750 head rebuild video?

E

Evan

Full member
Location
Texas
I 1st found out about Laverda Paradies about 5 yrs ago. Just got on the website because I am about to do a head. Info I see on Laverda Paradies is a parts supply in Germany.
Was looking for a video of a head rebuild.
Did not see anything on Laverda Paradies. There are numerous videos on Youtube on head rebuilding for other bikes but not for Laverda. Closest would be Honda 305 or 350 CL CB. Any suggestions where I could find Laverda videos?
 
Evan said:
I 1st found out about Laverda Paradies about 5 yrs ago. Just got on the website because I am about to do a head. Info I see on Laverda Paradies is a parts supply in Germany.
Was looking for a video of a head rebuild.
Did not see anything on Laverda Paradies. There are numerous videos on Youtube on head rebuilding for other bikes but not for Laverda. Closest would be Honda 305 or 350 CL CB. Any suggestions where I could find Laverda videos?
Click to expand...
Evan, PM sent.
 
Which head are you talking about Evan and what sort of work?
If it's guides and seats, nothing particular I imagine.

Paul
 
This head came off engine #15538. Early sf Gt. Had a tapping sound & everyone said should be a flange. I have it off. Everything is tight meaning valves not loose when I turn the timing sprocket around. Was thinking before I took it off maybe it was just the fuel causing the tapping. Less than 100 octane is all I can get & several people posted I do not need to use Lead Substitute. Needs rebuild. Extremely paranoid about taking out the Rocker Spindles. Generator cover screw fits well but have not made an extractor yet.
 

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Evan said:
This head came off engine #15538. Early sf Gt. Had a tapping sound & everyone said should be a flange. I have it off. Everything is tight meaning valves not loose when I turn the timing sprocket around. Was thinking before I took it off maybe it was just the fuel causing the tapping. Less than 100 octane is all I can get & several people posted I do not need to use Lead Substitute. Needs rebuild. Extremely paranoid about taking out the Rocker Spindles. Generator cover screw fits well but have not made an extractor yet.
Click to expand...
Just put a 6mm screw in the spindle and on a heated head, pull.
Otherwise, make up a simple puller with a long 6mm screw, a piece of tube 3 or 4 cm long, and a washer. Screw through tube, washer under screw head and screw in. Spindle will just slide out.

15538 is a 73 SF2 probably. Not an early GT.

You should be able to feel if the cam key is broken without taking anything out.

Lead free is fine, even 95 E10.

Paul
 
Hello Evan,

Although the cylinder head is robust agricultural machinery from Breganze, there are a few things that should be taken into account.

What is noticeable at first glance is that the engine is heavily oily in several places. It looks like the seals were leaking for a long time (or the head was not tightened).

If you really want to take out the camshaft, you have to remove the rocker arm axles first. Before doing this, bring the head in the stove to approx. 80-90 ° C.
The axles are pulled out either with a puller or, more simply, with an ejector (picture follows). Please leave the axis and rocker arm together. The same is done with the two camshaft halves after they have been separated in the middle (3 bolts).
I would definitely replace the split pin that connects the two halves, it's a standard part.

Can you take a photo of the end of the valve stems and valve adjustment screws from below?
A photo of the cams and the treads of the rocker arms would be good too.

Try to get sharp fotos - soft David Hamilton style fotos are dificult to analyse. ;-)

Thomas aus LAU
 
If the flanges are the noise culprit, the key won't break, but the press fit between one or both of the flanges and one or both cam halves will have loosened. The key then wears and the play causes the clatter. The key does NOT secure the flange to the cam - it's simply a locating device to get the cam timing in the correct position (and that's always worth checking anyway). With my 270 conversions, there is no key across the slot in the camchain wheel keyway. The cam-to-flange is a press fit. The flanges-to-camchain-wheel is a 'compression' fit created by the three M6 studs clamping the three pieces together.

Many assume the key is the locking mechanism - not so.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
If the flanges are the noise culprit, the key won't break, but the press fit between one or both of the flanges and one or both cam halves will have loosened. The key then wears and the play causes the clatter. The key does NOT secure the flange to the cam - it's simply a locating device to get the cam timing in the correct position (and that's always worth checking anyway). With my 270 conversions, there is no key across the slot in the camchain wheel keyway. The cam-to-flange is a press fit. The flanges-to-camchain-wheel is a 'compression' fit created by the three M6 studs clamping the three pieces together.

Many assume the key is the locking mechanism - not so.
Click to expand...
The key does break.
It isn't of course involved in the solidity of the system, like any key.

Paul
 
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