750sf crankcase
- Thread starter jockula
- Start date
CLEMTOG
Hero member
Yes, do it with the sump on a mid height platform, strip left and right covers off, remove prmary chain and clutch (optonal for the clutch) fix crank to upper half using wood over the cam box, and cargo straps as the pictures of Hamish doing this to his triple in the current ILOC mag, and hoist the motor vertically, be sure to retain the gearbox shafts in the lower case. Now you have the top half dagling from the ceiling and the gearbox accessible in the bottom half, but why? you have the golden oportunity to strip everything and find out what needs maintenance, which there always is the need for, even if minor.
CLEM
CLEM
My gearchange is a bit too sloppy for my liking.Adjusted as per book with eccentric screw while in 4th/5th
gear. I,m getting all gears as it goes. Theres an arm/spring in the case at the shifter drum. I,m just
wondering that the spring might be stretched hence sloppy change. Also the arm springs on the
right side,all look,operate ok. Just curious thats all
gear. I,m getting all gears as it goes. Theres an arm/spring in the case at the shifter drum. I,m just
wondering that the spring might be stretched hence sloppy change. Also the arm springs on the
right side,all look,operate ok. Just curious thats all
The arm hook that pulls round the selector spindle looks fine to me,and the spring ?.
Suppose as the arm/hook is a moving part and could wear. Even the eccentric screw
looks ok. Selector drum shaft and selector spindle marks line up perfectly. Are there
documented wear limits ?
Suppose as the arm/hook is a moving part and could wear. Even the eccentric screw
looks ok. Selector drum shaft and selector spindle marks line up perfectly. Are there
documented wear limits ?
The gear shift internals are generally vice-free... until the selector spring snaps. But it then turns from sloppy to zero.
If your gears engage properly, without having them jump out under load, there's not much that can go wrong inside the box, probably best to leave it as is.
Sloppy selection is usually down to incorrect return spring and pawl fitment/spacing. The shift lever should have next to no up/down play before pressure of the return spring is felt, the spring is often incorrectly fitted, resulting in miles of travel before anything happens.
That shift pawl doesn't look overly worn to me, there's no real reason for them to wear much at all. Refer to your parts manual for correct order of fitting washers and spring orientation.
Dozens of pages have been written on the subject of shifter adjustment, the search button is your friend!
piet
If your gears engage properly, without having them jump out under load, there's not much that can go wrong inside the box, probably best to leave it as is.
Sloppy selection is usually down to incorrect return spring and pawl fitment/spacing. The shift lever should have next to no up/down play before pressure of the return spring is felt, the spring is often incorrectly fitted, resulting in miles of travel before anything happens.
That shift pawl doesn't look overly worn to me, there's no real reason for them to wear much at all. Refer to your parts manual for correct order of fitting washers and spring orientation.
Dozens of pages have been written on the subject of shifter adjustment, the search button is your friend!
piet
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Total overkill pulling your cases apart for that issue - at the very least you can get a direct feel for the tension in the internal shift drum spring by turning the gear that's exposed when you've removed the selector covers. If you feel definite clicks/clunks as the small wheel drops into the shift drum detents then there's little chance the spring is stretched - and it only moves a few mm when it drops into the slot so it's not like the spring does a whole lot of work. You'll know immediately if there's slop in the system.
I'd be looking at the selector mech, as Piet points out.
I'd be looking at the selector mech, as Piet points out.
MarnixSFC
Hero member
It clearly was modified at some point but not sure if it influences the shifting. Maybe a sign that a previous owner was struggling too.
Marnix
arancia
Senior member
- Location
- Arizona, USA
These are two well-used but still serviceable units that I intend to reinstall - the inner section is straight where yours looks curved and the hooks appear sharper though I can't say that either of those factors would lead to the problems you're having.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
If you could describe what the specific issue with shifting is it may help come up with a reasonable diagnosis - there are many varieties of 'shift problems'. As for the hooks - an accurate measurement with a vernier between the internal edges of yours and a known working one will indicate if there's a possible link there - as long as the hook moves the selector pins far enough to allow the internal roller to click into the shift drum indents then that is not your problem.
If it shifts one way cleanly and not the other - that is a different issue again. If it selects all gears cleanly bar one gear that's another etc etc ...
If it shifts one way cleanly and not the other - that is a different issue again. If it selects all gears cleanly bar one gear that's another etc etc ...