Anyone tell me the part # for the starter gear stop tab - Series 2 180, RGS, RGA

N

Nick

Full member
This is a small piece of sprung steel that stops the starter gear sliding out. Need it to order the part.

Can this simple part be made out of say a feeler gauge blade cut to size or does it require specialist materials?

Thanks

Nick :-)
 
Nick said:
This is a small piece of sprung steel that stops the starter gear sliding out. Need it to order the part.

Can this simple part be made out of say a feeler gauge blade cut to size or does it require specialist materials?

Thanks

Nick :)
Click to expand...
A diagram might help to understand.
Which starter gear are you talking about?

Paul
 
I've taken up Alan's very generous offer but would still like to know the part # if possible. Those of you who know me might remember I have an RGA and RGS (both worn out and being repaired) and I don't think these little blades (correctly identified by Craig) are in the pile of bits.

I got told Slater's stock is now being sold but you need a part # - sure it'll be easy to get one in Europe but seems like a lot of hassle post Brexit...(no not opening that discussion for sure).

Nick :-)
 
#61 933 400

If you need to resort to making one, you will need to use hardened spring steel, mild steel will wear quickly.

piet
 
I'm not sure how much movement that part has to accomodate, but, saw blades (hacksaw typically, at this scale) are an easily available matrial source for such things. Re-hardened and down-tempered of course.
 
'Re-hardened and down-tempered' is all a bit out of my league but there's always google :-)
Just heard back and the ex-Slater stock doesn't include any. Still have a solution for the Jota and maybe swing past a Laverda specialist when I get back onto the continent so long as covid plays ball. I'm thinking that I could hide a couple of these in a condom to beat Customs although a bit worried about the sharp edges...
Nick :-)
 
Haggis said:
I'm not sure how much movement that part has to accomodate, but, saw blades (hacksaw typically, at this scale) are an easily available matrial source for such things. Re-hardened and down-tempered of course.
Click to expand...
The freewheel stands still most of the time, the blade is to prevent the freewheel to tilt/wander too far off and rub against the starter clutch body. Not reccommended to omit.

piet
 
Nick said:
I've taken up Alan's very generous offer but would still like to know the part # if possible. <snip>
Click to expand...
I think I can manage to do that ...:)

(A 'Very Nice Man', that Alan, btw).

61 933 400.

Described as:
Piastrina spalla mento ingr. ruota lib.

Or, if you prefer:
Plate, free wheel gear spindle.

And all illustrated on parts book page. 'Albero Motore- Crankshaft'.
 
Bizarrely today I have found that mine is also broken on my RGS and I need a replacement. If anyone knows where to find one please let me know.
 
Haggis said:
I'm not sure how much movement that part has to accomodate, but, saw blades (hacksaw typically, at this scale) are an easily available matrial source for such things. Re-hardened and down-tempered of course.
Click to expand...
You got me thinking about this. A thick blade from a set of feeler gauges would do quite well. Carbon steel not stainless.
 

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You could also use a hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off - i use industrial hacksaw blades and demolition saw blades sharpened and teeth ground off as scrapers and wedges.
 
Most hacksaw blades (for hand hacksaws) these days only have the toothed edge hardened. The back half of the blade is left ductile as a safety measure to prevent blade breakages - so the blade doesn't snap in half and poke a hole through the veins in your wrist. Try breaking a hacksaw blade and you'll see what I mean. It'll only snap half way through.

You'd have to apply a heat treatment to harden the whole blade if you want to make a springy thing out of it. You'll probably have to anneal it to drill the hole, so will have to re-harden it anyway.

There's plenty of steel annealing/hardening recipes on internet.
 
Personally, if I was remaking a part like that, I think I would look at using a much bigger piece of material, so it would last longer.
That original tab looks like something created quickly to fix a problem that hadn’t been envisaged originally.
 
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