Airbox with or without filter

michipons

michipons

Hero member
Location
Palma de Mallorca
Dear all,
For the Laverda 1200, I am planning to mount the factory airbox, do you think the bike works better without filtering material? I don’t ride through dusty roads.
If it is advisable to out the air filter , where can I find filtering material? Is the A/C white foam good enough? Or must be a kind of automotive filtering foam?
Regards
Miguel
 
Well, it’s the dust in the air, irrespective of the road surface, that you have to consider. Here in South Australia I would never ride without filters as the air is dry and dusty. My house never gets dragged down dusty roads :), but I’m regularly dusting and vacuuming. If you dust your furniture and a day or two later there’s more dust, then that should tell you something.
 
I'm with you. Never want to run a bike without air filters again. Been there done that and seen the incredible wear in the bores, top rings in several pieces from hitting the ridge.
 
I, also, use a filter on mine, maybe that's why it's lasted so long.
You cannot use any old foam. It must be fuel (inc. ethanol) resistant. I got a refill for mine from Keith Nairn at Scozia, but any of the reputable suppliers would, most likely, be able to help.
 
Air filter? Yes, and I just finished a new setup on my Jota. Space in the filter case is limited, so a proper paper filter cartridge was out of the question. I’m trying K&N air filter instead. K&N 33-2977 (for Huyndai i10, 1.2L, 2007-2013) was the most suitable in terms of dimensions that I could find. It is a hard-to-find item, it may have been discontinued. K&N filters seem to divide opinions, some think their filtering power is not sufficient. The thickness of the filter is a modest 22 mm, but I believe that it works more efficiently than the original.

Anyway, I 3D-printed adapters and a modified back cover to mount the filter. Filter flange needed to be cut off. As you can see in the picture, the filter is tilted at an angle, so there is plenty of space for oil breather hose. This was also mandatory because of the filter size, it is about 8 cm x 25 cm. The filter is washable, so there’s no need to replace it. The recommended maintenance interval is 30 000-50 000 miles, I’ll probably wash it a bit more often.

kn_33_2977.png


kn_adapters_and_back_cover.png


kn_modified.png


kn_mounted.png
 
I had the Unifuilter bunch north of Sydney make me a dual foam element to fit my Atlas, not as thick as I wanted but it's as thick as would fit. Use the correct really taky oil or it isn't worth the effort. BTW oil if well, then squeeze the hell out of the foam, don't wring it out. Over-oiled staves the engine and reduces power, under-oiled risks Dusting it but that's only really important if you're riding offroad.
 
cape said:
Air filter? Yes, and I just finished a new setup on my Jota. Space in the filter case is limited, so a proper paper filter cartridge was out of the question. I’m trying K&N air filter instead. K&N 33-2977 (for Huyndai i10, 1.2L, 2007-2013) was the most suitable in terms of dimensions that I could find. It is a hard-to-find item, it may have been discontinued. K&N filters seem to divide opinions, some think their filtering power is not sufficient. The thickness of the filter is a modest 22 mm, but I believe that it works more efficiently than the original.

Anyway, I 3D-printed adapters and a modified back cover to mount the filter. Filter flange needed to be cut off. As you can see in the picture, the filter is tilted at an angle, so there is plenty of space for oil breather hose. This was also mandatory because of the filter size, it is about 8 cm x 25 cm. The filter is washable, so there’s no need to replace it. The recommended maintenance interval is 30 000-50 000 miles, I’ll probably wash it a bit more often.

kn_33_2977.png


kn_adapters_and_back_cover.png


kn_modified.png


kn_mounted.png
Click to expand...
Woow! Amazing job! Actually I found some filters here in Spain with your mentioned reference! Would it be ok to share the 3D printing files?? I can print in ABS or even ASA plastic which is recommended for automotive parts. I could print a few parts for free in exchange of the files for other members interested if the owner allows it!
Regards
Miguel
 
michipons said:
Woow! Amazing job! Actually I found some filters here in Spain with your mentioned reference! Would it be ok to share the 3D printing files?? I can print in ABS or even ASA plastic which is recommended for automotive parts. I could print a few parts for free in exchange of the files for other members interested if the owner allows it!
Regards
Miguel
Click to expand...
Pm sent!
 
That's a nice fabing job. Regarding air filters/no filters, here's what the slides on my 750 w/ 15K miles looked like from the PO never replacing the clogged and broken air filter. Along w/ scoring the slldes, the carb bores will also get scored from the constant dirt abrasion, so use some sort of filter.
 

Attachments

  • slides.png
    slides.png
    495.7 KB · Views: 12
TeddyG said:
That's a nice fabing job. Regarding air filters/no filters, here's what the slides on my 750 w/ 15K miles looked like from the PO never replacing the clogged and broken air filter. Along w/ scoring the slldes, the carb bores will also get scored from the constant dirt abrasion, so use some sort of filter.
Click to expand...
It's not the slides you need to worry about, but the cylinder bores.
Paul
 
Could never get my 70 750 SF0 with Dellortto VHB 30's to rev much above 7200rpm although the tack red line was 7400 rpm with OEM Velocity Stacks or an Air Filter BOX ;o(

No Cones, Open Mouth VHB 30's with rich Main Jets, 8000rpm here I come with light header pipes from Slater Bros ;o)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top