A new V-6

I trust your words and experience but am wondering if it really was the chassis or maybe wrong suspension setting (rebound)? I would assume that modern chasis are normally rigid and solid as a rock - no? Haven't done testrides of other bikes in the past 10 years though, just assuming here really...
 
Laverdalothar said:
I trust your words and experience but am wondering if it really was the chassis or maybe wrong suspension setting (rebound)? I would assume that modern chasis are normally rigid and solid as a rock - no? Haven't done testrides of other bikes in the past 10 years though, just assuming here really...
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Well, the modern bikes look like solid, but the frame is usually still aluminum. Anyway, it is not easy to make a chassis working from the scratch. The Horex is verry heavy, the CoG is somewhere, Maybe it is not wobbling like a Kawa H1, but it is a feeling not verry solid. The suspention is soft, so it feels worse. They say that the new generation is much better, but I think it cannot be, since the basic is still the same.
The Motor should have some 160 HP or something, but it feels like 120 HP, even with no punch at all. A Laverda with 80 HP is much more thrilling!
200 Km/h on the Horex is nearly impossible... (Sorry german engineers...)
 
Seems that they did something about it in 2018 as well on the suspension as on the engine setup. In the test (sorry for others, it's in German...) the tester from 1000PS Magazine confirmed that he wasn't impressed at all by the bike when he first rode it; but now, after they did change the setup (with the help of Martin Bauer), he was really impressed... (starting at 12:xx minutes):

 
You don't necessarily need power or torque to do a wheelie. I've done wheelies on a 1969 BMW R60/5, which doesn't have enough grunt to pull a power wheelie. The engine is a gutless thing but it has a massive flywheel. From a standing start, rev it up to about 6000 and drop the clutch. It'll wheelie on the energy stored in the spinning flywheel, even if you close the throttle.
 
Dellortoman said:
You don't necessarily need power or torque to do a wheelie. I've done wheelies on a 1969 BMW R60/5, which doesn't have enough grunt to pull a power wheelie. The engine is a gutless thing but it has a massive flywheel. From a standing start, rev it up to about 6000 and drop the clutch. It'll wheelie on the energy stored in the spinning flywheel, even if you close the throttle.
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And flop over onto it's side 😂😱
 
Done that with the Jota twice (well, not sure I may call that a wheely, but at least it was a short lift of the front wheel), first one was even with standard engine with A11 cams, second time was with the tuned engine when I pulled over a car somewhere in Austria. Just recognized that the front wheel did not have ground contact as the handle-bars felt light obviously gave no road-contact anymore.

The Formula is also good for unwanted wheeles... Any time you start from standing at a redlight and accelerate a bit to much when lights go green, front goes up even in second gear...

Friend of mine makes wheeles with any bike, even with a 50ccm scooter... So - more a question of the right technique rather than power or torque...
 
Wheelis not only a matter of torque but mainly of the CoG. Just sit straight and backside on the bike and it easy whellis. Also on the exit on courves, the outside diameter of a tyre is much smaller than in the middle, so in the time to change the diameter from exit a courve it wheelis easy... anyway, with a big secundary sprocket like in the comercial horex vid its like a Motocross...
 
Well, on the Sporster, it was just accelerating after changing from first to second, no fancy stuff with revs, just torque.
That was back in 1988, I haven't got over it.

Paul
 
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