best temporary bodge for stripped engine case thread?

[GregT]

Upside down, clean off with solvent, warm with heat gun, apply thin bead of 5 minute epoxy along seam.

Not a "nice" or "good engineering" bodge - but used at a couple of race meetings successfully.
The thin paper gasket is similar to late Ducatis. Doing them, I use no gasket, thin coat of threebond and reset shaft endfloats.

 

[Andy]

Could you loosen the cases without splitting them? Then carefully squeeze in a very thin bead of dreaded silicone before retightening.

 

[breganzane]

Take it apart and fix it properly. Four days have already passed trying unsucessfully to bodge it. I don't know the details, but this sort of thing is generally much more of a mental leap than a physical one. Something like this that has been recently built up and has a specific issue that's pretty easy to fix are usually pretty quick and easy to do since you've solved all the problems and learnt the tricks (bar one...) on the initial build.
I was going to suggest this 4 days ago but held back as I didn't want to be that negative keyboard warrior saying nothing will work. Strip it, repair the thread properly, threebond it and reassemble - potentially easily done in a day on such a simple little jigger?

 

[piranha-bro2]

Have to agree Steve. I took a chance that the used R1 blue spot calipers I've fitted to the Q would be OK, so I fitted, them, bled them and discovered that they bind on lever release. Having put years and thousands of hours into this bike it seemed absurd not to go that one extra step and rebuild. Off they came, new seal kits, bled them up yesterday, problem solved and now have brakes to match the rest of the build - as, or better, than new.

Your work is too beautiful to compromise at this late stage, Paul.

 

[Paul LeClair]

Take it apart and fix it properly. Four days have already passed trying unsucessfully to bodge it. I don't know the details, but this sort of thing is generally much more of a mental leap than a physical one. Something like this that has been recently built up and has a specific issue that's pretty easy to fix are usually pretty quick and easy to do since you've solved all the problems and learnt the tricks (bar one...) on the initial build.
I was going to suggest this 4 days ago but held back as I didn't want to be that negative keyboard warrior saying nothing will work. Strip it, repair the thread properly, threebond it and reassemble - potentially easily done in a day on such a simple little jigger?

bloody hell Steve....... to be honest the real issue is I am still in physio from the Kawasaki H2 landing on me when it fell off the trailer in Nelson several weeks ago, I still am too banged up to ride a motorcycle, and tackling engine removal and case splitting of the Gilera engine is sadly likely physically beyond me at the moment without hurting myself further.

The brand new Mikuni VM 18 carb just arrived from Sudco with a large selection of jets and needles, I want to move on the fitting and jetting the new carb, but I have another priority at the moment. I have a track day coming up on July 7 at our brand new fancy just opened new local track. I am not going to futz around right now with pulling and splitting the Gilera motor with a buggered up back and banged up knee while I am still hoping to be able to run the supercharged H2 on the track July 7........ I want to able to do the track day and hopefully not lose my $575 pre payment. On that note, the track day organizers just notified me by email that they have imposed a top speed limit on everyone for the track day due to the mix of bikes and rider experience levels, and are expressing particular concern about my modified and derestricted H2 with the warning they will ban me from any future track days if I exceed their imposed limit, double bloody hell.....

I will fix the Gilera properly once I heal enough to do so, I am just looking for a temporary bodge for the oil leak so I can continue to dial the bike in and especially get the carb setup in the ball park.

 

[Vince]

Track day speed limit is that an oxymoron, I would have thought that equalled the braking limit on turn one give or take. Are there blokes in the right line of work? BTW what's their number and how are they checking that beyond any rider's self-preservation inbuilt by their nature. Speed camera on the straight So no exceeding 450kph or your OUT. Do they not have groups set by experience, that's how it works here. How much faster would it go compared to the local hot shot on an R1 etc. Both still need to slow for the same bends

 

[Paul Marx]

Track day speed limit is that an oxymoron, I would have thought that equalled the braking limit on turn one give or take. Are there blokes in the right line of work? BTW what's their number and how are they checking that beyond any rider's self-preservation inbuilt by their nature. Speed camera on the straight So no exceeding 450kph or your OUT. Do they not have groups set by experience, that's how it works here. How much faster would it go compared to the local hot shot on an R1 etc. Both still need to slow for the same bends

That is grossly over estimating the capacity of self control of number of our fellow humans.
Some people have a disconnection between self preservation and reality.
Just look at our roads any time.

Paul

 

[Paul Marx]

Paul,
Maybe your priority should be taking it easy rather than stripped threads and track days?
There comes a time when one has to accept one's limitations and move on.
Paul

 

[Vince]

But a track has a finite dimension as opposed to a random road. You absolutely know there is a particular bend after the straight, it's still there every lap, and so is the gravel trap. I was watching a Doco about why Drag racing went from 1/4 mile to 1000ft cause the Top Fuel blokes were breaking apart with the speeds being done so I guess they're transferring that ruling, to track days but it still seems odd to me.

 

[Paul Marx]

But a track has a finite dimension as opposed to a random road. You absolutely know there is a particular bend after the straight, it's still there every lap, and so is the gravel trap. I was watching a Doco about why Drag racing went from 1/4 mile to 1000ft cause the Top Fuel blokes were breaking apart with the speeds being done so I guess they're transferring that ruling, to track days but it still seems odd to me.

You know, some others don't. The track has a finite dimension, not the other riders capabilities. That bend is full of slower riders.
And it's the organisers responsibility and insurance budget.
A track day isn't a race for competition license holders. Nor is it a cheap training session for seasoned racers. mixed with novice track riders. That's a killer.
It's just a merry go round.

Paul

 

[breganzane]

I will fix the Gilera properly once I heal enough to do so, I am just looking for a temporary bodge for the oil leak so I can continue to dial the bike in and especially get the carb setup in the ball park.

Understood Paul, that's what I was alluding to in not knowing the details. Having experienced first hand how extremely well prepared all your bikes and cars are it did seem odd you weren't just ripping into it. I will thus propose another temporary solution which is perfectly attuned to your temporarily limited state.... Just keep topping the little bastard up with oil!

Heal up mate, hope you're in better shape soon.

 

[AJ]

Understood Paul, that's what I was alluding to in not knowing the details. Having experienced first hand how extremely well prepared all your bikes and cars are it did seem odd you weren't just ripping into it. I will thus propose another temporary solution which is perfectly attuned to your temporarily limited state.... Just keep topping the little bastard up with oil!

Heal up mate, hope you're in better shape soon.

Years ago a friend spent months trying to make his pre unit Triumph oil tight. He finally gave up and build a really tidy discrete little drip tray with absorbent mat under the problem area!

 

[iis_iis]

Cam, few replies back, indeed bottom out hydraulic pressure was allowed for, in bespoke fastener overall length, copper coat sparingly applied, well used factory thread depth part section, was diametrically challenged, yes cardboard mimic board used for the differing length fasteners, about 3 out of the total on the primary case threads. Hydraulic function in removing broken fasteners is a useful technique, not all is bad in the world, wry smile here. You do well in your abilities and broad knowledge j.

 

[iis_iis]

Years ago a friend spent months trying to make his pre unit Triumph oil tight. He finally gave up and build a really tidy discrete little drip tray with absobent mat under the problem area!

Seen flat tank Rudge race bikes with that, tray and carpet.... better them than me, wind born oil on the back wheel....shudder..

 

[GregT]

Seen flat tank Rudge race bikes with that, tray and carpet.... better them than me, wind born oil on the back wheel....shudder..

Kids stuff. My first roadrace bike - B33 in a longstroke Manx roller - was so bad the old man coined the phrase "Lubricated by external splash"
A new piston - without the melts down the side - did cure it. Learned a bit about thermodynamics from that engine.

 

[martymoose]

Under tray with carpet/foam mandatory at some tracks? I remember Ian having to fit a "nappy" to monty

 

[Tippie]

Under-tray mandatory here but not absorbent in it. It sounds like Paul's bike has more leak than that would contain on the event he is entering.

 

[Paul LeClair]

Take it apart and fix it properly. Four days have already passed trying unsucessfully to bodge it. I don't know the details, but this sort of thing is generally much more of a mental leap than a physical one. Something like this that has been recently built up and has a specific issue that's pretty easy to fix are usually pretty quick and easy to do since you've solved all the problems and learnt the tricks (bar one...) on the initial build.
I was going to suggest this 4 days ago but held back as I didn't want to be that negative keyboard warrior saying nothing will work. Strip it, repair the thread properly, threebond it and reassemble - potentially easily done in a day on such a simple little jigger?

Hi Steve B

you called it...... roughly three hours tonight to engine out and cases split. Going to Keen Sert https://macrosfastening.com/keenserts/ all of the threaded holes in the split cases. Bearing pulled out of the case on the transmission shaft, going to pick up a new bearing "while I am at it", the kick start internal spring also broke which I will have to source.

I bought the case sealer goop specific for split cases. I also got a new engine gasket set. The split case gasket is bloody thin paper. I am wondering whether it is even worth using together with the case sealer goop, or just skip the gasket altogether and just slather on the goop. Thoughts or opinions?

Also interesting, of the 4 engine mounting threaded rods, two of them had broken while I was test riding the bike, the nuts snapped right off threads and all. Going to pick up round stock and thread up four new engine mounting rods. While exhaust is off I am going to weld in an O2 bung so I can use my Innovate LM2 https://innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php to finish jetting the new Mikuni VM 18 using real air/fuel ratio info when the engine goes back in.

I really really did not want to pull and split the engine, but it has to be fixed correctly. I still can't ride due to back issues from the Kawasaki H2 SX SE pinning me to the ground in Nelson. BC, still going to physio, so I am using what should be riding time to fix stuff..... just did a ton of work on the 94 Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic that I had been putting off for about two years

 

[Paul LeClair]

more engine photos

 

[GregT]

Being dead correct, you should do a trial assembly without the gasket - dry - and check the gearbox functions correctly. Losing only a small amount of endfloat can sometimes bind the lot up. If it's looking good, just the sealant, no gasket.