Anatomy of an Oil Leak (or Two)

piranha-bro2

Hero member
Location
Melbourne
The SFQ has done over 9000km. Other than a major issue of oil from the LH barrel due to breakthrough for the OS sleeves (mostly sorted but still a minor issue, even on a second set of barrels) it's had the odd oil leak (eg, primary chain tensioner area ... new gasket) but has generally been leak-free. After the Laverda 2-day Curdievale run I serviced the bike, prepping it for the big 5-day High Country club ride.

Not far into day one I noticed oil weeping from the right cam end cover, sufficient to drip off the fins and leave a lovely smear all over the (battery-airbox) side cover ... ugly - one place I'd never had a drop escape from, so was somewhat baffled (and pissed off). It continued to leak and irritate me for the remaining 2500km, necessitating wiping it away at every fuel stop. Why the hell did this suddenly appear???!!! Hooksey will remember my words.

There was also a leak from somewhere down near the final drive behind the selector cover (a new gasket and added sealant hadn't solved that one, but I could live with it until I found the time to probe further for the source.

Last week I changed the oil and went in to investigate. Selector cover issue appears almost certainly to be from oil passing between the output shaft and the bearing/spacer (the seal runs on the spacer). A dose of engine silicone will hopefully have solved that. As for the cam end cover, I fitted a new gasket and used sealant. First ride out and sure enough I'm still getting oil on the fins ... ugly Mk2. I'm convinced it's not the top cover gasket as it's dry under there. a clean rag under the right inlet tappet cover shows clean oil on the underside. Never seen one of them leak. Correct size new o-rings went in during the build, but in desperation I remove it and when i check it on a flat surface I can fit a 0.6mm feeler gauge under one side - the other side seems no more than 0.1mm. The four tappet covers on the Q came from bits I've amassed over the years (I think a couple came from a job lot I bought from a Canadian about 12 years ago).

So ... what;'s clear is that some DPO has fitted o-rings larger than spec, tightened down the dome nuts and bingo ... managed to distort the cover. Why did the leak only manifest itself after the service? Simple - I fitted it 180 degrees diff from where it had been previously! When the big gap was at the bottom, oil could happily drip away and irritate the shit out of me! Fitted one of my original SF1 tappet covers and the problem has miraculously disappeared.

So shit simple I feel like a total goose for not finding it earlier - in my defence, oil leaks can be notoriously hard to source. Piet has mentioned the common problem of old covers having been overtightened, overcompressing areas of gasket and warping the cover. Never thought a tappet cover could cause so much grief, being a simple o-ring seal, but this is a classic example of what he was talking about.

Apologies for the long tome ... it has felt like a saga to me!

Q
 
On a similar note the tapper cover gaskets I sourced from a local Graingers initially fit, but when I remove them to check clearances, they,ve expanded. So not sure what type of rubber gasket is impervious to heat expansion.
 
I have a long-standing leak from my Primary Chain adjuster. Fitted a new copper washer a few times, and it keeps weeping, just enough to wet the surface around it . Might add some thread tape next time.
 
Have found a lot of warped tappet covers over the years. Surface plate and a sheet of 400 sorts them out. You want the green viton O rings.

No thread tape Vince, that will just bugger the alloy thread in the case.
 
Have found a lot of warped tappet covers over the years. Surface plate and a sheet of 400 sorts them out. You want the green viton O rings.

No thread tape Vince, that will just bugger the alloy thread in the case.

Doesn’t anyone use silicone sealant anymore?

If you used enough silicone, carefully protecting the valve gear with a stainless dish scourer, or a gut full of sand, you could do away with the pesky alloy covers altogether….. where the fuck is the ‘bolt’ emoji?
 
I have a long-standing leak from my Primary Chain adjuster. Fitted a new copper washer a few times, and it keeps weeping, just enough to wet the surface around it . Might add some thread tape next time.
I've seen them leak from that area and it was porosity in the case casting. Difficult to trace.
 
This goes on all my drain plug threads. Works well on the primary aduster too. But this should be fine with the copper washers if the sealing surfaces are OK.


Serves the same purpose as teflon tape, doesn't over-stress any component and is easy to release.

piet
 
Doesn’t anyone use silicone sealant anymore?

If you used enough silicone, carefully protecting the valve gear with a stainless dish scourer, or a gut full of sand, you could do away with the pesky alloy covers altogether….. where the fuck is the ‘bolt’ emoji?
Yuk!

The amount of this stuff I've found in various oil strainers is mind-boggling! Apparently, it is mostly applied as if it were free...

I use it only on hard-core leaks that Loctite 510 can't cope with or large covers that need to be removed every once in a while, such as primary covers. Straight and true primary covers can be installed with a thin smear of grease on the gasket to aid future removal. These can be near to impossible to remove undamaged if installed with 510 or similar.

piet

The pictured engine was just as oily on the outside as it was inside!


PICT1335.JPGPICT1334.JPGPICT1336.JPGPICT1337.JPG
 
I had an Alfa engine fry its camshafts because the over generous (factory fitted) silicon bead, from inside the sump cover like the photograph above, had detached and, like a mass of spaghetti, blocked the oil pickup strainer.
Still had pressure, but it didn't have the necessary flow volume to cool the cams.
An oil temperature gauge might have indicated the problem, but a pressure gauge didn't.
If it must be used, it must be used sparingly!
 
I used it only to seal the splined section of the output shaft to the spacer (applied from outside, sprocket removed). Seems to haver solved that irritating leak.

I've seen a few motors as per Piet's pic. Ugly stuff!
 
good stuff in here, thanks!
I had to resort to sealant for my oil filter cover, it misses a corner and is very likely to have been deformed. That sealant was a thick grey type with a sprout that could let ~1mm wide lines out. Didn't need anything more than that, certainly not the amount on the photo's! :O
I used it together with a new gasket.
 
If you spray the copper washer on the primary chain adjuster bolt with just a very, very light spray of 'Copper coat' on both sides of the washer, there will be no more oil leaks. Let it dry completely, and there will be no more leaks or weeping.

I love coppercoat.

Clem will agree, when breaking down steam boiler joints, gaskets that had been covered with coppercoat, came apart so easily.

We never reused them, although you could, but them thar pesky inspectors frowned on it.
 
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