500 Clutch control
- Thread starter sfcrgs
- Start date
sfcrgs
Senior member
- Location
- Vend?e (France)
Personally I prefer a cable to the reasons given by Bob.
As I said here, a cable on my SFC 750 is softer than a hydraulic system on my 1000 RGS.
It must also be said that a cable can break without warning, then a seal will often flee before the break ...
My question is what will be the easiest for my "pretty daughter" :-*
do you think a "normal" clutch 500 is it more or less hard that a 750 with extension?
Bertrand
PS: Paul, merci pour ta r?ponse au sujet du manuel 500, je vais me mettre au boulot
As I said here, a cable on my SFC 750 is softer than a hydraulic system on my 1000 RGS.
It must also be said that a cable can break without warning, then a seal will often flee before the break ...
My question is what will be the easiest for my "pretty daughter" :-*
do you think a "normal" clutch 500 is it more or less hard that a 750 with extension?
Bertrand
PS: Paul, merci pour ta r?ponse au sujet du manuel 500, je vais me mettre au boulot
sfcrgs said:Personally I prefer a cable to the reasons given by Bob.
As I said here, a cable on my SFC 750 is softer than a hydraulic system on my 1000 RGS.
It must also be said that a cable can break without warning, then a seal will often flee before the break ...
My question is what will be the easiest for my "pretty daughter" :-*
do you think a "normal" clutch 500 is it more or less hard that a 750 with extension?
Bertrand
PS: Paul, merci pour ta r?ponse au sujet du manuel 500, je vais me mettre au boulot
Je t'en prie Bertrand et peux te confirmer qu'une commande d'embrayage standard de 500 est l?g?re compar? ? ce que nous connaissons.
Paul
CLEMTOG
Hero member
The frictional losses of a hydraulic clutch are much lower than a cable one,you will never get a jerky action with hydraulic, but frequently get it with cable even squeaky, I prefer hydraulic.The cracking cases on triples can be dealt with easilly,and permanently, Triumph master cylinders work well on triples (I have one so does the old Duffer) this also offers lighter pull as well as costing under 20 sovs, thereby preserving the original Brembo.I always carry a spare O ring or two for the clutch slave cylinder (700% less space than a spare cable) and fluid is available wherever you find petrol being sold, the seals rarely fail completely, although this can happen, but with cables they usually do fail completely, I have ridden many miles giving the master cylinder a top up every fuel fill, and unlike NICKDAV7 (who is a pipe smoking slipper wearing BMW rider) I can ride almost all day long without the clutch being able to disengage, just so long as it doesnt slip.
CLEM
CLEM
sonicboom500
Hero member
I had problems with the original clutch cables on my Monty.
Attaching a cable which relies on lubrication to the bottom of a very hot engine above a cooking hot exhaust does not present
the ideal environment for long life. Oxidised oil and rusty exposed cables do nothing for smooth operation.
I switched over to Venhill featherlight cables which have a teflon sleeve and use a stainless cable.
The old cables usually failed at the pinch barrel connector on the actuating arm or at the lever.
I cover both these parts in copaslip and carry a spare universal inner and barrel connector in the bottom of the seat hump.
It requires only a screwdriver to change them, takes minutes and you are back like new.
Attaching a cable which relies on lubrication to the bottom of a very hot engine above a cooking hot exhaust does not present
the ideal environment for long life. Oxidised oil and rusty exposed cables do nothing for smooth operation.
I switched over to Venhill featherlight cables which have a teflon sleeve and use a stainless cable.
The old cables usually failed at the pinch barrel connector on the actuating arm or at the lever.
I cover both these parts in copaslip and carry a spare universal inner and barrel connector in the bottom of the seat hump.
It requires only a screwdriver to change them, takes minutes and you are back like new.