martymoose
Hero member
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
How does the selector drum come out? Gear is through the cases on one end, nut on the other end?
750 selector drum removal
- Thread starter martymoose
- Start date
breganzane
Hero member
- Location
- NSW Australia
Undo the nut and the gear/spindle comes out the right side, selector quadrant/nut/washers come out the top. The spindle is a neat fit in the quadrant. Take care of the spacing washers.
martymoose
Hero member
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Thanks guys, chris has never pulled one out, me neither
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
Usually sit very tight on the shaft and need to be levered/pried off. Get it well in line before refitting. Rarely need to be removed.
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
Good fun drilling the steel part :-X. I used a whetstone to smooth all the tracks, drilled and lightened the alloy and steel after seeing an SFC one. It feels about the same as the untouched one in the road bike.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Paul Marx said:
But it's not as if it spins or experiences serious inertia forces when shifting that lightening would alleviate. Having said that, yes, i did drill holes in the alloy part.
Piranha Brother 2 said:
The SFC one is drilled to oblivion.
Sweetest gear selection I've had on a Laverda.
There are serious inertia forces when shifting, it's a damn heavy piece of clobber.
The only thing fighting against that inertia is the positive stop wheel.
Give it an easier life. And save your left big toe.
Paul
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Not sure what you're referring to, Paul? What's the selector arm? The skinny pressed metal thing with the spring and engagement wheel on it? Can't imagine it being much more wa(i)sted than the std SF one.
And I still beg to differ on the weight issue - the thing moves what? 1cm between changes? At the speed a foot can move it. Compare with a clutch drum spinning at around half crank speed. There are quite a few other factors at play in the shift system that affect smoothness and efficacy of shifting. IMHO drilling of this part is mostly just part of the general weight loss program inflicted on any competition motor. Yes, every bit helps.
And I still beg to differ on the weight issue - the thing moves what? 1cm between changes? At the speed a foot can move it. Compare with a clutch drum spinning at around half crank speed. There are quite a few other factors at play in the shift system that affect smoothness and efficacy of shifting. IMHO drilling of this part is mostly just part of the general weight loss program inflicted on any competition motor. Yes, every bit helps.
I couldn't find a photo of the selector shaft, not arm.
But We'll have to differ, that drum is very heavy and I'm certain inertia is important in selection precision.
As for the speed of a foot, it must be a long time since you got a kick in the ghoolies.
Paul
But We'll have to differ, that drum is very heavy and I'm certain inertia is important in selection precision.
As for the speed of a foot, it must be a long time since you got a kick in the ghoolies.
Paul
The SFC drum shaft is hollow along the thick part, the small selector shaft (the one with the pins) is waisted. The selector drum itself is heavily drilled. All makes for a very crisp gearchange if all is set up properly, very different to the stock bits.
The entire assembly needs far less energy to be set into motion, and then stopped, than the heavier original bits.
piet
The entire assembly needs far less energy to be set into motion, and then stopped, than the heavier original bits.
piet
Paul,
I'll always agree as long as you don't rave total bullshit...
(cheers)
Getting the shaft out can be a pain, it's usually a quite tight fit in the selector drum. The nut only shifts it a mm or 2, the remainder needs to be pulled out.
I can imagine the weight loss program on the SFC selector bits was as much to ease overall operation as well as attaining a higher level of precision. Stomping on the gear lever quickly in the heat of battle could also maybe overwhelm the spring-loaded detent system and allow a heavier drum to spin over its stop into the following gear. Not really what a rider wants...
piet
I'll always agree as long as you don't rave total bullshit...
(cheers)Getting the shaft out can be a pain, it's usually a quite tight fit in the selector drum. The nut only shifts it a mm or 2, the remainder needs to be pulled out.
I can imagine the weight loss program on the SFC selector bits was as much to ease overall operation as well as attaining a higher level of precision. Stomping on the gear lever quickly in the heat of battle could also maybe overwhelm the spring-loaded detent system and allow a heavier drum to spin over its stop into the following gear. Not really what a rider wants...
piet
Laverda SF
Hero member
SF"C": Mechanical BREV Double Leading Shoe Drum Brake.
Rear BREV Drum Brake:
Front BREV Drum Brake:
They are so easy to work on and adjusting; other then loss of skin polishing them, they never wear out including the brake pads plus they handle rain better then disks. Haul you down from 130mph time and time again without fading.
If you don't service them about every 3 years they do tend to gum up with dirt.
Rear BREV Drum Brake:
Front BREV Drum Brake:
They are so easy to work on and adjusting; other then loss of skin polishing them, they never wear out including the brake pads plus they handle rain better then disks. Haul you down from 130mph time and time again without fading.
If you don't service them about every 3 years they do tend to gum up with dirt.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Ron, read the word 'selector' before the word 'drum' in the post title. I guess straying off topic can come in many forms.
Nice pics though ...
Nice pics though ...
Laverda SF
Hero member
OOP's! Well I presensted a descent presentation on how to maintain drum brakes ;o)