Amsoil 15W 60

I tried a semi-synthetic in my Laverda, back in the '80s and suffered from clutch slip.
Dropped the oil, stripped out the clutch plates, washed them in petrol/gasoline, wire brushed the friction plates, re-assembled it and stayed with mineral oil since. Still has the original clutch in it.
Just sayin'.
 
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The Daytona/Centauro shop manual calls for 20w50 synthetic, though the swingarm service sticker on my Sport 1100 said 10w40. About this, there could be some truth. Youtuber Mike's Machines - nice channel - interviewed legendary Australian Moto Guzzi tuner and engineer Bill Finnegan, and he noted discomfort with using too viscous oils in big blocks, saying that, despite their ancient designs, they are actually very finely made engines (truth) with very tight internal tolerances that too viscous oil won't like. Mine gets Mobil 1 V-Twin, with Redline Shock Proof in the tranny and rear drive. The latter really improves shifting.

The latter 2000s+ big blocks and four valvers are designed for 60.

I really do recommend swapping the stock oil pump with the upgraded pieces; they are the reasons why Guzzi mechanics since love to hate on those early four-valvers.

And, I hate to add work to a man's garage, but another mizewell while you have everything apart is renewing the tranny output shaft seal. You don't know when it was last done, and they are notorious for leaking with age or if not redone carefully.

 
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My 3C has been running on various brands of 10/60W synthetic for about 12 years without the slightest issue. Started off with a clinically clean engine, still looks like new when I lift the cam cover.

piet
 
Thankfully I get a healthy ongoing discount from my local Amsoil guy, Frederick, but yes the Amsoil products are not inexpensive. I am going to go with Piet's comment about succesfully using 10W 60 full synthetic for quite a while in a Laverda triple.

I did have a choice between 10W 60 and 15W 60 for the Guzzi, as factory recomendation is 20W 50 I went with closest to that.

with the recomendations from ksoholm I am looking at uograded oil pump bits and gears, and as I have the swing arm off and drive shaft out I will look into replacing the rear seal if I can do it without having to pull the transmission. Off to check the manual.....

wheels are back from the powder coater, look like new, need to install spacers and bearings then get the new Michelin Road 6 tires mounted and balanced, About to tackle replacing the cam belts
 
The rationale for using completely synthetic motor oil is often extended times between oil changes. In view of Laverda's "filtration" system, is it really wise to use any oil for an extended period? Wouldn't it be better to have fresh oil without fine bits of metal circulating through the engine?
 
lawrence said:
The rationale for using completely synthetic motor oil is often extended times between oil changes. In view of Laverda's "filtration" system, is it really wise to use any oil for an extended period? Wouldn't it be better to have fresh oil without fine bits of metal circulating through the engine?
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Done to death.
Money down the drain for bikes which anyway won't be ridden any more in 15 years time.

Paul
 
Grass track guy blew up a motor from mixing Castrol R and normal 10/40w turned to jelly, Dispatch company in Watford used 20/50w Diesel oil in Kawasaki GT550 and rings stuck in grooves.Had Amsoil make a Fireblade starter clutch slip but apart from that most oil works.
Had a customer who had Scooters all his life thought two stroke oil was merely suplimentary for when you remembered….
 
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