easily use the 65 mm spaced four pot calipers as well.

GuzziTech in California has adaptors for the 40 mm spaced calipers, and now also has the adaptors made up for 65 mm spaced calipers. Check the GuzziTech site, or on eBay U.S.A.

http://www.guzzitech.com/store/Brakeadapt65.html

Ed Milich is good to deal with.

Paul LeClair
 
The 08's work really well with a 14mm m/cylinder.

Peter Pastars 1200 in my avatar has a secondhand Aprilia 14mm m/c fitted
and the GS1000 I look after has 08's with a 14mm m/c off a Suzuki GS450 fitted

The brave/mad young pilot of the GS was recently seen to pass an RG500 Mk4 on the brakes.....once.
And yes, he can do stoppies on the great beast.
 
These are also nice. I believe that the bike belonged to Neil who travelled on his 1200 from one of the Scandinavian countries to last years International at Baskerville.

Scrumpy

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Why the cable ties round the sliders?
Surely they are not holding on the front mudguard?
 
Looks like it Grant. I have a similar SFC style mudguard which, if used, employs jubilee clips so I was told. Not to keen on the idea though.

Scrumpy
 
Maybe the mudguard is mounted at the fork brace and the cable ties are just to secure the normal mounting points to the legs to stop them flapping about.
 
Can't say for sure but looking at this photo it looks like the mudguard is secured by the tie wraps alone.

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thats a sfc guard there is a rubber bit between the guard and the leg originally they were held on with hose clamps

i guess cable ties dont scratch the leg
 
SFC guards are held on by hose clips, if you're fussy about the fork leg all you do is put a piece of inner tube behind the clip. I've found that the double width hose clips are the best and need less pressure to secure the guard. I donn't like the idea of tie wraps at all because I doubt if you can get adequate pressure on them. I'd hate to have a mudguard work loose at 120mph....

Mudguardmount.jpg
 
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