630 to 530 conversion

Thanks Crispin, it is very strange but Haggis used exactly the same comment about the chain I fitted to his FJ1200 this weekend......FLUID ?????

Have got a phycic (cant spell) link?

Andy
 
My experience with the Regina 520 chain is exactly opposite to Crispins. Laverda Corse run 520 Regina [Grand prix spec] will complete a four hour endurance race with no problems whatsoever. I ran a 520 on my spaceframe with excellent results. I've been offered free chains to race with by a couple of distributors but I prefer to buy Regina, which I think is a pretty good endorsement!

I know lots of guys who race modern litre bikes with 150bhp+ who use 520 chain and don't have excessive wear problems. The weight difference between a Regina 530 and a 520 is nearer half a pound in English money [200gms]. That's quite a lot of reciprocating mass.

I agree that a 520 on a road bike is unlikely to provide a benefit over a 530, but for a race bike I think it's a worthwhile saving.
I'm not at all sure about nickel plated chains, no point in producing a nice chain and then making it more brittle
 
bob said:
The weight difference between a Regina 530 and a 520 is nearer half a pound in English money [200gms]. That's quite a lot of reciprocating mass.
Click to expand...

And an aluminium 520 rear sprocket is much lighter than the steel 530, and that is also a lot less of unsprung weight.
 
Ludi Boba said:
bob said:
The weight difference between a Regina 530 and a 520 is nearer half a pound in English money [200gms]. That's quite a lot of reciprocating mass.
Click to expand...

And an aluminium 520 rear sprocket is much lighter than the steel 530, and that is also a lot less of unsprung weight.
Click to expand...

Why not use an aluminum 530 sprocket the difference is negligible. The original question was about 630 to 530 conversion so the way I figure it this isn't an all out race application looking for every last ounce of reduced reciprocating mass.

By the way the difference in weight between the Regina 520 Grand Prix Spec and the 530 M106SL is 139g. Our times on the track weren't reduced with the difference of this reciprocating mass, as they say the stop watch doesn't lie.

Bob, I take on board your comments and guess we've had different experiences...

 
Front sprocket and rear aluminium one made to fit 520 chain by OCT , chain i am using is DID 520 ERV X Ring for about 10000km on road and track with no significant wear . Frend of mine uses same chain for whole season on GSXR100 in 2007 and won both Croatian and Alpe Adria Chamionship , whole season with one chain and wear was not big .
Name of this man is Sasa Kranjec .
 
Those 630's take chunks out of stuff...but more than size, its the joining up of the chain that concerns me. I still stick to springlinks 9and have never had a problem), but  had great problems getting the right one for a gold side plated chain sourced through Andy. I am not confident of joining  a rivet link...its too important to get it wrong, easy i think to get too tight. had Keith join it when up it was up in Glasgow. am I just being a woos..I bought a joining tool, and reckon the hollow rivet  type would be easy, but am not confident about the solid type...and you need the right plates for the particular chain....i guess practice would make perfect, but when you've never done one and chain replacement doesn't come round very often, you can see the  problem?
Nick7
 
hi
just ordered 630 to 530 sprockets to convert my 1978 gs750 and 1983 rgs to 530.now my suzuki,laverda ,moto morini,and both triumphs will all be running the same size chain,makes it easier to keep one spare chain of the longest length.will see andy at kempton about a nickel plated chain.
neale
 
Bob, speaking of sprockets, what do you do about front sprockets for your racebike.? I've got a 14t 520 and 15t 520 at present, but no spares.. and boy does this Monty love getting into my spares box..
Any advice about where I can get some..??
Haven't noticed any results about your last outing..(haven't had time since our last to be honest, trust you went well), but my little girl fired up well last weekend, qualified on pole, and went on to win.. then dumped a couple of posts in the clutch drum.. :o
Oh well, back to the spares box again.. :D
Ciao and thanks
Ian
 
Hi Ian, Front sprockets are a bit of a problem at the moment. I've found AFAM replacements with the correct spline size [I think they're XT500 yam] but they always seem to have the wrong drillings or offset. Drilling new mounting holes in a hardened sprocket can quickly sap your will to live. Tom [Eatman] was looking into getting some made, basically you need a 14 and a 15 ,plus maybe a 13 and you'll have most options covered.

Regarding the last outing it was covered here http://laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,81976.0.html
I've also done my regular piece for Classic Bike which will be out in 2 days time. I save the best pics for the magazine and I'm hoping they use one I had showing all three Laverda 500s pitching into a bend in line astern [with my bike at the front :D], not often you'll see three Laverda 500s dukeing it out on a on a race track nowadays.

My bike's in bits now getting prepped for Spa. I need to give Team Rufus a lesson in physics and demonstrate how 70bhp+149KG+small frontal area can go faster than a bulbous 200kg lump :D :D :D
 
Bob I have had no complaints regarding the sprockets from B&C Express and as far as I know they are stock.

Refs are in previuos posting.

Andy
 
Andy,
The sprockets on the 500 are a smaller shaft size than the triples and as far as know B&C don't carry them. I'll contact them just in case because yoiu never know....
Thnaks, Bob
 
If there is a problem contact Simon at Nametab Eng, he has had race front sprockets for a Harris spark eroded for me. Not a lot of money and the finnish is great. He will also retooth your old sprocket which is an easy way to change gearing at the same time.

Andy

 
Hi all,
Just want to add my experience with going from o-ring 630, steel gearings, to DID 530 ZM x-ring (108 liks) and 530 steel front gearing and aluminium 530 rear gearing.

Weight saving is 512 gr on the chain, going from 2812 gr to 2300 gr,
front sprocket saves 47 gr, goin g from 435 gr to 388 gr,
and rear ditto saves 734 gr. (pbr), going from 1075 gr. to 365 gr.

apart from a good weight saving, it is clear, that the set runs much more smooth, and easy with less "crunching" when the chain spins around, lube being the same (Castrol chain wax, sparingly used), and a lot less pull and tear from the rear chain rotating, when driving. Simply lift it on centrestand and rotate before and aft, and see for yourself.
Very satisfied on this, running still, only adjusted chain once in the beginning, not since. Gives a little bit more space to rear tyre too, as well as less chance of crunching some aluminium around the front sprocket (seen on a few Laverda's).
Very good mod and highly recommended.

Will considder Andy's 530 Iwis non o-ring next time for more power and even smoother running.

Cheers,
jacques.
 
Bob, thanks mate, obviously this is an issue. What does Piero do..?
If we are to continue to dominate Classic 500-600 Racing, we will need to come up with a solution..
Sprocket guy here in Qld. does make to order..(rears)... I might just call him and see if he's up for it..
Stay in touch on this important issue..
Ciao
Ian
 
Rear sprockets are not a problem as alloy blanks are available in just about any number of teeth from a few companies and not expensive. For road bikes the puppies to ask your local bearing people for are 10B-1 platewheels or in the USA 50-1 platewheels which will be in steel.

Both will come as a disc with a pilot bore hole. It is the machining that costs not the platewheel. In the UK both Talon, who I use, and Renthal, will supply the blank or will machine to pattern.

Front sprockets are a little more complex but just ask for sprockets which come with a boss one side. If you have a dished sprocket or one that has a boss both sides, then ask for a duplex or even triplex sprockets to give enough meat for machining. I have had very good work done by spark erosion where they take a standard as above and erode it to pattern. Another method is to just replace the teethform.

I use Simon Bateman at Nametab but Sprockets Unlimited also offer the same service. As a rule I ask people to go direct as although I get a discount by the time postage  has taken its toll what was a reasonable cost turns into an expensive one.

Andy

 
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