Any M-Unit Experts?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Grant
  • Start date Start date
Laverdalothar said:
Hi Bruce,
you can put the kill-switch between ignition and the M-unit, that would solve your first issue, no?
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I could have wired it this way but we wanted the Kill switch to Kill the ignition and disable the starter. I could have wired it up this way using relays but that is defeating the intention of making the wiring simple. If I was needing to Kill the engine (for some reason) on the side of a busy motorway at night I want my lights to keep working so that the tin tops can see me. Maybe this is not a likely scenario but it could happen.
Laverdalothar said:
Also, you can change the setup of the M-Unit to a one-cable-operation mode for the taillight so that brake light and tail light are operated by one single cable from the brake-light-connector of the M-Unit. would solve your second point (you would need a LED taillight though for that as far as I understood the instructions; not sure if you can take any LED taillight or only a special one from motogadget?!?).
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Yes I looked at that but we are not sure what Tail Light is going to be fitted to the bike yet. Plus I think this still has the same always on logic. You are correct you can use the switchgear to turn it off by a sequence of timed operations but as Cam said this seems like a lot of farting about. There is no desire to change or add more buttons/switches to the handlebars.
Laverdalothar said:
Cam, disappointment is always a result of a mismatch between expectation and outcome.

The M Unit is NOT designed mainly for usage with old school, classic handle bar switches. It is designed to reduce cabling and weight on the bike as much as possible. It is designed for custom bike scene, not for classic bikes. You can make it work with some limitations on classic bikes with classic switch gears, too, but then you will face some limitations. Why? Because you are not using it for what it is designed. Problem of the product? I don't think so. Look at their homepage and at the manual, you will find that the target market is custom bikes and you also will find the limitations and options listed in the manual.
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I think this exactly the point I was making in my original post Lothar. You are correct, the unit is really aimed at the custom bike world.
I was not criticising the product just pointing out the deficiencies from my perspective.

I spent yesterday designing a unit that would be better suited to our classic bikes using our "standard switchgear".
My objectives are to have one unit that does what the M-Unit does but includes the extra inputs/outputs for Lights and Kill Switch.
I also want the fuses for the M Lock (or Equivalent) and Motoscope (or Equivalent) built into the unit instead of having to locate the extra fuses separate.
I am going to get a price to get some made...

Padders,
Good luck in getting it down to 3 wires mate. :D :D

Cheers
Bruce
 
The last job Doug Home was working on when he left the Laverda world was a plastic box that held all the relays and fuses in one spot with 1 power feed coming in. Sounded like a good idea to me at the time but I was sick of not having a bike that went, to much ffing about with mine and not enough riding. He fitted it to his 6 plug 3CL that Marty now owns. They pulled it and went back to a more standard system just recently.Not sure why. I will ping Will and Marty and ask.
 
Laverdalothar said:
Cam, disappointment is always a result of a mismatch between expectation and outcome.
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Nice bit of philosophy Lothar, but no disappointment here. I don't have an M-Unit to disappoint me  :D

Just pointing out its deficiencies in the Laverda context. You're absolutely right that it's the wrong product for classic bike re-wiring.

padlock said:
... will be no indicators, no back brake light ...
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Are those items not required by MOT?

I reckon I'd be nervous riding in traffic without indicators or brake light. Car drivers are all too likely to mow us down anyway. You don't want to give them any more excuses for not seeing us.
 
All this talk about wiring and trick M-units, I can't see the point when the wiring diagram I used for the Motodd was basic as. So simple that even I could make sense of it.
4 relays plus starter relay. All the wires that go to the steering head fitted into a sheath 12mm dia.
This M-unit sounds like a problem waiting to happen. From my experience, technology can't always be an improvement.
 
motoddrob said:
So simple that even I could make sense of it.
4 relays plus starter relay.
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I bet it's not as simple as the wiring on my RGS mongrel.  :D

I didn't even bother to draw a wiring diagram. I just bolted things on and connected them up. Only relays are the starter and flasher relay. No other relays required because all lighting is low current LED. The horn is a pissy little beeper off a Japanese trail bike that only draws about 1 amp. It's only about 50mm diameter but is surprisingly loud. Its only function is to make the roadworthy guy happy, so it only has to beep once. It's not as if I'll be riding around honking it all the time.
 
I had a look at the M-Unit some time back before rewiring my triple. Tried to work out a wiring diagram so that I could keep the std switches and it started to look like a tangled nightmare so I just bought a new loom off Wolfgang and stuck with the std wiring. The photo of the M-Unit on Red's Motodd thread convinced me I did the right thing.
 
padlock said:
Cam,In the UK a bike registered before April 1986 doesn't  require a brake light at all!!! Or indicators.

  FFF
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Or indeed, lights. It does however, need a horn and a funky little reflector on the back of the bike.

H.
 
padlock said:
I've got an m-unit and m-button, motogadget switch gear and motogadget speedo/rev counter to fit to jenny,will be no indicators, no back brake light and no ignition switch, am hoping that who ever actually builds the loom for me will get it down to about three wires.I may be able to understand it then. :D :D :D :D

  FFF
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Padlock did you do this in the end?
 
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