750 SF2 Drive chain

Casor

Full member
Location
United States
Hey guys, I have been moving along on this thing but it's been a slow ride. All four caliper pistons are stuck solid. I am cleaning and cleaning, extracting bearings blah blah blah. But progress is being made a step at a time.

My SF2 appears to have the original no o-ring chain, but some of the links are a bit sticky even after a good soak and clean. I feel that I should replace it and I am not adverse to using a new no o-ring chain. I also don't care about having a master link as I safety wire those things anyway. My sprockets appear to be original and are in decent shape. I am happy with the excess weight of a stock chain as the entire bike weighs a ton. If I want something light, I will ride my 916. Assuming a stock setup here, what to get and where?

I have read many of the comments concerning the drive chains on an SF2, but it has been difficult for me to determine what the consensus is on this subject. Hoping not to have everyone redo all the comments, just some short and sweet advice would be great. Thanks everybody!
Rob
 
Hi Rob, at 1st I'd check the size or your current drive chain. Factory size was 630 (3/4 x 3/8), lots of folk convert to 530 (5/8 x 3/8). As a side effect you can half the weight of your SF2 ...
:cool:

Cheers
Jo
 
Factory size was 630 (3/4 x 3/8)
No, not on the twins. That was on (some?) triples, at least 1200s.
Twins have originally 530, some of us have changed to 520 to be
able to use o-/x-ring chains without them scratching on the cases.
For non o-/x-ring chain I'd recommend the did 530 nz, which is a
reinforced chain.

Ernesto
 
530, 106 spindles our whatever they're called.
Choice of chain depends if you intend riding the bike.
Non O rings is more maintenance. O ring saps power but if you intend riding, O ring is the way to go. You'll get 20 to 30 000 km out of a chain with near zero maintenance and 3 tensions in that time.

I have O ring on all my 750s except SFC.

Paul
 
No, not on the twins. That was on (some?) triples, at least 1200s.
Twins have originally 530, some of us have changed to 520 to be
able to use o-/x-ring chains without them scratching on the cases.
For non o-/x-ring chain I'd recommend the did 530 nz, which is a
reinforced chain.

Ernesto

... as far as I remember my SF1 had a 630 ...
 
Ha ha, Consensus on the forum??:D
Andychain used to sell a non O Ring Iwis 530 chain which was extremely durable and light with excellent long term performance and a nice quiet run. Had excellent service from it on my triple. (I am now running ringed chains but wished I had tried to order the non o rings again, but wasn't sure how to - I believe you can still get them from Jason?? - someone will confirm, perhaps even available in the US?)
O / X Ring chains should require less maintenance but of course once the seals are compromised it's all over.
Search function will show many comments on the pros and cons of each and Andy used to make some comments which didn't always please everybody. No doubt true many of the O ring chains these days are overpriced due to marketing nonsense about suitability!
One thing though, whatever you buy (as long as a known good quality) chains perform very well these days....................
 
Thank you everyone for your comments. After much deliberation, research and consideration, I have bought the 530 DID chain with a master link. I don't think that I will pile up that many miles on this bike and I clean and lube them all each year or before a reasonably long trip anyway.
 
Has anyone any experience of 520 chain fitting on the Breganze 750 models?
I'm thinking that with the huge crank flywheel, two cush drives, and not massive power (certainly far less that a Zane' Formula which runs 520) a modern 520 O-ring chain is not going to be overstressed and may be the best option for early 750 models - looks like Wagner has the 19T 520 front sprockets in his catalog - are they widely available?
First target is the 750GT.
Are 520 rear sprockets for the Grimeca hubs (5 8mm bolt holes on 100mm circle) available in various tooth counts - is this one used on other bikes? Wagner lists only 530 with 42 teeth here, does anyone know a sprocket supplier part number?
I'm interested to hear if anyone is distance riding with a 520 setup and how wear compares with 530.
 
Sorry can't give you feedback yet, but I am fitting a high quality 520 to my 880, which will produce (I hope/expect) quite a bit more power and torque than a stock SF. I plan to run it with a Scottoiler. I'm going to grind down one side of my stock 19T primary - have already fitted an alloy rear sprocket from a blank red supplied me with. I'll possibly even build up a 20T variant using a stock centre and a 520 sprocket i bought off Fleebay - my gearing is taller to compensate the smaller circ of a 160/6017 rear tyre.

Will be very interested to see how it holds up on long journeys and over time. Interested to read that Wagner sells primaries in 19/520. I'll inspect his prices.
 
I have fitted an o-ring #520 to my GTL, primarily to reduce the chain/crankcase contact while retaining the longevity and lo-maintenance of an o-ring chain (#520 o-ring is approx. the same width as a #530 non o-ring). Sprockets need to be modified, no big deal.

No great difference, bike still goes as it should, chain doesn't wear any quicker than the former.

piet
 
still no big deal if you know the right people with the right kit, currently doing something very similar
CLEM
 
I have fitted an o-ring #520 to my GTL, primarily to reduce the chain/crankcase contact while retaining the longevity and lo-maintenance of an o-ring chain (#520 o-ring is approx. the same width as a #530 non o-ring). Sprockets need to be modified, no big deal.

No great difference, bike still goes as it should, chain doesn't wear any quicker than the former.

piet
Good input Piet, thank you.

I don't have such machining capability myself so will have to take it to a local machine shop.
Did you machine the sprockets both sides to maintain the chain center line or do you feel there's enough clearance one side (which side? ) to only need to reduce width of sprockets on one side for the depth of the chain?

I have a couple of used 5 hole stock (heavy!) steel sprockets for the Grimeca hub but would like to find various tooth count options so the question's still open of whether those match up to any sprocket supplier's standard offerings?
 
I kept the chain centred in this case as my major concern was the interference with the engine casing. Not too difficult to knock up a rear from an alloy blank.

I offset the chain run when modifying for clearance for wider tyres.

piet
 
after all is said and done, I have got to say its not really worth converting to 520 chain, as you have an early twin, (you mention the Grimeca brakes/hubs) just use the stock 530 and non O ring and all will be just fine and dandy. Even the O ring ones are OK, because your cases have probably already been ground away by former use of the same. its perfectly OK to use a spring link as well (the right way around!) regarding the triples with 630 chain, it is HUGELY worthwhile converting to 530 or 520, but the real reason is not the "racy" 520 but to junk the massive, course, cruise liner bow doors weight 630, nearly 19,000 twins have all most exclusively run on 530 since 1968, when the chains were crap, one snapped on me at 300 miles, Regina copper plated shit, they last and last these days, as do some tyres.
CLEM
 
Except that the front sprocket is hard as all hell.
You just gotta be harder! ;)

Soften it by glowing to bright cherry red, machine and re-harden, easy peasy...

I've even ground one down without prior softening on the lathe with a toolpost grinder, takes ages. Above method is far quicker.

piet
 
I reckon I'll go the soften and reharden route - I have ground down hardened steel stuff in the lathe by mounting my angle grinder onto the toolpost! Actually works surprisingly well. Easy to achieve perfect perpendicular. But sprockets aren't straight sided, of course.
 
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