Advice needed - loose exhaust studs

B

bobsotto

Full member
Location
Slangerup, Denmark
Hi,

Need your advice on this: Took the exhaust downpipes off my RGS for an oil change and 3 out of the 6 studs for the exhaust rings came out of the head. There doesn't seem to to be any damage to the threads in the head butwill check that. Would your recommend to locktite the studs into the head when reassembling the exhaust and if yes - which Locktite no.? Should I buy new studs when the old ones are corroded at the outer end (probably the reason for the studs to come out instead of the nuts coming off the studs when unscrewing).

Arne
 
What are the nuts made of?
Should be brass, so should not corrode on to studs.
 
I think I used Loctite 290 medium strength threadlocker on mine - one drop only on each stud (I might need it off one day).

As Grant said - brass nuts are useful.
 
hi make sure you put the correct length of thread into the head otherwise you could damage the head (bottom the stub out) personally I don't use lock tight on the studs
regards and good luck Andy
 
Bit too hot for loctite round there. Just clean the studs up if they are OK and screw them back in tight. Personally I do not like brass nuts and shitty spring washers that tear everything up either. You want some of my nice copper plated steel self locking nuts on there, don't come loose, don't damage the flanges and never seize. Only ?1.20 each..  :D


  Keith
 

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Thanks for your advises - all much appresiated.

The nuts are in fact brass, but I haven't yet cleaned the studs to see if it is corrosion or just old crud. The bike has been sitting outdoor for quite some time (PO) and has many corroded part elsewhere - cromed parts as well as alu (and some other "issues" but I'll let in to that later - one of them being a leaking camcover gasket (I hope :o) as can be seen from the picture).
Keith,  might take advantage of your offer.

Arne
 

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See a couple more issues in your photos...

Where's all the oil from?

The domed nut on the front cam chain tunnel stud is incorrect, should be a 12mm hex nut to aid proper tightening.  The dome nut might well bottom on the rather long stud used on the 120? engines.  If oily around there, further tightening won't cure it, only cracks the barrel casting!

I use titanium k-nuts for the exhaust studs, no need for spring washers either.  Bit more expensive than Keiths' though.

piet
 
Hi Piet,

Thanks for your advice on the domed nut - I'll exchange that. The oil is, as far as I can judge, is coming from the camcover near the cam chain tunnel. I hope it's a leaking gasket but will check this out soon. Any experience in troubles in that area?

There are many issues on this rather neglected bike. I'm far from an expert, but the few km I managed to ride before the starter clutch gave up, did not make me nervous regarding the engine. Sounded good in my ears but what do I know - it's my first triple...

I'll probably come back with more issues where your as well as all other forum members knowledge will be needed and appreciated.

Arne
 
with reference to your cam cover leaking it could be there's no copper washer's under the 6 x allan bolts that hold the cover on. these are very hard to get but phil Todd does a new gasket that comes with new washer's.excellent value ;)
REGARDS ANDY
 
Head studs will stay put if you use a stud with the wrong thread and jam it in as far as it will go.
Well, that's what a previous owner had done to a Honda 350 I fixed up a few years ago. Had a 5/16" BSW stud where an M8 should have been.  ::)
 
The copper cam bolt nuts need to be 1mm thick.
Also, the rubber gasket may not be thick enough. Should be around 1.8mm thick.
I has a leaking cam cover until I found the brand new rubber gasket was only 1.2mm.
The cam bolts seat out before sufficient clamping pressure is applied to seal it.
 
And remember the Allen bolts have to be 12.9 rated  :o or your engine will explode  :P

                                                          Dave
 
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